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Best Rear Suspension Upgrades?

Jcole_14

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I currently have the Steeda ‘IRS Subframe Support’ but I’m looking to replace it by either getting the BMR-CB005 Lockout Kit or the Kelltrac Posi-Loc System (Kelltrac claims the Posi-Loc System essentially performs the same function as the CB005 kit. So either get one or the other I’m assuming?? But, these options both seem to be a very popular and impactful addition to some of the fastest drag cars that still retain the IRS and I’m wanting to see some input on what’s best to do.

below I’ll also attach a list of everything I plan on getting as time goes on but obviously my biggest concern is the subframe movement and what best controls it for a drag racing application.

- BMR Drag Springs SP086
- Ford Perf. Toe Bearing M-5A460-M
- BMR BK081 Rear Lower Control Arm Bearings
- Adjustable Toe Links, Rear BMR-TR005
- *IRS Subframe "Posi-Loc" System*
- *BMR Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit, Level 2 (CB005)*
- Kelltrac Differential Bushing Upgrade Kit, Full Replacement
- BMR Vertical Link (derlin/bearing) TCA046
- BMR Adjustable Camber Links (delrin/bearing) UCA763
- Camber Lockout Kit, Rear BMR-WAK761
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NGOT8R

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I only have one of the BMR parts in your list (camber lockout kit). Everything else on my car is Steeda, however, all of the items in your list look like solid choices. How about upgraded half shafts?
 
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Jcole_14

Jcole_14

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I only have one of the BMR parts in your list (camber lockout kit). Everything else on my car is Steeda, however, all of the items in your list look like solid choices. How about upgraded half shafts?
Haven’t done half shafts yet. Plan on getting GForce axles in the future as well. Haven’t been to the track yet but I’m wanting everything to be setup nicely before going so that’s a top item on my list as well.
 

NGOT8R

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Haven’t done half shafts yet. Plan on getting GForce axles in the future as well. Haven’t been to the track yet but I’m wanting everything to be setup nicely before going so that’s a top item on my list as well.
Oh okay. I’m in the process of setting mine up for street/strip as well. I’ve been on jack stands for about 2 1/2 months now, waiting on ARP wheel studs.

Are you manual or auto and does BMR make something similar to Steeda’s differential bracket kit?

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NGOT8R

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I suggest doing your half shaft upgrade and wheel studs while you’re back there doing the RLCA bearings and other mods. You’ll already be more than half way there at that point.
 

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Jcole_14

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Oh okay. I’m in the process of setting mine up for street/strip as well. I’ve been on jack stands for about 2 1/2 months now, waiting on ARP wheel studs.

Are you manual or auto and does BMR make something similar to Steeda’s differential bracket kit?

1649454022804.jpeg
I’m an auto. But eventually I’d like to get an iron differential over the factory aluminum diff. to prevent snapping and add reassurance. Not sure about BMR making a diff bracket but I do know a centrifugal TH400 car who’s been 7’s using the Steeda differential bracket which I plan on getting for safety down the lane so I wouldn’t worry about branding on that.
 
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Jcole_14

Jcole_14

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I suggest doing your half shaft upgrade and wheel studs while you’re back there doing the RLCA bearings and other mods. You’ll already be more than half way there at that point.
Yeah just more money than I’m willing to spend at the moment so I’m just planning to stay away from the track till I’m comfortable with how the rear is setup. I’m making 750whp currently and I’m very positive I would break something immediately trying to go down the strip where I’m at now lol.
 

NGOT8R

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Yeah just more money than I’m willing to spend at the moment so I’m just planning to stay away from the track till I’m comfortable with how the rear is setup. I’m making 750whp currently and I’m very positive I would break something immediately trying to go down the strip where I’m at now lol.
I agree with you there. Setting up a rear suspension with all of the available goodies is super expensive. I didn’t do the half shafts on my first round of rear suspension mods. I was trying to convince myself that I’d be able to get by on the factory half shafts, but after careful consideration, I circled back and put in the Ford Performance shafts.
 
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Jcole_14

Jcole_14

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I agree with you there. Setting up a rear suspension with all of the available goodies is super expensive. I didn’t do the half shafts on my first round of rear suspension mods. I was trying to convince myself that I’d be able to get by on the factory half shafts, but after careful consideration, I circled back and put in the Ford Performance shafts.
Yup. After suspension and half shafts I’ll just have to worry about
I agree with you there. Setting up a rear suspension with all of the available goodies is super expensive. I didn’t do the half shafts on my first round of rear suspension mods. I was trying to convince myself that I’d be able to get by on the factory half shafts, but after careful consideration, I circled back and put in the Ford Performance shafts.
yeah lol it is very expensive but I just plan on chipping away at it all slowly.
 

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I suggest doing your half shaft upgrade and wheel studs while you’re back there doing the RLCA bearings and other mods. You’ll already be more than half way there at that point.

What breaks wheel studs? One needs stronger wheel studs with more power ? So I would need to replace the lug nuts too?
 

NGOT8R

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What breaks wheel studs? One needs stronger wheel studs with more power ? So I would need to replace the lug nuts too?
They could break from under torquing/over torquing the lug nuts, or lots of power, just to name a couple.

I don’t have them on my car, but it was t for lack of trying to purchase some. I actually had an order in with Steeda for some that exceeded 90 days. I eventually cancelled the order and pressed my factory studs back into the hubs (had removed them in anticipation of receiving the ARP studs from Steeda). I ended up making a call to ARP myself to check on availability and even they couldn’t give me a definite eta as to when they would be available.

With my Hitmaster Clutch Hit Control System, it greatly reduces driveline shock which will help prevent drivetrain parts breakage, so I may not need studs after all. It never hurts to run them though If you’re,doing any kind of racing.

Open face lug nuts can be supplied with or available through your many aftermarket wheel manufacturers
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