Transmission Gear Oil

[Shipey]

I remember looking into that, and what I found was that Ford has used the same fluid since the beginning (2015), which is a DCT fluid. Where did you get the information that the fluid changed? Just curious if you looked deeper than I did. I plan to also change the fluid at around 6K miles, in a few months. I'm currently between the stock DCT fluid and Motul DCT-F, which is highly regarded.

I was digging for info on MT-82 tranny oil and found that link. Now I can't find the site where I got it, but perhaps it was in UK. Apparently, the US spec for 2021 has not changed. I was looking online at the 2021 Mustang Owner's Manual, and it's still the same WSS-M2C200-D2 spec. Maybe someone with a Bullitt sold outside the US shores will chime in?

I realize this is a tranny fluid thread, but another interesting fact is that the 2021 Mustang Owner's Manual now says the recommended engine oil for the 5.0 is Motorcraft SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Blend, WSS-M2C961-A.1 Wow, it took them long enough!!! There is no longer a reference to a recommended oil weight for racing.

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[Elp_jc]

the only shifting issue I have with my Bullitt is an occasional cluck when I put it in gear. Will changing the oil improve this?

As already mentioned, NO. That mechanical 'clunk' has nothing to do with the fluid.

US spec for 2021 has not changed.

I realize this is a tranny fluid thread, but another interesting fact is that the 2021 Mustang Owner's Manual now says the recommended engine oil for the 5.0 is Motorcraft SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Blend, WSS-M2C961-A. Wow, it took them long enough!!! There is no longer a reference to a recommended oil weight for racing.

That's what I thought. It might be different in other markets indeed. So I plan to stick with a DCT fluid, which is what the factory intended for our tranny, since it gets cold here in TX, believe it or not. Ha ha. If I was in SoCal, I'd probably consider a thicker fluid, like SS-II.

As for your last comment, not surprised at all. That's what I use (well, 0/30), and what many other markets use as well, so I went to '0' for better cold protection, and to '30' for better hot protection. The difference is truly minor, but rather get a fraction of a percent less fuel mileage, for the fractionally better engine protection.

 

[zack.whitford]

The "thunk" is easily avoidable if you shift a certain way. Push the lever to the left applying a slight amount of force and then push forward and instead of jamming it into 1st position, let the gearbox take it and it should go in smoothly.

 

[Bulutt]

The "thunk" is easily avoidable if you shift a certain way. Push the lever to the left applying a slight amount of force and then push forward and instead of jamming it into 1st position, let the gearbox take it and it should go in smoothly.

Good to know. Thanks

 

[Elp_jc]

The "thunk" is easily avoidable if you shift a certain way. Push the lever to the left applying a slight amount of force and then push forward and instead of jamming it into 1st position, let the gearbox take it and it should go in smoothly.

At least on my car, it has nothing to do with that. You might think it's that, but in reality you just waited long enough for the rotating parts to stop, once you have the clutch pedal in. If you want enough, it'd never clunk anymore, but the noise doesn't bother me enough to do that. Ha ha. And if tranny is moving a little when selecting 1st, always goes in easily. My tranny shifts like butter, and still clunks. By the way, when the drive-train slack is taken, like when you shift from R to 1st, it doesn't clunk either. My bet is the differential input shaft, probably due to the lack of a proper cush drive rubber isolator. None of my other manual cars ever sounded like this one, but with all other 'idiosyncrasies', like the tick, 2K-rattle, etc., this annoyance is very minor IMO.

It'd be nice to hear from an MT-82 owner under the car when the 'clunk' happen where exactly is coming from. I can clearly hear it coming from the back, and typically the driveline lash clunks come from the differential. But I guess it could be the tranny too. You can only tell if under the car. Or at least partially under the car (from the passenger side), so car doesn't have to be lifted, putting the head as inside as possible between differential and transmission, while somebody else puts tranny in 1st.

 

[zack.whitford]

At least on my car, it has nothing to do with that. You might think it's that, but in reality you just waited long enough for the rotating parts to stop, once you have the clutch pedal in.

I might think it's what? I was merely describing the method that I use to avoid it from a stop. I never suspected that anything bad was happening as I read that it's widespread and has been for some time.

I believe that the majority of complaints regarding the MT-82 can be attributed to poor driving skills. This transmission likes to be shifted gingerly and thoughtfully, which I really like. It reminds me of a vintage car which is cool because it lends itself to the Bullitt vibe. Yes you can row through the gears and slam them home but it's fairly obvious that the gearbox prefers a softer touch.

 

[shogun32]

any idiot who thinks a manual transmission is something you just jam or force should be beat about the head with a broken half shaft. The thunk is drive-line lash take-up and exists at all temps and oils. It's louder if you have solid/firm diff bushings or transmission inserts.

 

[Elp_jc]

I might think it's what? I was merely describing the method that I use to avoid it from a stop.

I KNOW. I tried to tell you it's not force on the shifter, or anything like that. Just like Shogun32 said, it's driveline lash take-up. If you wait long enough with the clutch pedal depressed, everything stops to a halt, and then no 'clunk'. But it's not what you do with the shifter. Since you take longer to shift doing what you're doing, you thought it was that, but it simply was that you waited long enough. I was just trying to help, but if you want to believe that, more power to you .

 

[zack.whitford]

I KNOW. I tried to tell you it's not force on the shifter, or anything like that. Just like Shogun32 said, it's driveline lash take-up. If you wait long enough with the clutch pedal depressed, everything stops to a halt, and then no 'clunk'. But it's not what you do with the shifter. Since you take longer to shift doing what you're doing, you thought it was that, but it simply was that you waited long enough. I was just trying to help, but if you want to believe that, more power to you .

Ah I see, thanks!

 

[GregO]

Motul Multi-DCTF
Clunk is nonexistent even with the solid mounted One pc. Shaftmaster DS.

 

[BigD94]

trumpian labels .

haha gtfoh dummy. you people are pathetic.

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