Yes, normal. It’s a $70 suspension component that eats the elements. I’m sure the ball joint/bushing will crap before the arm does.
Black spray paint will fix this instantly!
Are your brakes acting up? A bad master usually equates to the internal seals going kaput and letting brake fluid behind the master cyl pistons.
In both your positions I’d completely flush brake fluid to start. Use a cheap DOT 4 and try the drives again. Well worth the $20.
Send it on detroit axle, I got 30k on one with extended studs and a 25mm spacer lolol. I did use a new axle nut though.
For the people I care for on a budget: timken has always been great.
If you don’t care about the budget get the ford performance units.
Howdy everyone!
Long time no post. I was considering buying a full IRS drop out of a PP car to swap onto my base GT (kinda serious, kinda not, still researching).
I keep finding myself ask the question, are there any differences between 15-17 and 18-23 car subframes (the cradle itself?).
I...
My PP3 experience says the GT350 mani is a meh unless you’re pushing to 7500rpm with any sort of regularity. I only got into the mani to stay carb compliant and skip another gen 2 manifold.
I won’t speak for the rest of the forum, but I believe your coin is better spent on FI if that is your...
Correct, I have both on my car now. The Steeda bolt was set to be as far inboard as possible and got some loctite and the TTY angle treatment because I never intend on touching it again. The BMR arm fit in just fine with no hiccups.
If I were doing it again I’d do the BMR lockout and then...
I used Steeda’s cam bolt solution initially and couldn’t stand the adjustment point (it’s the same as factory). I think the lockout is a good idea because it forces the bolt into one of two positions iirc.
You can use both solutions (I have the Steeda cam bolt + BMR arms on currently) and the...
Arms, don’t waste your time/effort on the inboard cam bolt solution. It’s a PITA to install/adjust.
Brand doesn’t matter they all do the same thing. I have BMRs with the poly bushing.
If you’re exceptionally bored could you pull the wheels/pads and then test for noise?
With no brake pad/heat shield to contact, if either hub was noisy I think most would agree you might get a whine.
Just don’t disrupt the “balance” of the chassis (no hammering around corners, slamming on breaks mid turns, etc.) and keep out of peak torque.
If you want to have fun beyond 4500rpm just make sure no one is near by unless you’re certain you won’t be a danger to anyone once the rear end breaks...