unidentified module added to car

[ORRadtech]

My first thought was a tracking device. Since you bought the car used there's no way to tell who installed it or when. It's possible it goes back to the original owner agreeing to one of the dealers bs add-ons, just no way to tell.
Whatever it is I'd want it out as well. For the cut wires use crimp connectors with adhesive shrink wrap and for the tapped wires, as long as there's no actual wire damage, consider liquid electrical tape to seal the insulation.

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[jtdb]

liquid electrical tape was a good idea i didn’t think of that. my intent was to de pin each wire individually to heat shrink them over where they were wire tapped. but that may be better. the wire that was cut i have no choice but to put in a splice unless i run new wires for it.

 

[Jaymar]

Without knowing what wires are interrupted it's hard to say what it is but it looks dealer/aftermarket installed and the interrupted wire looks like it is an immobilizer or rudimentary antitheft device they will often install for insurance reasons. You are likely OK to remove it and bridge the wire back together that is interrupted and you'll be fine. Don't worry about the wire taps, unless they were incorrectly sized and cut the majority of the wire strands they will be fine to leave in with no negative consequences.

 

[gvn49]

My first thought was a tracking device. Since you bought the car used there's no way to tell who installed it or when. It's possible it goes back to the original owner agreeing to one of the dealers bs add-ons, just no way to tell.
Whatever it is I'd want it out as well. For the cut wires use crimp connectors with adhesive shrink wrap and for the tapped wires, as long as there's no actual wire damage, consider liquid electrical tape to seal the insulation.

crimp connectore work but there is nothing better then solider and heat shring, I'v seen crimp lugs get damp and corrade and cause problems. If you don't want to remove wrap tightly with severial layers of alumin foil , after taping so no short will occur, and make sure the wires going into are sealtd well makes a decent RF blocker but without a RF meter you don't know if it is totaly blocked or buy a Faraday bag from amazon and place it inside just make sure its sealed well espically where the wires would go into th bag.

 

[luca1290]

crimp connectore work but there is nothing better then solider and heat shring

There is a TSB from Ford who specifically states that soldering is worse than crimping with heat shrink with glue.

 

[Jaymar]

If that wire sees enough water to matter between a crimp, solder and heatshrink with glue your BCM and everything else will be toast because your Mustang will now be a boat. Just crimp it with the right tool and it will never be a problem.

 

[ORRadtech]

crimp connectore work but there is nothing better then solider and heat shring, I'v seen crimp lugs get damp and corrade and cause problems. If you don't want to remove wrap tightly with severial layers of alumin foil , after taping so no short will occur, and make sure the wires going into are sealtd well makes a decent RF blocker but without a RF meter you don't know if it is totaly blocked or buy a Faraday bag from amazon and place it inside just make sure its sealed well espically where the wires would go into th bag.

Ahhh, the old crimp vs solder debate...
I know that I won't change anyone's mind but please do consider the following.
There are no factory wire to wire solder connections in any modern car. Everything is crimped. The only place you will find solder in a car is on a printed circuit board.
Heating wires hot enough to solder introduces stress and weakens the wire and the solder forms a stiff joint with two flexible points to further stress the connection.
The old style of crimp connectors with color plastic insulators that are still available can allow moisture and corrosion. But the newer ones come with adhesive lined shrink insulation installed and are excellent. As are the bare crimp connectors used in conjunction with marine grade adhesive lined heat shrink. If you buy a Ford replacement connector that is what will come with it.
The one downfall of crimp connectors is they are often installed improperly. Not using the correct crimping tool can result in a substandard connection. However, soldering has it's own drawbacks as well, cold solder joints being just one.
Those are just some of the reasons my "go to" wiring repair is a crimp connector with adhesive lined shrink warp.

 

[Jaymar]

Ahhh, the old crimp vs solder debate...
I know that I won't change anyone's mind but please do consider the following.
There are no factory wire to wire solder connections in any modern car. Everything is crimped. The only place you will find solder in a car is on a printed circuit board.
Heating wires hot enough to solder introduces stress and weakens the wire and the solder forms a stiff joint with two flexible points to further stress the connection.
The old style of crimp connectors with color plastic insulators that are still available can allow moisture and corrosion. But the newer ones come with adhesive lined shrink insulation installed and are excellent. As are the bare crimp connectors used in conjunction with marine grade adhesive lined heat shrink. If you buy a Ford replacement connector that is what will come with it.
The one downfall of crimp connectors is they are often installed improperly. Not using the correct crimping tool can result in a substandard connection. However, soldering has it's own drawbacks as well, cold solder joints being just one.
Those are just some of the reasons my "go to" wiring repair is a crimp connector with adhesive lined shrink warp.

I've been doing low volt wiring professionally in some form or another since rocks were cool and I second all of what he's stated here. I'll also add that I've seen many a good intentioned fix on a wire loom where somebody tried to solder fix and the collateral damage done to surrounding wires made it all worse. Add to that the number of vehicles I've repaired with a simple crimp butt connector with no problems what-so-ever easily numbers in the thousands.

 

[JetGray_Mach1]

Ahhh, the old crimp vs solder debate...
I know that I won't change anyone's mind but please do consider the following.
There are no factory wire to wire solder connections in any modern car. Everything is crimped. The only place you will find solder in a car is on a printed circuit board.
Heating wires hot enough to solder introduces stress and weakens the wire and the solder forms a stiff joint with two flexible points to further stress the connection.
The old style of crimp connectors with color plastic insulators that are still available can allow moisture and corrosion. But the newer ones come with adhesive lined shrink insulation installed and are excellent. As are the bare crimp connectors used in conjunction with marine grade adhesive lined heat shrink. If you buy a Ford replacement connector that is what will come with it.
The one downfall of crimp connectors is they are often installed improperly. Not using the correct crimping tool can result in a substandard connection. However, soldering has it's own drawbacks as well, cold solder joints being just one.
Those are just some of the reasons my "go to" wiring repair is a crimp connector with adhesive lined shrink warp.

If you don't mind can you show an example of this or an amazon link?

 

[luca1290]

If you don't mind can you show an example of this or an amazon link?

This is one such example: Wire Assembly WPT-1492- | TascaParts.com
OEM Ford.

Why do you quote with screenshoots?

 

[ORRadtech]

If you don't mind can you show an example of this or an amazon link?

Luca1290 linked an example of the Ford replacement connector.
Here's a screen shot of a connector kit from Amazon. There are many on Amazon, just type in "marine grade crimp connectors" and be sure they have the adhesive lined heat shrink insulation.
Oh, and be sure to have the correct crimp tool. Bare connectors use a different tool from insulated ones.

 

[JetGray_Mach1]

Luca1290 linked an example of the Ford replacement connector.
Here's a screen shot of a connector kit from Amazon. There are many on Amazon, just type in "marine grade crimp connectors" and be sure they have the adhesive lined heat shrink insulation.
Oh, and be sure to have the correct crimp tool. Bare connectors use a different tool from insulated ones.

Thank you, much appreciated.

 

[JetGray_Mach1]

This is one such example: Wire Assembly WPT-1492- | TascaParts.com
OEM Ford.

Why do you quote with screenshoots?

Because I felt like it

Thanks for the link

 

[JetGray_Mach1]

Luca1290 linked an example of the Ford replacement connector.
Here's a screen shot of a connector kit from Amazon. There are many on Amazon, just type in "marine grade crimp connectors" and be sure they have the adhesive lined heat shrink insulation.
Oh, and be sure to have the correct crimp tool. Bare connectors use a different tool from insulated ones.

Would you say these that I bought previously are trash?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073RMRCC3?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

[S550HPP]

Looks like tracker. I would take it to alarm / tracker install shop for removal.

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