Weight Reduction for 2020 GT

[In5am0us]

I’m looking to shed some pounds on this car. What are some good things I can do to reduce weight?
2020 401a Mustang GT Premium 10 speed.

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[CBETPTA]

There is a thread on this site for the weight of things. IMO wheels and rear seat delete are probably the easiest and most bang for your $

 

[Hye Power]

The "what things weigh thread." | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com

 

[KingKona]

I’m looking to shed some pounds on this car. What are some good things I can do to reduce weight?
2020 401a Mustang GT Premium 10 speed.

You deliberately bought the heaviest GT, and now want it to be lighter?

Carbon fiber body, wheels, drive shaft, seats, rear seat delete. And yourself. Get on that crack/meth diet.

 

[chuckhammer]

The best weight reduction option for those of us > 45 years old is usually on our bodies.

- You can dump the spare or air pump, whichever your car has.
- Rear seat delete.
- Lithium battery swap.
- Front bumper swap for crash bar.
- Passenger seat delete.
- Carbon fiber hood.
- Drain windshield washer fluid reservoir.
- Active grill shutters delete.
- Rear bumper swap for crash bar.
- Delete all car audio components (speakers, head unit, amps, etc.).
- Delete engine cover and hood liner.
- Delete floor mats.
- Remove all random junk from your glovebox center console, door pockets, cup holders, trunk, etc.
- Delete windshield wipers, linkage, and motor (use RainX).
- Aluminum or carbon fiber driveshaft swap.
- Swap brake rotors for two-piece with aluminum hats.
- Start yanking out cabin and trunk interior trim.
- Delete A/C compressor and related components.
- LIGHTER WHEELS AND TIRES.

I'm probably missing a few things.

 

[RagmopInKona]

How much lighter is the aftermarket front & rear crash bars over the stockers?
I'm partial to the swiss cheese hole saw or dimple die hole lightning of oem already paid for parts unless to get to the a/m part weight takes more work than cost to buy the a/m part.

 

[WD Pro]

How much lighter is the aftermarket front & rear crash bars over the stockers?
I'm partial to the swiss cheese hole saw or dimple die hole lightning of oem already paid for parts unless to get to the a/m part weight takes more work than cost to buy the a/m part.

16.5 lbs :

I had been think of these parts myself, if for nothing else but to get rid of the OE bars that rust for fun …

WD

 

[RagmopInKona]

16.5 lbs :

I had been think of these parts myself, if for nothing else but to get rid of the OE bars that rust for fun …

WD

Too easy to paint the oem part to stop the rust?

 

[HKusp]

Yeah, that rear seat weighs all of about what, 4 pounds? How much does the rear seat delete kit cost and weigh? Change the wheels, change the battery for a lithium unit, drive shaft to carbon fiber, all the superfluous crap in the trunk and interior storage, then remove the passenger seat.

 

[Cory S]

Yeah, that rear seat weighs all of about what, 4 pounds? How much does the rear seat delete kit cost and weigh? Change the wheels, change the battery for a lithium unit, drive shaft to carbon fiber, all the superfluous crap in the trunk and interior storage, then remove the passenger seat.

The back lower bench is 7lbs. The back rests are about 19-20lbs for the 2. Both upper/lower take around a combined total of 10 minutes to remove or replace. Rear seat deletes “kits” are useless I agree.

 

[MrBD1348]

Can also do your runs with less fuel in the tank which can save a few lbs

 

[Cory S]

Can also do your runs with less fuel in the tank which can save a few lbs

Yep. Almost 80lbs difference between 1/4 tank and a completely full tank of gasoline.

 

[WD Pro]

Too easy to paint the oem part to stop the rust?

Something told me your initial question would lead to another ...

The OE part (hidden on a pre facelift / visible on a facelift) has an unsealed / unprotected seam on its top face just behind the grill, which catches any dampness coming through the grill quite nicely.

Corrosion starts working outwards from the seam and because of that, I'm not sure it could ever be truly fixed once it's already started.

I guess a good fix would be a flat back, some rust killer deep into the seam, some seam sealer over the top and then some paint - but the cost of that work (and the time the car was off the road with the front cover off) would start to add up.

At that point I figured a replacement lightweight bar is probably a good alternative.

Same story with the back one but I think that one catches run off from the tail lights that then settles on the top face. Get under your car and look upwards directly above the tailpipes - you will likely see a mint body shell and an aging bumper bar ...

When you consider the replacement bars there are a few advantages (for me) - They are an easy shape to obtain a quality finish (so they should be long lasting), they are a quick fit / turnaround solution, they save some weight, the front one adds some space for potential future mods (intercooler), and the front one also offers a clean look behind the grill (the main thing that's pissing me off at the moment).

Don't think I've just been unlucky with mine starting to rust - although it's defo highlighted by light paint colors, I've seen corrosion on plenty of rebuild / modification threads on here and when you know where to look, I've also seen it on brand new cars still on the forecourt (but stored outside) ...

Judging by the front chassis legs, I think the bumper bars are unfitted for the initial shell prep and paint, then they are bolted on before the colour coat, i.e. they only get a minimal coating of paint (at best), on top of 'poor' initial prep ...

WD

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