unidentified module added to car

[5doorsoffury]

It's an alarm you can see the butt connector on that orange wire is interrupted reconnect that and unplug your module. It's interrupting a data connection possibly door triggers. Door triggers in this car need to be isolated. That button on the extended wire is the programming or valet button. All the stuff I need to install remote start alarms usually at the BCM. And really the crimp versus solder debate it's kind of stupid when a professional listens to it as you're about to find out most of this equipment does not stay installed long for that to ever be an issue and if you know anything about strain relief crimped versus solder is meaningless unless it's exposed to water.
I attached my old direct wire sheet maybe it'll come in handy just remember reconnect anything cut it was no reason why you can't remove it.

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[ORRadtech]

Would you say these that I bought previously are trash?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073RMRCC3?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Not as such, but they are limited. Using them in a low voltage situation in a reasonably controlled environment and they are fine. The problem with them is that the solder in them has an extremely low melting point so they can be activated by a heat gun. I side the car they should be fine. Under the hood and especially near a heat source like the exhaust and the solder can remelt and, since they don't have a true crimp connection, the joint can fail.
I have some of them and do use them occasionally. But, back in the day, I was always told the first thing to do when soldering was to have a good physical connection, then solder, and those don't.
But, again, soldering wiring together in an automotive or marine application is not really the best solution. A good solid crimp with the marine grade heat shrink is really your best choice.

 

[luca1290]

Would you say these that I bought previously are trash?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073RMRCC3?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

It's second best as per Ford TSB. You can use them, but it's discouraged.
First choice is always crimp butt splices and heat shrink with glue.

 

[bankyf]

There is a TSB from Ford who specifically states that soldering is worse than crimping with heat shrink with glue.

Link to TSB? Because Ford has soldered connections in some of their harnesses.

 

[bankyf]

Ahhh, the old crimp vs solder debate...
I know that I won't change anyone's mind but please do consider the following.
There are no factory wire to wire solder connections in any modern car. Everything is crimped. The only place you will find solder in a car is on a printed circuit board.
Heating wires hot enough to solder introduces stress and weakens the wire and the solder forms a stiff joint with two flexible points to further stress the connection.
The old style of crimp connectors with color plastic insulators that are still available can allow moisture and corrosion. But the newer ones come with adhesive lined shrink insulation installed and are excellent. As are the bare crimp connectors used in conjunction with marine grade adhesive lined heat shrink. If you buy a Ford replacement connector that is what will come with it.
The one downfall of crimp connectors is they are often installed improperly. Not using the correct crimping tool can result in a substandard connection. However, soldering has it's own drawbacks as well, cold solder joints being just one.
Those are just some of the reasons my "go to" wiring repair is a crimp connector with adhesive lined shrink warp.

Incorrect... I have found solder connections in harnesses of several modern Fords. Most recently in an F series truck tow mirror harness. I found it because it was close to a point of wire failure preventing the power fold from operating. Another off the top of my head was while looking for a fault in the CANBUS wiring on a 2022 Transit Amazon van. The solder joints I have found have all been where one wire splits in to 2 or more wires.

 

[Jaymar]

Incorrect... I have found solder connections in harnesses of several modern Fords. Most recently in an F series truck tow mirror harness. I found it because it was close to a point of wire failure preventing the power fold from operating. Another off the top of my head was while looking for a fault in the CANBUS wiring on a 2022 Transit Amazon van. The solder joints I have found have all been where one wire splits in to 2 or more wires.

I'm not saying it isn't possible but on most all modern vehicles you will usually peel into it and find a crimp ring bonding the wires.

 

[gvn49]

Ahhh, the old crimp vs solder debate...
I know that I won't change anyone's mind but please do consider the following.
There are no factory wire to wire solder connections in any modern car. Everything is crimped. The only place you will find solder in a car is on a printed circuit board.
Heating wires hot enough to solder introduces stress and weakens the wire and the solder forms a stiff joint with two flexible points to further stress the connection.
The old style of crimp connectors with color plastic insulators that are still available can allow moisture and corrosion. But the newer ones come with adhesive lined shrink insulation installed and are excellent. As are the bare crimp connectors used in conjunction with marine grade adhesive lined heat shrink. If you buy a Ford replacement connector that is what will come with it.
The one downfall of crimp connectors is they are often installed improperly. Not using the correct crimping tool can result in a substandard connection. However, soldering has it's own drawbacks as well, cold solder joints being just one.
Those are just some of the reasons my "go to" wiring repair is a crimp connector with adhesive lined shrink warp.

ok I see you point I also have been in the electric field since the 70's. I suppose the plugs and connectors you see with the green and blue corrosion because of water intrusion don't count yes I know with dielectric grease this can be stopped but working on ships, train locomotives, motorcycles and automobiles I've seen corrosion on all types of connections and yes most were caused by incorrect procedures, tools and or knowledge like just using tape to seal. Heat shrink material has gotten better over the decades but I would still use solider because of vibration. Moisture would not be a issue if done correctly but lots of people will damage the water intrusion prosperities by over hearting on nicking the shell. Everyone has their own opionion I was just adding as to what I have seen over the years.

 

[luca1290]

Link to TSB? Because Ford has soldered connections in some of their harnesses.

That's not public knowledge, I have access to the SSM by paying the fee.
But what I can post is this:

 

[Whitedevil95]

Interesting. I have a 2017 GT and when I did my fuel system I pulled off that same kick panel on the passenger side and i saw a several of those wire taps on my harness in a similar way. The device had been cut off, so whatever device was there is long gone, but they left the wire taps on there. I am the second owner, so i bet it was some kind of dealer installed alarm device.

 

[bankyf]

That's not public knowledge, I have access to the SSM by paying the fee.
But what I can post is this:

How about the TSB/SSM number? I have access as well. But honestly, it's clear to me from what you posted that Ford isn't opposed to solder joints, they just realize that most people can't do it properly.

 

[shogun32]

Why do you quote with screenshoots?

phone generation. Kids don't understand the power of source URL and plain text. They were never taught to cite their sources.

That device looks like a Buy-here-Pay-here tracker and remote-disable. Miss a payment or 2, they disable the car and send the wrecker to reposess.

 

[JetGray_Mach1]

phone generation. Kids don't understand the power of source URL and plain text. They were never taught to cite their sources.

That device looks like a Buy-here-Pay-here tracker and remote-disable. Miss a payment or 2, they disable the car and send the wrecker to reposess.

Not even worth responding to a clown

 

[ice445]

How about the TSB/SSM number? I have access as well. But honestly, it's clear to me from what you posted that Ford isn't opposed to solder joints, they just realize that most people can't do it properly.

I think there's a distinction between the gauge of wire being repaired as well, but I can't remember. For wires below a certain gauge/thickness you're supposed to solder, or I guess use those connectors that do it for you once you heat them up.

It's one of those age old debates that's kind of pointless though. Either method done correctly will work properly. Over the years I've done both and have yet to see any issues.

 

[luca1290]

I think there's a distinction between the gauge of wire being repaired as well

There is not any distinction made.

 

[bankyf]

That's not public knowledge, I have access to the SSM by paying the fee.
But what I can post is this:

Ford loves to contradict themselves. This morning I was reviewing the procedure for the F150 tailgate recall/customer satisfaction program. The procedure calls for multiple soldered connections and even has pictures of soldering/heatshrink the wires.

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