Built engine feedback

[EcoSwag1990]

So not too feed into all the hysteria with the blown engines, but I've been thinking about whether I want to go with the 2018 GT or build my engine and keep this car for another 5yrs.

I know there are a good few companies offering upgraded internals for us now and at least a few ppl on here who have gone that route. I just want to hear some feedback on how that experience has been and how does it impact driveability and routine maintenance.

I'm not really planning on shooting for huge numbers, but I'd rather spend the money on building the engine than buying a new one. Is MAP the most economical option so far?

I see LMS has rods and pistons, would upgrading those be sufficient for someone just looking to make 350whp and keep it pushing for the next 5yrs?

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[marjen]

I looked into it when mine went. I was told there is more maintenance involved with a built motor. Seeing how I drive I ton of miles I was a little concerned about long term reliability. But thats just me.

 

[Sup3rPat]

So not too feed into all the hysteria with the blown engines, but I've been thinking about whether I want to go with the 2018 GT or build my engine and keep this car for another 5yrs.

I know there are a good few companies offering upgraded internals for us now and at least a few ppl on here who have gone that route. I just want to hear some feedback on how that experience has been and how does it impact driveability and routine maintenance.

I'm not really planning on shooting for huge numbers, but I'd rather spend the money on building the engine than buying a new one. Is MAP the most economical option so far?

I see LMS has rods and pistons, would upgrading those be sufficient for someone just looking to make 350whp and keep it pushing for the next 5yrs?

No, currently CNC Werx is, less than 4k for short block with H beams

 

[Fast64ranchero]

I'm having one built now, should have it very shortly, I'll be more then happy to report back on it later. I can tell you I got quotes from MAP, FFTec, ask for quote from CP-E (they never got back with me)?? After talking to people and researching, reviewing quotes and time frames to get it built. I went with a very well known person to make it happen. can't wait to see what it will do with my new Vargas stage 2 turbo. The thing should be a really fun car.
On anther note, You guys saying a built motor requires more maintenance, and don't last. (early roller cam 5.0's had fordged pistons and went 200k plus) just has to be proper alloy, clearance, and machining.

 

[jbailer]

So not too feed into all the hysteria with the blown engines, but I've been thinking about whether I want to go with the 2018 GT or build my engine and keep this car for another 5yrs.

I know there are a good few companies offering upgraded internals for us now and at least a few ppl on here who have gone that route. I just want to hear some feedback on how that experience has been and how does it impact driveability and routine maintenance.

I'm not really planning on shooting for huge numbers, but I'd rather spend the money on building the engine than buying a new one. Is MAP the most economical option so far?

I see LMS has rods and pistons, would upgrading those be sufficient for someone just looking to make 350whp and keep it pushing for the next 5yrs?

My concern is we still don't really know what is causing the engines to blow. While building the bottom end may provide twice the strength of the stock components, knock/pre-ignition can result in more than 5 times the normal pressure on those parts. While it may be more forgiving, even a built motor isn't bullet proof.

They may find the problem is something in the fuel delivery or computer, maybe even in the oiling system. Until we know why they are blowing, it's hard to create a good path forward. If you engine blows today, why would the engine you put in it tomorrow be any different if you didn't change anything.

INSANITY: Doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. - Albert Einstein

 

[04SloSnake]

I'm pretty sure we know exactly what is causing the damage. A snapped rod windowing your block is pretty easy to diagnose.

 

[jbailer]

I'm pretty sure we know exactly what is causing the damage. A snapped rod windowing your block is pretty easy to diagnose.

LOL, you think the rod is just giving up for no reason? There is something causing it. We don't know the cause.

 

[04SloSnake]

I would say the rod is insufficient for the use. Now if only there was a replacement for the inferior product...

Education is key. Look specifically at post 11. I'm not saying this is the only solution but it is more in line with the topic than more hysteria.

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12744

 

[Edkiefer]

While I bet the rods are not race quality , I think its combination of few things and if they happen all same time, well not good.
We know early PCV was letting higher amounts of oil to get into combustion.
This with a surge of boost (maybe don't even need high boost), you can't compress a fluid and the lowering of octane because of oil adds to the knock.

I think what happens is Pistons blow first, then rod, though its hard to say w/o detail inspection, and even then with the pistons exploding ,there not much left to see there.
Things I would do is stronger rods/pistons with higher tension rings.
Block with support added around liners and crank, cam, harmonic balancer pinned .
Might as well think about balance shaft delete too.

Make sure whoever does honing on block they got a good top clamp block to keep whole block and liner in compression like it would be when assembled.

 

[jbailer]

I would say the rod is insufficient for the use. Now if only there was a replacement for the inferior product...

Education is key. Look specifically at post 11. I'm not saying this is the only solution but it is more in line with the topic than more hysteria.

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12744

Yeah, all that is fine under normal conditions. Like I said, a built block is great for a normal increase in power over stock but if there is a problem with pre-ignition, that is a entirely different story as it is typically more than 5 times the normal pressure on the rotating assembly. A built block may be a little more forgiving but it won't hold up against pre-ignition either. Get a block builder to tell you it will... Of course they will take this opportunity to promote built blocks because for people that don't understand it, they think it is the answer to the problem. The problem is, we don't even know the cause yet to the problem so how can you solve it? The answer is NOT a built block...

 

[Damndave]

Adam mentioned something about a big turbo is actually better for the engine and puts less stress on it, sounds like that's the way to go

 

[dragonacc]

Combine LSPI with weak rods and you'll get in trouble quick. A bigger turbo isn't likely to see LSPI so that's one avenue. Don't know of any big turbo failures yet.

 

[paullyd210]

Adam mentioned something about a big turbo is actually better for the engine and puts less stress on it, sounds like that's the way to go

THIS ^

Some people may not know this but when Adam tunes a stock turbo he moves the power curve to the right which is awesome, less stress at lower rpm's something he's been doing since the beginning which is similar to a bigger turbo since they take longer to spool I remember him explaining this early on in the game and was actually really influential on my decision to switch to his tuning once I saw a dyno graph of my old tuner- Bama. I have always had longevity in the back of my mind

Here is the old dyno graph of a bama tune vs tune+ With already pushing the limits of the stock turbo on a stock block you tell me which one you'd rather have. Not posting this to explain gains just to show the power curves my car has changed since then also this is done on a mustang dyno which reads on average 10-13% lower than a dynojet

I know there's a lot of contributing factors to these engines going kaboom but nonetheless I think this is extremely important so I would personally go with a bigger turbo first unless one is looking to make more than 450 to the wheels then I would go in the reverse order

 

[jbailer]

THIS ^

Some people may not know this but when Adam tunes a stock turbo he moves the power curve to the right which is awesome, less stress at lower rpm's something he's been doing since the beginning which is similar to a bigger turbo since they take longer to spool I remember him explaining this early on in the game and was actually really influential on my decision to switch to his tuning once I saw a dyno graph of my old tuner- Bama. I have always had longevity in the back of my mind

Here is the old dyno graph of a bama tune vs tune+ With already pushing the limits of the stock turbo on a stock block you tell me which one you'd rather have. Not posting this to explain gains just to show the power curves my car has changed since then also this is done on a mustang dyno which reads on average 10-13% lower than a dynojet

I know there's a lot of contributing factors to these engines going kaboom but nonetheless I think this is extremely important

Exactly! Same here. I feel safer running Adams tune than I do stock.

 

[Joe_Stang]

THIS ^

Some people may not know this but when Adam tunes a stock turbo he moves the power curve to the right which is awesome, less stress at lower rpm's something he's been doing since the beginning which is similar to a bigger turbo since they take longer to spool I remember him explaining this early on in the game and was actually really influential on my decision to switch to his tuning once I saw a dyno graph of my old tuner- Bama. I have always had longevity in the back of my mind

Here is the old dyno graph of a bama tune vs tune+ With already pushing the limits of the stock turbo on a stock block you tell me which one you'd rather have. Not posting this to explain gains just to show the power curves my car has changed since then also this is done on a mustang dyno which reads on average 10-13% lower than a dynojet

I know there's a lot of contributing factors to these engines going kaboom but nonetheless I think this is extremely important so I would personally go with a bigger turbo first unless one is looking to make more than 450 to the wheels then I would go in the reverse order

I'm with you I do believe this stock turbo is the main cause of them blowing up...it spools very fast and all that torque coming on fast down low is really pounding the engine lol. I remember Anthony@htm once said those of us on stock turbos are on borrowed time. That is why I am upgrading.

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