Help: 9 Speaker Sound System Upgrade Wiring

[Freedom_Toast]

Hey all, I've attached my planned wiring scheme below. I've been perusing other threads and found an incredible amount of super useful information and I THINK I have everything I need to be able to install my upgraded sound system this weekend, but I'm hoping someone can help out and check my work and help me catch anything I may have missed.

Gear Installing: Hertz 165 components in woofer/tweeter position (disconnecting mids and rears), adding Kenwood XR900-5 amp to power component fronts and JL Audio 8 3V3 subwoofer. I've ordered a AF03 harness connectors with intent to bypass the factory amp entirely. I don't plan to use a DSP since the Rockford Fosgate is the only one remotely in budget, but has a lot of bad reviews. I don't think I actually need one anyway, but hopefully someone will chime in if that's not the case.

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[StangTime]

Hey Paul,

On paper, you've got the flow of the system correct. The diagram really helps show that. In an ideal world, using the Metra speaker cable as your inputs and outputs would be a clever way to connect up 2-way system. However, low-level electrical signals are rather particular and running inputs and outputs within the same wire is likely going to result in some really bad system noise or even feedback. The inputs can pick up the output signals by means of electromagnetic coupling.

To prevent noise pickup, use shielded twisted pairs for the signal inputs. A cheap and easy way is to use computer network cable. I'm not sure you saw my post on this but shielded Cat6 cable and some breakout terminals are perfect for this. Your car has the 9 speaker system I assume as you said you would be disconnecting the midrange drivers in the door. If so, your head unit is sending variable low-level BTL signals out. These are perfect for connecting directly to the inputs of an amplifier using a home-made cable shown below.

I would hook up all lines Front and Rear in case you want to utilize them in the future. Notice how the lines cross over in the middle of the terminal block. This is correct and critical when using the DVR Ethernet Adapters.

Links to the parts:
DVR Ethernet Screw Terminals
Cat6 STP cable
RCA to AV screw terminal adapters
Optional: Wire ferrules and a crimper. Keeps the wires from fraying on the ends.

What it looks like when assembled:

The input side of this cable connects directly to the AF03 harness through the DVR adapter and now you can eliminate the LC2-i line output converter. Less equipment in the signal chain, less noise, less complexity.

Now on to some suggestions. Do you have the Kenwood 5 channel amp already? If not, may I suggest the Hertz HCP-5D instead? Basically the same price but the Hertz is a much better made and performing amp. I run this amplifier in my car and I love it. With a 2ohm JL audio subwoofer, it's more than adequate. The Kenwood has a terrible signal to noise ratio at 78db. The Hertz HCP-5D is 100db. A 22db difference is a lot considering 3db is an audible increase. You can also add a bass knob to the HCP-5D to control the subwoofer level directly.

I hope this information was helpful and if you want to revise your drawing I will gladly review it again.

 

[Freedom_Toast]

One thing I forgot to ask in OP, was about turning everything on. I'm guessing the 'REM IN' signal to the LOC being tied to the Blu/White cable in the trunk lid harness does this? This was the one signal I wasn't clear on. The LC2i can turn itself on when it gets audio signal which seems the easiest, but I feel like it might be helpful to have the amp on before I actually turn the stereo on so I don't have to wait for it to get going?

I already have all the equipment from a previous 3.7 Cyclone I had in 2017, but it was a base model hence the LC2i LOC. I think it still has benefit though, since it allows me to use a bass control knob which the Kenwood amp doesn't have an input for.

Good point about the noise generation in the metra cable. I think since I only have the Metra cable right now, I'm going to try running both signals through it and see how it works since I can pretty easily change one of the signals to a twisted cable later.

 

[StangTime]

One thing I forgot to ask in OP, was about turning everything on. I'm guessing the 'REM IN' signal to the LOC being tied to the Blu/White cable in the trunk lid harness does this? This was the one signal I wasn't clear on. The LC2i can turn itself on when it gets audio signal which seems the easiest, but I feel like it might be helpful to have the amp on before I actually turn the stereo on so I don't have to wait for it to get going?

I already have all the equipment from a previous 3.7 Cyclone I had in 2017, but it was a base model hence the LC2i LOC. I think it still has benefit though, since it allows me to use a bass control knob which the Kenwood amp doesn't have an input for.

Good point about the noise generation in the metra cable. I think since I only have the Metra cable right now, I'm going to try running both signals through it and see how it works since I can pretty easily change one of the signals to a twisted cable later.

Yeah, the Blu/Wht wire in the trunk harness will turn on and off your system with the car power.

Alright, try hooking it up your way and let us know how it goes.

 

[joe603]

Thank you for posting the wiring diagram! I'm doing a similar build, but really just replacing the crappy OEM sub with a set of 12s powered by an aftermarket amp (from my last car...Memphis audio gear). My plan was to pull out the OEM sub and use that space for mounting the amp and Audio Control LCi. Also going to dynomat while I'm back there and try to find an annoying rattle.

Where is everyone mounting the amp/processors? I guess my second choice is the spare tire area.

I was going to just use the LCi auto sensing for REM turn on and feed the new amp from the REM out. High signal was going to be from the OEM sub output.

Need to figure out where to mount the LCi remote gain dial up front...was thinking by the USB port in the middle blank plate, or in the sunglasses holder on the left side of the wheel.

 

[Freedom_Toast]

Yeah, the Blu/Wht wire in the trunk harness will turn on and off your system with the car power.

Alright, try hooking it up your way and let us know how it goes.

Okay so everything worked but I don't have a good way to splice into the blue/white wire and ran my remote on to the passenger footwell fuse box. Only issue now, is that I can't find figure out how to tell which fuses are 'switched' and which are constant on. I want the amp to behave the way the factory one does where it keeps playing until doors are opened.

All the threads I see on here refer to older models which had different fuses. This layout correlates to my fuse box:

https://www.startmycar.com/us/ford/mustang/info/fusebox/2021

 

[StangTime]

Okay so everything worked but I don't have a good way to splice into the blue/white wire and ran my remote on to the passenger footwell fuse box. Only issue now, is that I can't find figure out how to tell which fuses are 'switched' and which are constant on. I want the amp to behave the way the factory one does where it keeps playing until doors are opened.

All the threads I see on here refer to older models which had different fuses. This layout correlates to my fuse box:

https://www.startmycar.com/us/ford/mustang/info/fusebox/2021

Check Fuse 23. This should be +12 when in accessory and running. You'll need a fuse tap to connect there.

 

[Cathul]

You can get a 6V remote turn on one of the connectors in the drivers kick panel where you get your signal wires from. Just nead an automotive relay like from Pac-Audio the TR-7 (?) to turn it into 12V.
In those connectors you got constant and ignition 12V, ground, remote turn on, everything.
You even got CAN wires if you're into such things. ;)

 

[StangTime]

You can get a 6V remote turn on one of the connectors in the drivers kick panel where you get your signal wires from. Just nead an automotive relay like from Pac-Audio the TR-7 (?) to turn it into 12V.
In those connectors you got constant and ignition 12V, ground, remote turn on, everything.
You even got CAN wires if you're into such things. ;)

The TR-4 is a cheaper and simpler option. The TR7 is for installs that need programmable delays and triggers.

 

[Le Mans]

Hallo

Can I post my question here?

anyone advise me? I found a hidden kenwood amplifier to the left of my steering column. also a "diamond" box. ( LOC ?) What kind of box is this, what does this do ? When the ignition is off, a loud "pop" can be heard over all speakers. No Sheaker. the sound is worthless and it seems like the kenwood is not doing anything. What have they installed here and how should it be connected? Sorry for the mediocre photos

 

[Evolvd]

Hallo

Can I post my question here?

anyone advise me? I found a hidden kenwood amplifier to the left of my steering column. also a "diamond" box. ( LOC ?) What kind of box is this, what does this do ? When the ignition is off, a loud "pop" can be heard over all speakers. No Sheaker. the sound is worthless and it seems like the kenwood is not doing anything. What have they installed here and how should it be connected? Sorry for the mediocre photos

If you want maximum views you should start your own post. We’d need more info about the parts to tell you what they are.

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