The Big Fat Track Car Cooling Thread

[WhiteyDog]

I've used Water Wetter in Karting, motorcycle, and car racing with good results as well. NANO Pro MT's "Nano Cool" is far superior and just hit the market (AutoZone) this month. It was developed with the military and in NASCAR and uses nano particles (graphite, graphene, etc...) to improve the heat transfer ability of your existing water/coolant.

Graphite has a very high thermal conductivity so as nano particles touch the walls of the aluminum in your radiator and engine water jackets (and touch each other) the surface area is greatly increased and thus heat transfer is increased. WW improves the surface tension of water but heat is not transferred to the majority of the flow of the water/coolant anywhere near as fast as Nano Cool. Water temps have been frequently reduced by 8-12*F by simply adding nano cool. It's pretty amazing stuff.

What personal results, on your car, have you seen with this Nano Cool? (No, I'm not being a hater, or stirring sh*t up, I just wanna hear first hand experience).

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[steveespo]

This seems pretty disappointing for a radiator upgrade.

Jim
Don't take the seals off of the fender edges, hood flutter will become a problem. I actually put racers tape over the hood to headlight seams when we were at the Glen and picked up 2 mph approaching the Bus Stop 149-151 mph.
I have the vented Anderson Composites hood which I think is doing a good job allowing excess pressure and underhood heat to escape, which should also add some negative lift. My next plan to bring down engine temps is to install an oil to air Setrab cooler in series with the factory oil to water cooler. have to use this Improved racing spin on port adapter,http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-c...t-remote-oil-filter-take-off-plate-p-644.html -10 hoses, Setrab 916 matrix and a Canton remote filter mount to keep the factory cooler. A sandwich plate won't fit on the factory cooler without the lines being in conflict. When I did this on my Boss setup, both oil and coolant temps dropped about 20 degrees per information from real Autometer gauges.

I also will be doing the RT upper and lower grilles, I like the look and they are much more open for airflow, you could also drill out the honeycombs on the stock grille to free it up. My plan is to adjust the openings if needed, again with racers tape at the track.

 

[Stuntman]

What personal results, on your car, have you seen with this Nano Cool? (No, I'm not being a hater, or stirring sh*t up, I just wanna hear first hand experience).

I know the owner of the company and have known about it for years when it was in development with the military and tested in nascar. The technology is pretty revolutionary and I've seen data in some racecars of 10*F temp reductions. It's pretty amazing that they finally brought it to the public.

Keep on mind that your thermostat regulates the temperature of your cooling system and your car will not run cooler than that, so on the street you won't see a difference.

If you have a 180*F thermostat, your car will not magically run at 170*F with Nano Cool. But on a racetrack where your car can see 220*F water temps, adding Nano Cool can bring it down to say 210*F.

I have backed to back tested their Nano Penetrating Oil with PB Blaster to take a exhaust manifold off of a 20 year old rusted BMW engine, spraying half of the nuts with Nano Penetrating Oil and the other half with PB Blaster. The PBB nuts loosened up but creaked and moaned the entire way out. The Nano nuts required a tiny but noticeably less effort, but didn't creak and had a smoother feel as they backed out.

Their Oil Stabilizer data from military helicopters tests and lab analysis is way better than Lucas. I have some in my Mustang now to see how the wear metals look in a Blackstone oil analysis.

All this is new to the market by less than a month. I've known about it for years and have seen the technology and data behind it. I don't mind and expect many skeptics, but I just wanted to bring a little attention to some amazing products. The next time you're at AutoZone, give it a try and pick up some NanoCool instead of Water Wetter, Nano Penetrating Oil instead of PB Blaster, Nano Dry Lubricant instead of WD40, Their Gear Oil or Grease instead of the red Mobil 1 grease that I've used for decades.

 

[WhiteyDog]

Hmm, . . .thanks for info. I'd be very interested to see a post of your oil analysis results. And yes, fully understood the Nano Cool won't magically make your engine run at 170f when it's 96f outside and you're running it hard, but every little bit helps.

 

[402]

Grill delete. The best mod I have done for cooling to date. Also move fans to full on at 212.
Before I was seeing over 250 degree CHT after 4-5 laps, after grill delete i haven't witnessed over 220 ever. I was pretty amazed. Nothing else done. Eventually an external oil cooler to replace the factory oil warmer will go on.

 

[DivineStrike]

Grill delete. The best mod I have done for cooling to date. Also move fans to full on at 212.
Before I was seeing over 250 degree CHT after 4-5 laps, after grill delete i haven't witnessed over 220 ever. I was pretty amazed. Nothing else done. Eventually an external oil cooler to replace the factory oil warmer will go on.

Have you noticed a difference in top end speed on large straights at the track?

 

[402]

Have you noticed a difference in top end speed on large straights at the track?

Nothing noticeable. I only see 130s on the straight. Hood movement increased but should be fixed once we vent the hell out of it.

 

[F0J]

Grill delete. The best mod I have done for cooling to date. Also move fans to full on at 212.
Before I was seeing over 250 degree CHT after 4-5 laps, after grill delete i haven't witnessed over 220 ever. I was pretty amazed. Nothing else done. Eventually an external oil cooler to replace the factory oil warmer will go on.

Hate to be a devil's advocate here but why would Ford want to block airflow through the engine bay? I don't personally know myself. I read that it affects aero and drag. Would this be something that's "safe" until a certain speed?

Does anyone know how one would rent an aero tunnel?

 

[402]

Hate to be a devil's advocate here but why would Ford want to block airflow through the engine bay? I don't personally know myself. I read that it affects aero and drag. Would this be something that's "safe" until a certain speed?

Does anyone know how one would rent an aero tunnel?

Fuel mileage, I am sure I created a lot of drag at this point but keeping my car from over heating in the first 4 laps is my first priority. Currently all that extra air that is coming in is going under the car, which is horrible. But I will be putting massive vents and ones that will actually pull air out of the top. Should get me back to where I need to be. The under body willl be fully in closed with a huge splitter out front.

 

[Plimmer]

Background:
Diff Cooler Test
Testing my homemade diff cooler as shown at a Chin trackday at COTA. The specs are as follows:
1. AN8 lines in and out the diff at the fill and drain plugs
2. Stock oil weight, Redline 75w-85 with Ford additive
3. My diff is the 3.31 base model with clutches
4. Cooler is a setrab, about the size of a number plate (tag plate)
5. Cheap eBay gear fluid pump
6. Cheap eBay temp controller to run the pump

COTA and the Chin format are tough tests in my opinion, I timed my on track sessions at roughly 27min. So that poor Stang gets beat on for 27 mins. I used a full tank of gas + another 16 gallons of gas per day:headbonk::headbonk: So that should give you an idea of how hard the car works at this event. And it was 92deg and Hot Humid.

My temp controller has a probe bonded to the diff cover, the temps it reports are accurate and I trust them. The controller turns the pump on at 203degF and off at 194degF. At the end of each session I noted the temps reported by the controller:
1. When the pump worked temps were always around 230degF - cool enough I think
2. Three out of the 9 session, the pump was not running when I came in, and sometimes when the pump was running and after I had stopped, but then restarted to record the temp readings the pump would not restart. Diff temps were likely well over 250degF when the pump did not run, because my controller only reads up to 250 and was flashing some kind of over temp error.
3. So the pump is marginal when running at the high temps that occur at the track, but interestingly it was still running end of day Sunday. Also it did not leak any oil. I might leave it in and see if it just needed a little break in period. Maybe the gears were locking up under the high heat, I'll open it up and take a look.

So thats it for the diff cooler project

Well the cheap eBay pump is still alive and kicking, ran a total of 6 x 20 minute sessions this weekend and the pump worked fine with differential temps around 210deg F at the end of each session. So for now the little pump can stay on the car until it dies.:lol::lol:

I think the earlier issues were it just breaking in...:shrug:

 

[thevillageidiot]

what have you guys done to combat the oil thinning out?

 

[BTM]

5W-30!

 

[wildcatgoal]

Do you need a tune for the 170* stat?

 

[wildcatgoal]

5W-30!

This is what I use.

I did AMP and didn't get any warnings, but my oil temps got up there toward the end of the day. I'm thinking of getting one of those oil cooler jobs, personally.

 

[Brent Dalton]

It helps so your fans don't run longer than they need to and burn up or run your battery down. You don't have to necessarily tune the car. You can update the fan settings in hptuners. To license a car through hptuners though, I think it's $100 worth of credits.

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