Trans oil change

[rwp50]

Do any of you change your own trans fluid on your GT.

my last was done by the dealer for $166.00, so is it really saving anything doing it yourself?

thanks,
RWP

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[EFI]

Honestly for that price and the cost of fluid, I'd just have it done at the dealer.

That said, it's a relatively simple procedure with the right tools. The hardest part is setting the correct level, but if you're confident that the current fluid level is good then it's simple to continue with that setting.

 

[Jccams]

I have the 10R80, hardest part for me is finding someone I feel is competent enough to get the level correct. Still looking. If the dipstick was where it is supposed to be I'd do it myself.

 

[TonyNJ]

Manual transmission is pretty easy, especially if you have access to a lift. With the auto, I think you have to drop the pan, so it's probably more involved.

 

[BullittBoy]

The key is getting the 10R80 to the right temp to check the level and it being jacked up on level ground. 166 (if that includes the fluid) is not unreasonable but I like to see my fluid. I have a 10R80 on the F150 which I serviced and a MT82 on the Bullitt, which I also serviced. The manual is too easy to do, again if you have the ability to lift it up.

The hardest part doing the 10R80 is getting it up to 208 degrees so the fluid expansion is correct for the level check. I added a PPE deep sump pan to the F150 which has a drain plug, so that make it a lot easier to drain it(and cleaner/less messy) as well. It also helps to get a pair of gloves for grills so you don't burn your wrist/arm when checking the level as the fill port is right there next to the cat on the auto. Pan gasket is reusable, so be careful when you remove the pan to swap out the filter to not damage the gasket. Me and my buddy have done ours on the trucks and it isn't that bad. Same for the diff-

 

[LCK22GT]

I agree with EFI, the most tedious part was gettting it up on four jackstands dead level. The MT drain and fill is pretty easy once that's done. I used the BG kit which comes premeasured and includes the pump.

 

[Justpassingas]

I’m at 80k on my daily 10R80 21GT and have been thinking about changing the trans fluid even though there’s no problems. Then I looked at the maintenance schedule in the owners manual and it’s says change at a 150k…I’ll probably wait till I get to a 100k.

 

[John S]

Do any of you change your own trans fluid on your GT.

my last was done by the dealer for $166.00

For that price, there's no way the dealer touched the oil pan, let alone changed the oil filter and I'm assuming the cost was just for a fluid flush/exchange? The 10R80 filter is huge and it should handle normal contamination without clogging or inhibiting oil flow for 150K (it passed such validation requirements under "normal" vehicle and dynamometer tests.) If you're a performance enthusiast, OEM service intervals are replaced by common sense and that's where switching to a PPE oil pan is a major upgrade and takes the mess out of oil and filter changes. Flushing the torque converter and cooler is usually not necessary but, if you have concerns, it's always an option and not that difficult.

 

[Rodpwnz]

I’m at 80k on my daily 10R80 21GT and have been thinking about changing the trans fluid even though there’s no problems. Then I looked at the maintenance schedule in the owners manual and it’s says change at a 150k…I’ll probably wait till I get to a 100k.

For transmission fluid, I always go by the rule of half of whatever manufacturer says, so instead of 150K miles I would do 75K miles or so. If you drive the car hard, or track it, then I would do it even more often.

I track my car 6-8 times per year, so I change my fluid every 25-30K miles.

I've also heard a lot of talk about 3-5K mile synthetic oil changes on a street driven car...I think that's ridiculous and a huge waste. I change my oil every 6-8K street miles, or every 2 track days. Multiple oil analysis say my oil and wear metals always looks great, and that I could push out to 10-12K miles if I wanted. I don't.

So I'm not some oil/fluid change eager dude, I just follow the data and/or what I've learned is effective and reasonable.

 

[rwp50]

Thanks to everyone!

 

[SCP440]

Maybe I am overlooking the obvious but if you extract the oil through the dipstick hole with one of the numerous devices available and measure exactly how much you have removed then refill with fresh oil exactly the same volume that must be easier than risking a third degree burn.
As long as you have no leaks and the transmission was working perfectly before this must be easier.
The other thought is to measure the level when cold on the dipstick with the existing fluid and just refil to the same level as before if you have no leaks.

 

[TXGTPig]

$166.00?!?!?!?! I'd do that every two years. Just the cost of Motorcraft ULV is $10-$12 a quart. You'll need at least 8 if not 10 quarts. Add in the filter and gasket (another $70ish), plus labor. I mean your at $170 just in consumables. If they truly did it for $166.00, there is absolutely no reason to tackle this on your own. I had mine done about 6 months ago. I sourced a case (12 quarts) of ULV on FB MP for $80 and was in about $80 for filter and gasket. I paid my local speed shop right at $250 to do it. I was going to do it myself, but after getting under there and messing with it, my time and sanity is well worth the $250. Good luck.

Side note, if you do decide to do it yourself. I'd get 4' of 1/4" clear hose and an empty gallon jug. Cut the bottom of the jug off, drill a hole in the cap and feed the hose just through it. Use some sealer to keep it in place. When your ready to do the initial fill, snake the hose down the passenger side engine bay into the transmission and pour your ULV into the gallon. This will save you a lot of time and frustration.

 

[ORRadtech]

Maybe I am overlooking the obvious but if you extract the oil through the dipstick hole with one of the numerous devices available and measure exactly how much you have removed then refill with fresh oil exactly the same volume that must be easier than risking a third degree burn.
As long as you have no leaks and the transmission was working perfectly before this must be easier.
The other thought is to measure the level when cold on the dipstick with the existing fluid and just refil to the same level as before if you have no leaks.

The obvious thing you're overlooking is the 10 speed transmission doesn't have a traditional dipstick. Instead it's a tiny little thing that literally bolts into the transmission in what may be the most difficult place to try to get a tool on it much less getting a pump hose into it on the off chance you succeed in getting it out. To make things worse Ford tightens the bolt like it's the last bolt holding the world together during an apocalypse...

 

[16RPG_Turbo]

I did mine, getting it level wasn’t the end of the world. But what drove me through the roof was my pump. The one I had the hose was too big to get in very far so too much was spilling out. Then I buy a different one at Autozone, the tube was perfect, but halfway through the bottle the pump portion fell to pieces. So I ran back to Autozone and they only had the same pump and thought maybe it’s a fluke and I got a bad one. So bought the same thing and ran home.

Put the cheap pump on and started again, 3 pumps in and it falls apart…… Took the spring out of the pump and manually worked it and it worked as it should, just not as designed.

I told my wife, I’ve never in my life had so many problems changing trans fluid. She said why didnt you pay someone else to do it…. If I can do it myself, I’m going to do it and do it right.

 

[bKennedy]

At 40K miles I dropped the pan and replaced the filter and fluid, pain in the ass. At 65K I drained the fluid by sucking it out with a pump I bought off of Amazon and then reversed the operation and pumped in the same amount that came out. If they are doing a good job for $166 that is a bargain. The same transmission on GM products have a stand pipe to set the fluid level, I contacted PML and asked them to produce a replacement pan with a stand pipe for the Ford 10R80 which they did. The replacement pan that they sell is $410 and one with the stand pipe is more, I believe you have to call them to get the price. I'll probably purchase one if I'm going to do the flush and fill again as you never know if the trans from the factory had the correct level and tryin to get the trans up to operating temperature and checking it with that little dipstick is next to impossible without burning your hand. My transmission works perfectly and I believe it is due to the frequent fluid changes. As you know the early 10R80s like mine had problems. the link for the new pan is:

https://yourcovers.com/Merchant5/me...urcovers&Product_Code=tp-asm-11179#tabSection

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