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Wrench light on, cold start.

ORRadtech

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I’m coming up on 60k miles. Is it a possibility it’s for the 60k service interval?
No, I don't think so. Mine's at 106k and it never gave any notice of recommend service intervals.
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Metz3020827

Metz3020827

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Those are not the only two options. Most decent scan tools will work as well. My $400 scan tool will, an has, identified codes triggered by the wrench light.
Also, I think it's unlikely a dealer, or shop, would do a diag for free. Most will forgive the diag fee if you let them do the work though.
What scan tool do you have?
 

K4fxd

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My $400 scan tool will, an has, identified codes triggered by the wrench light.

I would only pay 400 for a scan tool if I was actively working on several brands. But if I were doing this I'd get something pro level.

Forscan is 50, IDS is free if you have a buddy at Ford or a cool service manager, or a local garage that wants your business.
 

Ehdrian

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For what it's worth, I'm experiencing something similar with my 2015 GT. Randomly, every few days or so, the wrench comes on shortly after starting the car and driving - which also throws it into limp mode. Forscan tells me it's something to do with the ABS. But it just goes away on a restart for a few days.
 

ORRadtech

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I would only pay 400 for a scan tool if I was actively working on several brands. But if I were doing this I'd get something pro level.

Forscan is 50, IDS is free if you have a buddy at Ford or a cool service manager, or a local garage that wants your business.
I do work on several different brands. What I have works fine for me without spending 3-4 times as much and no annual fees of a "pro" level tool.
If you've got a mechanic friend it's worth asking.
 

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MAGS1

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I do work on several different brands. What I have works fine for me without spending 3-4 times as much and no annual fees of a "pro" level tool.
If you've got a mechanic friend it's worth asking.
Yeah I have yet to see a dealer do a diag for free. My dealer charges anywhere from $75-$150 for diag (depends on what the described issue is) but will put it towards the total bill if they do the work.
 

K4fxd

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Yeah I have yet to see a dealer do a diag for free.
Times have changed for sure.
What I have works fine for me without spending 3-4 times as much and no annual fees of a "pro" level tool.
As long as it will do live testing, like cycle valves bleed brakes ect....
 

ORRadtech

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What scan tool do you have?
I'm not home to check the specific one I have. But, really, it doesn't matter
It's 3 or 4 years old now and the new ones will have more updates. Just do a little bit of research and see what might be for you. Autell is generally considered a good brand but there are others as well. Amazon almost always has some on sale and Black Friday is coming so you should be able to get some good deals.
 

AZ_Ryan

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I replaced my battery probably like a year and a half ago? It’s getting pretty cold here now in AZ (cold for here) it was so weird. Has me worried
Do you park outside? My bet is the battery was low. Have you checked your voltage?
 

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ORRadtech

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14.2V running is what mine sits at.
In addition to checking the battery have the charging system checked.
 

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What is it supposed to be at?
On my car it varies with temperature. When I first start it on a cold morning, it's around 14.9V but after driving it for awhile with everything heated up (or in the summer) it'll be perhaps 14.2V or so. Remember that the static battery voltage is 12.6V (2.1V per cell) so 12.8V is barely above that threshold so it's not being charged.
 
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Metz3020827

Metz3020827

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On my car it varies with temperature. When I first start it on a cold morning, it's around 14.9V but after driving it for awhile with everything heated up (or in the summer) it'll be perhaps 14.2V or so. Remember that the static battery voltage is 12.6V (2.1V per cell) so 12.8V is barely above that threshold so it's not being charged.
IMG_8913.webp

This is when I started it a little earlier.
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