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Decrease tramlining! Steeda G Brace works!

MAV

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I built my own out of some scrap steel laying around the shop. I also went with a different mounting system than the Steeda brace. I felt like two bolts on each side would help keep the brace from rotating around the single bolt mounting position, although a flush mounting to the side of the brace probably mitigates that anyway.

I can tell a difference in tramlining, although it's not 100% cured, it is better. Car seems more solid in corners, but that may be psychological more than anything since the car is nearly perfect as is. Here are some pics:
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Mike02z

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I built my own out of some scrap steel laying around the shop. I also went with a different mounting system than the Steeda brace. I felt like two bolts on each side would help keep the brace from rotating around the single bolt mounting position, although a flush mounting to the side of the brace probably mitigates that anyway.

I can tell a difference in tramlining, although it's not 100% cured, it is better. Car seems more solid in corners, but that may be psychological more than anything since the car is nearly perfect as is. Here are some pics:
Curious on how you mounted this with the extra holes. Did you drill through the sub frame? If so, what did you use to re enforce the holes? I assume you realize you need a sleeve inside the sub frame for these bolts to go through. Without them, you can damage the sub frame. Or so I've been told.
 

MAV

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There are two holes in the top of the subframe that I used with short bolts through the mounts on the brace. The spacers/sleeves are only needed if you're mounting in the rear hole that goes all the way through the subframe. Without the spacer, you could crush the subframe when tightening the bolt.

Feeding the washers/nuts into the subframe through the larger hole in the front was a bit of a challenge, but once started, I was able to get a wrench in there to hold them while I tightened the bolts from the top.
 

torque124

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.. tramlining is caused exclusively by wheel alignment and tires..... This car comes with aggressive alignment for track, and big tires.. Don't spend money on stuff and make your car heavier.
just my 2 cents
 

MAV

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And yet, at least two people have reported that this brace helps with tramlining.
 

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bmailpb

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.. tramlining is caused exclusively by wheel alignment and tires..... This car comes with aggressive alignment for track, and big tires.. Don't spend money on stuff and make your car heavier.
just my 2 cents
Tramlining is exacerbated by alignment and tires, but not caused exclusively by them. Another contributing factor is looseness in the suspension. In the case of the GT350, that comes in the form of front subframe flex. So, by adding this brace, you eliminate one of the factors, which helps to alleviate the issue. Now, go back into your troll hole.
 

torque124

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Tramlining is exacerbated by alignment and tires, but not caused exclusively by them. Another contributing factor is looseness in the suspension. In the case of the GT350, that comes in the form of front subframe flex. So, by adding this brace, you eliminate one of the factors, which helps to alleviate the issue. Now, go back into your troll hole.
But... but... I just got out...

 

Zitrosounds

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And yet, at least two people have reported that this brace helps with tramlining.
A whole two individuals? What a revelation!!!! ; )
 

Hughespj47

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I just read this whole thread, and concluded that for the $$, this is worth a try. I just ordered the bar and clutch spring from Steeda. Where I live in the Rockies, the ruts in our roads are probably over an inch deep. When I make a left turn onto the road, the car bounces over the ruts (so does my MINI). Although I'm not complaining about the tramlining, it is so bad that I've almost been thrust into the next lane. If the bar helps at all, I consider it a win. Also, I'll be tracking it again in a couple of weeks and would like to see if it makes a difference.
 

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I actually installed mine today. It was time for my first oil change, so I figured it was a perfect time. Real nice fit and finish. Easy install. The longest time was clearing out the factory rails. Since they stamp the holes into them, there are the blanks still left hanging in the hole and block the supplied hardware. I will see if it feels any different now and report back later.
 

Blue Raptor

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Went on a spirited 60 mile run this morning. In all honesty, I can't tell a difference, but I'm not a professional race car driver and I didn't expect a world of difference. At the end of the day, it was $70 and simple to install, so I got no complaints. :cheers:
 
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DrumReaper

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Went on a spirited 60 mile run this morning. In all honesty, I can't tell a difference, but I'm not a professional race car driver and I didn't expect a world of difference. At the end of the day, it was $70 and simple to install, so I got no complaints. :cheers:
Thanks for the honest eval man. I figured since the regular 350 has less tramlining that it wouldn't make as big a difference unless you have the R-spec wheels.
 

icormba

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Went on a spirited 60 mile run this morning. In all honesty, I can't tell a difference, but I'm not a professional race car driver and I didn't expect a world of difference. At the end of the day, it was $70 and simple to install, so I got no complaints. :cheers:
Thanks for the honest eval man. I figured since the regular 350 has less tramlining that it wouldn't make as big a difference unless you have the R-spec wheels.
I never noticed any tramlining until I switched to R-spec wheels and R-spec Cup 2's. I'll be up for the $70 test. :)
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