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I had all of these at one time.

Not a problem here.

How are any of these claims quantifiable?

Did any of the threads from back in 22 have back to back dyno charts, or was it all butt dyno results?

What's 100Kg of rams?

Today I learned that the Mach 1 box and the one in my GT have similar ratios. When tied to the 3:73 torsen you get a wide range of operation allowing you to shift depending on the conditions. Sometimes it's a 3 speed (1-3-5), and sometimes its 4 speed (1-3-4-5). The rest of the time it's a...

That's a great price, but I already have one.

If it was garage kept you could easily do 10 years. I have 11 year old tires on my YJ and they are still soft and crack free. If the car sits outside all the time in the sun then the UV accelerates cross linking causing the tires get hard and crack.

I have the S type AB and FRPP X-pipe. Cold starts are a little loud, and there's some snap, crackle, and pop at lower speeds, but damn it sounds great when you get on it.

If you watch the video there is a lot of compressed time and steps skipped. For instance the car is already on a lift, the wheels are instantaneously removed from the hubs, tools and parts are already in hand, the loctite is already applied to the caliper bolts, nothing got torqued, the wheels...

It sounds like they are not taking into consideration the time savings had by just pulling pins to remove the pads. I have done countless pad replacements on typical caliper brakes, and there's no way I could do all four corners in an hour from pulling out the jack to putting it back.

No. The only thing that comes out is the windshield.

I've had to replace the windshield twice on the GT, and once on the F250, and Safelite did them all. I don't remember it being more than $400 a pop for factory glass. They came to my house and I watched them do an excellent job each time. YMMV

You think you hate the way it looks now, but wait until you install that molding...:crackup:

When the slave cylinder in mine started to go at 20k it was hard to push and the actuation point was almost to the floor. Does the pedal come all the way back up, or is it closer to the floor than normal? If it is, can you put your toes under the pedal and pull it all the way back up?

I wouldn't go more than S-type with long tubes. They're already pretty loud with stock headers and an X-pipe.

This happens on our Mustang and Explorer. Usually a double tap on the seat memory button stops it from trying to overshoot.

The article does not mention what that profit is as a percent of total revenues, which would have less shock value, resulting in fewer clicks. The world oil market can be very complex, and a lot of variables can come into play. The biggest driver now is that pesky old supply and demand...

Surprisingly I did back to back same day dyno runs before and after swapping the OEM resonator for an FRPP X-pipe and there was zero gain. Apparently the OEM unit flows just fine.

I have S-type and an FRPP X-pipe. It is loud when cold, no doubt about it, but it not too loud once hot unless you get on it. The video above is a good representation of the sound.