stangman638
Well-Known Member
Then it wasn't fixed. The problem needs to be addressed in all new engines moving forward -- than a new block fixes the problem.What if after new short/long block the tick reappears..
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Then it wasn't fixed. The problem needs to be addressed in all new engines moving forward -- than a new block fixes the problem.What if after new short/long block the tick reappears..
Lol. Good luck...Then it wasn't fixed. The problem needs to be addressed in all new engines moving forward -- than a new block fixes the problem.
Stangmode's engine definitely has the BBQ tick. Listen to his latest video's, engine has the random metallic tick (it's loud).As I sit and think about what's going on, I can't help but wonder if the "Tick" simply can't be fixed. There are certainly some people who have had scored cylinders, and even some rod bearing failures. But really, not that many. Now some guys are saying the tick is caused by sloppy wrist pins. OK, I'll buy that for a bit.
Yet, as I myself have thoroughly checked my oil filters and filtered my used oil, I find nothing out of the ordinary. Yet, the tick persists. From what I understand the overwhelming majority of people with this tick who have taken it in for this problem have also repeatedly had everything checked out, and nothing abnormal was found.
In fact many cars are ticking right off the lot. So what do you do, when they say it's normal? Especially when most of them will go silent after running the engines hard for several minutes?
I asked everyone here with this issue to do a simple 3,500rpm run test and report results in one thread, but no one on here seems interested in that, so I'll just leave it at that.
What I mean is, what if more consideration was taken into running the engines hard at high rpm, and less consideration for super smooth and quiet operation at low load?
What if the increase in piston diameter and bore size has accentuated this issue more so than the 2015-2017 models?
As an engine does break in, and some tolerances open up as expected, then maybe this tick is simply the result of an engine that's meant to run at higher performance levels.
Think of it like this. If this particular new design starts to open up tolerances as it breaks in, then those tolerances will close properly and become smoother and quieter when it's run very hard. When this new piston/cylinder design cools back to normal operating temp, those tolerances simply open up and start ticking more.
The opposite problem may occur. And that is, if the engine was designed with even closer tolerances to run at low load conditions and be silent, then maybe it would eat itself when everything expands at high temp and high load.
I watched some videos of that younger fella on YouTube, Stangmode. When he got his car, the first thing he did was a 7,000rpm burnout in the parking lot, and that guy has beaten the cr@p out of that car every weekend at the drag strip since. Yet, apparently his engine has no ticks.
Maybe he had a tick at the very beginning, and from all the psychotic abuse, it just went away fairly quickly before he even noticed it. All this happened last year of course, because he was one of the first people to get the 2018 GT. The amount of abuse he gave that car in the first 2 months by January 2018, is more than most of us would abuse our cars in two or three years.
Maybe this tick will actually slowly subside as the engines get closer to 100,000 miles of normal use. We just don't know.
The only other option I can think of with my car, is it's a timing issue, and not even a piston or bearing issue. If there is just the slightest problem with a cam sensor signal or other inputs, it would cause very small knocking that may be so slight and intermittent that it won't be compensated for, or enough to throw a code. I think it may have been what happened with 50h silvers car. Not sure what else his issue is, but I think the ECU in his car has got something seriously wrong with it. Especially after two more sensors supposedly went bad a couple days later.
Any thoughts on all this?
I'm fully willing to accept the fact that this may be some inherent design characteristic. In my case, I've had it for almost 3,000 miles, and haven't found anything in my oil to indicate that the engine is eating itself.In what book is it written an engine shouldn't tick, if everything else Is fine? maybe your all wrong for worrying about something that's normal? are u reading a 1986 chilton or a 2018 chilton? this is the mustang version of the emperors new clothes
Thank you accel.here's 11-14 thread on tick. same thing. short block replacements, tick comes back, long blocks... people trading in for 2015 hoping the problem would be fixed.
https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/my-bbq-tick-story-with-a-happy-ending.1069954/
2018+ added rattle on top of it. So so.e 2018+ have tick and rattle, some just one of it.
my other other buddy is on his 5th so beat thatI had gotten the tick after my first oil change, switch out 1000 miles later to 5w40 rotella tick subsided. The last few weeks it had came back its loud and also have the rattle. I've put a beaten on this car last 5 months with the supercharger, a friend mention the dealer fixed his tick with new imrc. I think if the tick really effected the short block from where ever the sound is coming from I would of been one of the first people to grenade this motor. I think I am going to change the oil soon and send out a sample to blackstone labs, the noise is really starting to bother me.
ps: my other buddy had 3 short blocks replaced each and every one of them ticked.
Did he have the motors changed due a tick, or did he blow them from racing and abuse?my other other buddy is on his 5th so beat that
had them replace because of the tick 100% stock motorsDid he have the motors changed due a tick, or did he blow them from racing and abuse?
Another thought on the "typewriter or BBQ" tick...Has anyone actually analyzed the frequency of the tick? At idle, your engine is turning approx. 600 rpm's or 10x per second. If the tick was related to crank rpm, the ticks would be very quick at this frequency. However, the camshafts rotate at 1/2 crank speed or at a 600 rpm idle, only 300 rpm's per minute. This would equate to 5x per second. All the ticking Mustangs I have heard, to my ears, is a lot closer to 5x a second vs 10x per second...Thus indicating a valve train related noise.
The BBQ tick is very random, it doesn't follow any RPM exactly.Another thought on the "typewriter or BBQ" tick...Has anyone actually analyzed the frequency of the tick? At idle, your engine is turning approx. 600 rpm's or 10x per second. If the tick was related to crank rpm, the ticks would be very quick at this frequency. However, the camshafts rotate at 1/2 crank speed or at a 600 rpm idle, only 300 rpm's per minute. This would equate to 5x per second. All the ticking Mustangs I have heard, to my ears, is a lot closer to 5x a second vs 10x per second...Thus indicating a valve train related noise.
I think the younger cats around here did not experience any of the late 60’s through early 70’s solid lift cams with forged pistons. Most drag/circle tracks still have their share of these types of motors. High performance stuff of the high rpm variety (especially American) is not Prius quiet.