I haven't done it yet so I assume you stick a socket on this end? Do we know what size it is? Also, Matt... did you use a deep socket (obviously doesn't need one) but just wondering if I have to purchase another socket or if there is enough room to fit one in with the wrench.
I'd for sure only be using a 6-point socket on that cap nut.... did you use a deep socket (obviously doesn't need one) but just wondering if I have to purchase another socket or if there is enough room to fit one in with the wrench.
I used a 27 mm socket with an extension. Wrench would be tough I think.I haven't done it yet so I assume you stick a socket on this end? Do we know what size it is? Also, Matt... did you use a deep socket (obviously doesn't need one) but just wondering if I have to purchase another socket or if there is enough room to fit one in with the wrench.
I use an SAE 1 1/16” 6 point socket.
I've seen various threads on here where M6G Members have used the Steeda strut tower tool with good results as in the above image.
The one he and I used is designed by Steeda. It's designed to fit the OEM strut nut as a way to guide the cut. Cutting oil is recommended to extend the life of the tool. Once you're done, you'll want to clean the edges and add touchup paint and clear if you got any. Clear isn't necessary tho.
https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-8920-s550-strut-tower-cutting-tool
If it was adhesive then yes that would be a good idea although the OCD in me would notice the line that divides it. I think the OEM solution is to sand the edges which was done, repaint, and clear.
