Thrust Washer

[Spyshot]

I am having popping/clunking from the rear so I've been reading up on this thread...
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/rear-end-popping-clicking.162340/page-2

I pulled my hubs off of both rear wheels and the washers are not even there. I know this sounds dumb, but am I missing something? I see the schematic and have watched videos and I understand where they should be.

I did notice that on cj pony part's video on how to change a rear hub, that they appear to be missing there as well.

I have a 2016 v6 convertible with 110,000 miles.

Any insight would be appreciated.

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[NightmareMoon]

Well with 100k miles, you're surely in need of new rear hubs. That's a ton of miles and the stock ones can fail as early as 20k miles, so don't feel bad at all about putting two new ones in there.

The original thrust washers from 2016 were pretty thin and could get broken (and possibly work their way out?). The ones that came out from my first hub change a long time ago were pretty trashed.

I think none of the GT350 cars have them. I'm not certain if the convertibles are the same in the axle/subframe/knuckles as the normal GTs, so I can't say for certain if you /should/ have them, which sounds like the root of your question.

 

[NightmareMoon]

With that many miles, I'd give *everything* in your suspension a good inspection. All the control arm bushings, diff bushings, etc. For a mustang, its likely that more than a few things need attention if you plan to keep the car for another 50 or 100k more.

 

[Spyshot]

Yes that is the main question I'm trying to answer. The sound seams to be coming from the pass side. I already replaced the hub a year ago. I didnt even know about the thrust washer. I know it wasn't there then either. Maybe the darn hub went bad already.

 

[Spyshot]

when i go to parts.ford.com and put in my vin, it shows that it "fits my vehicle" so it must've been removed by someone?

 

[John S]

Don't always rely on the "fits my car" claims. My 2022 Mach 1 and other V-8 Mustangs updated to the new style front hubs in late 2021 but Ford Parts never updated their records. (At least the shop Manual noted an update.) Same with the clutch pedal safety switch, Parts never made an update to the latest version.

 

[Spyshot]

I went to ford and bought two washers and installed them this morning. The noise is gone. Hopefully gone for good. I'll try to update in a few weeks.

 

[17MagMetal]

My noise just came back, it’s a clear clink when you change direction at low speeds in my experience.

I’m going to be trying to crank on my axle nut again before I replace it once more. I have the revised “beefy” ones on.

 

[Spyshot]

My noise came back as well. Looking at suspension components now. Neither wheel bearing gives when i yank on the tire. I even put a bar under the tire for more leverage and no movement. I've checked for loose bolts and cannot find anything. I'm not sure what to do next.
The noise is not a clicking ,but more of a clunk. Can be heard just driving down the road when touching the throttle on and off. Maybe 60 mph in 4th so there is more force being put to the rear.

 

[WildHorse]

Leave. Them. Out.

 

[ray=out]

How did you torque the axle nuts? Did you use red loctite?

 

[WildHorse]

How did you torque the axle nuts? Did you use red loctite?

Torque to Ford specs with red loctite. I've put many mile and many 1/4 mile passes and the witness mark hasn't moved.

Those thrust washers are very good at only two things.
1. Breaking
2. Taking out the hub.

 

[kz]

My noise came back as well. Looking at suspension components now. Neither wheel bearing gives when i yank on the tire. I even put a bar under the tire for more leverage and no movement. I've checked for loose bolts and cannot find anything. I'm not sure what to do next.
The noise is not a clicking ,but more of a clunk. Can be heard just driving down the road when touching the throttle on and off. Maybe 60 mph in 4th so there is more force being put to the rear.

First thing to check when you hear suspension clunks is always sway bar links.

Also - when checking the rear wheel bearing, make sure the e-brake is off. Otherwise it'll never seem to be bad.

 

[Spyshot]

Yes torqued to spec but no loctite. Brake was off when testing.
Seams weird that the sound went away then came back after a day. And its not as bad now. Is that a clue?

 

[Spyshot]

Cleaned threads, installed new axle nuts and torqued to 150+1\8 turn. red locktite

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