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To Those Who Have .. Subframe & Alignment

shogun32

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I would probably just use inclinometer on the iPhone
But is your case uniform and square? Do you have a reference surface that is known perpendicular to the imaginary line thru the core of the Earth where you are standing?
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Blu22HPP

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When aligning the rear subframe, will this have any impact on the driveline? I've seen a couple old posts about not aligning the rear, without aligning the front. Didn't know how much tolerance would be allowed in the driveline if just did the rear. I know many have done this, but haven't seen much about driveline issues afterwards.
 

Bulutt

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I have the Steeda Sub-Frame Alignment Kit, Bushing Support Kit, Sub-Frame Braces, Differential Bushing Inserts with Through Bolt Kit, Pro Active Adjustable Shocks (and Struts), Dual Rate Lowering Spring Kit and Vertical Links (there's a host of other stuff I'll leave out, but you get the idea).

All that said, first, off, I couldn't ask for the car to handle better, but the stance is incredible. The alignment is set up for the track and the comments and questions I get in parking lots are based on the fact that, as a Mustang, people question whether it's really a Mustang because it sits so nicely.

I have more planned as I upgrade the brakes to the GT350R Kit, so the adjustable toe links and upper camber arms will go in, and prior to installing the new knuckles, I'll press the spherical bushings into the knuckles.

Botton line is, I don't think you can go wrong with the sub-frame alignment kit, at the very least, to correct the issue your car has with a sub-frame that likely isn't tracking correctly.

MB
All the above sound good but where are the PICTURES? We need to see your car!
 

RAVAGE88

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All the above sound good but where are the PICTURES? We need to see your car!
These pics were taken after a bulk of the suspension and chassis work (dropped the car 1.25"), but more has been done since, and still a little bit more to do. I'll be dropping the rear sub-frame soon to do spherical bearings in the lower control arms, replacing the OEM upper camber arms and adjustable toe links (with bearings), replacing the front knuckles with the Mach 1 knuckles, spherical bearings in the front lower control arms, and then the GT350R brake kit. Before installing the new rear knuckles, I'll press the squishy bushings out and press in spherical bearings. That'll rid the car of every OEM rubber bushing. After all that, back to more engine work.
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turbofiveoh

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OP, I have nearly every steeda part in the catalog and while those parts dramatically change how the car handles they will not fix a bad alignment.

If you are even remotely handy with tools a string alignment is not that hard to do and doesn't require a lot of specialized tools. I think I spent less than $100 for everything. It's nice not having to rely on a shop technician or potentially non-serviced equipment.

Shogun32 is correct, don't worry about your driveline.
 
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Blu22HPP

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shogun32

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Blu22HPP

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looks like a 20lb sledge solution but hey, if they do good work at a reasonable price and are easy to get to/schedule, more power to ya.
A 20lb sledge definitely has a purpose, just didn’t think this one fit to well. Maybe the next go will....
 

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So, I'm going to chalk this up as a learning experience. I've owned many cars over the years, but this is the first one that I am actually doing something with.

I've at least found someone that wasn't afraid to do the alignment. I guess 5th option was a charm. They made the adjustments and got it cleaned up to were it looks better than before. However, in the end the subframe alignment will need to be done to get it truly where it should be. It's not far off from where it should be, and I'm nitpicking but thats what owners do. I got the parts but it looks good for now. Will save that job for winter or next spring when I lower it.

Thank you to all those who offered up advice and direction.
 
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Blu22HPP

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Before and after.

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RAVAGE88

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So, I'm going to chalk this up as a learning experience. I've owned many cars over the years, but this is the first one that I am actually doing something with.

I've at least found someone that wasn't afraid to do the alignment. I guess 5th option was a charm. They made the adjustments and got it cleaned up to were it looks better than before. However, in the end the subframe alignment will need to be done to get it truly where it should be. It's not far off from where it should be, and I'm nitpicking but thats what owners do. I got the parts but it looks good for now. Will save that job for winter or next spring when I lower it.

Thank you to all those who offered up advice and direction.
Glad you found someone to do the alignment and that it's closer than it was. More often than not, the subframes are not exactly where they should be and the problem is, they can be off fore and aft, side-to-side and rotationally (about the vertical axis, obviously not the longitudinal axis). This compounds (through tolerance stacking) any misalignment in camber, toe, etc., hence the need to base the alignment on a zero reference. Math is great, but unless one does all the math, one won't quite be there yet.

MB
 

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I just went through the same thing. After a custom alignment, the subframe shift on the passenger side, front and especially the rear was noticeable. Not only that the passenger side rear sits 1/4” higher, the front passenger is about 3/8” higher.
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Blu22HPP

Blu22HPP

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I just went through the same thing. After a custom alignment, the subframe shift on the passenger side, front and especially the rear was noticeable. Not only that the passenger side rear sits 1/4” higher, the front passenger is about 3/8” higher.
IMG_8389.jpeg
IMG_8399.jpeg
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This is my after look. From behind you see the difference, but from the side since they reduced the neg camber it looks much better.

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