Condor1970
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2018
- Threads
- 95
- Messages
- 1,568
- Reaction score
- 576
- Location
- Port Orchard WA
- Vehicle(s)
- 2018 Mustang GT
- Thread starter
- #1
As I sit and think about what's going on, I can't help but wonder if the "Tick" simply can't be fixed. There are certainly some people who have had scored cylinders, and even some rod bearing failures. But really, not that many. Now some guys are saying the tick is caused by sloppy wrist pins. OK, I'll buy that for a bit.
Yet, as I myself have thoroughly checked my oil filters and filtered my used oil, I find nothing out of the ordinary. Yet, the tick persists. From what I understand the overwhelming majority of people with this tick who have taken it in for this problem have also repeatedly had everything checked out, and nothing abnormal was found.
In fact many cars are ticking right off the lot. So what do you do, when they say it's normal? Especially when most of them will go silent after running the engines hard for several minutes?
I asked everyone here with this issue to do a simple 3,500rpm run test and report results in one thread, but no one on here seems interested in that, so I'll just leave it at that.
What I mean is, what if more consideration was taken into running the engines hard at high rpm, and less consideration for super smooth and quiet operation at low load?
What if the increase in piston diameter and bore size has accentuated this issue more so than the 2015-2017 models?
As an engine does break in, and some tolerances open up as expected, then maybe this tick is simply the result of an engine that's meant to run at higher performance levels.
Think of it like this. If this particular new design starts to open up tolerances as it breaks in, then those tolerances will close properly and become smoother and quieter when it's run very hard. When this new piston/cylinder design cools back to normal operating temp, those tolerances simply open up and start ticking more.
The opposite problem may occur. And that is, if the engine was designed with even closer tolerances to run at low load conditions and be silent, then maybe it would eat itself when everything expands at high temp and high load.
I watched some videos of that younger fella on YouTube, Stangmode. When he got his car, the first thing he did was a 7,000rpm burnout in the parking lot, and that guy has beaten the cr@p out of that car every weekend at the drag strip since. Yet, apparently his engine has no ticks.
Maybe he had a tick at the very beginning, and from all the psychotic abuse, it just went away fairly quickly before he even noticed it. All this happened last year of course, because he was one of the first people to get the 2018 GT. The amount of abuse he gave that car in the first 2 months by January 2018, is more than most of us would abuse our cars in two or three years.
Maybe this tick will actually slowly subside as the engines get closer to 100,000 miles of normal use. We just don't know.
The only other option I can think of with my car, is it's a timing issue, and not even a piston or bearing issue. If there is just the slightest problem with a cam sensor signal or other inputs, it would cause very small knocking that may be so slight and intermittent that it won't be compensated for, or enough to throw a code. I think it may have been what happened with 50h silvers car. Not sure what else his issue is, but I think the ECU in his car has got something seriously wrong with it. Especially after two more sensors supposedly went bad a couple days later.
Any thoughts on all this?
Yet, as I myself have thoroughly checked my oil filters and filtered my used oil, I find nothing out of the ordinary. Yet, the tick persists. From what I understand the overwhelming majority of people with this tick who have taken it in for this problem have also repeatedly had everything checked out, and nothing abnormal was found.
In fact many cars are ticking right off the lot. So what do you do, when they say it's normal? Especially when most of them will go silent after running the engines hard for several minutes?
I asked everyone here with this issue to do a simple 3,500rpm run test and report results in one thread, but no one on here seems interested in that, so I'll just leave it at that.
What I mean is, what if more consideration was taken into running the engines hard at high rpm, and less consideration for super smooth and quiet operation at low load?
What if the increase in piston diameter and bore size has accentuated this issue more so than the 2015-2017 models?
As an engine does break in, and some tolerances open up as expected, then maybe this tick is simply the result of an engine that's meant to run at higher performance levels.
Think of it like this. If this particular new design starts to open up tolerances as it breaks in, then those tolerances will close properly and become smoother and quieter when it's run very hard. When this new piston/cylinder design cools back to normal operating temp, those tolerances simply open up and start ticking more.
The opposite problem may occur. And that is, if the engine was designed with even closer tolerances to run at low load conditions and be silent, then maybe it would eat itself when everything expands at high temp and high load.
I watched some videos of that younger fella on YouTube, Stangmode. When he got his car, the first thing he did was a 7,000rpm burnout in the parking lot, and that guy has beaten the cr@p out of that car every weekend at the drag strip since. Yet, apparently his engine has no ticks.
Maybe he had a tick at the very beginning, and from all the psychotic abuse, it just went away fairly quickly before he even noticed it. All this happened last year of course, because he was one of the first people to get the 2018 GT. The amount of abuse he gave that car in the first 2 months by January 2018, is more than most of us would abuse our cars in two or three years.
Maybe this tick will actually slowly subside as the engines get closer to 100,000 miles of normal use. We just don't know.
The only other option I can think of with my car, is it's a timing issue, and not even a piston or bearing issue. If there is just the slightest problem with a cam sensor signal or other inputs, it would cause very small knocking that may be so slight and intermittent that it won't be compensated for, or enough to throw a code. I think it may have been what happened with 50h silvers car. Not sure what else his issue is, but I think the ECU in his car has got something seriously wrong with it. Especially after two more sensors supposedly went bad a couple days later.
Any thoughts on all this?
Sponsored
Last edited:
