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The Big Fat Track Car Cooling Thread

TeeLew

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No one wants to hear my thoughts on engine temp, but I think to really cool these things, we probably need a big center rad, an auxiliary water rad on one front corner (about the size of a shifter kart rad) and an oil cooler on the other and then proper ducting for all of it. What a PITA, huh?



Edit: EWheels, I thought this was on your build thread, not this one. I'd said I'd knock off this one, and now I will, again.
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So are you suggesting radiator before oil cooler (aftermarket upgrade)?

I called Vorshlag awhile back and they recommended the opposite. Most people I talk to also recommend the opposite.

I know the real answer is "both" but a radiator is roughly half the price of an oil cooler.
I'm thinking/hoping new radiator+ducting+hood vents will be enough for me in sub-90° temps
To be fair Vorshlag run a series of tests on the Red 2018 with temp gauges and even with both Mishimoto Radiator and Mishimoto Oil Cooler they never managed to get the Oil/Water temperatures in check so they were always overheating by lap 2-3 of whatever time attack track they were running. I have a lot of friends seen measurable improvements from 3 pass radiator + race louvers so this is the most likely path I'm taking which doesn't mean I don't plan to install Oil Cooler since the Mach 1 have one no reason for me not to run one.
 

tosha

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So are you suggesting radiator before oil cooler (aftermarket upgrade)?

I called Vorshlag awhile back and they recommended the opposite. Most people I talk to also recommend the opposite.

I know the real answer is "both" but a radiator is roughly half the price of an oil cooler.
I'm thinking/hoping new radiator+ducting+hood vents will be enough for me in sub-90° temps
I accomplished CHT drop from up to 230 (had to do multiple cooldown laps in one session to stay below that) to pretty stable 212 without much of cooldowns in one session, while running much better and bigger tires in warmer temps on same track, all by doing just racelouvers (full hood set) and radiator ducting. Louvers alone did not give me desired effect, but when I added ducting it all started to come together. Oh, and I opened lower grille, upper is still stock. My ambients are quite lower that 90 and I am not quick by any means, but keep in mind that mine is also supercharged, which creates a lot more heat managment issues. For you, doing the ducting would be pretty much free upgrade and since you have louver already, it should give a lot of improvement.
 

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nbjeeptj

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I have found the combo that works. Several track days deep since my cooling mods and I am concerned that on a cool day I will have to block air flow to get the oil temp above 220. If you dig back in this thread you will see my mods but to do it the way I did mine you have to be ok with getting rid of the AC. Big radiator, massive oil cooler, and race louvers in the hood is all it takes. Pounding my car at 9.5/10ths and the highest oil temp I have seen is 234, head temp at 234, and coolant temp 221. Coolant and oil temp on real gauges. Like I have said earlier in this thread the car still calculates the oil at 280ish and was limiting power, but I programmed that threshold higher since I now know the calculated oil temp is way off.
 

TeeLew

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I do :clap: How is your new radiator?
Shiny and sitting in the garage. The honeycomb screen I just got in the mail earlier in the day from Speedway is going to be put on it shortly. It doesn't have to get put in right away. I have a little while.
 

Flyhalf

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I am aware we need an additional cooler for track driving, but I wanted to see if we needed it for street driving or not? Many cars don't have an oil cooler in stock form, even sports models like the GT86.

I think my test has proven that we do need a cooler, even for road driving, but I cannot believe I am seeing temps of 140°C under normal street driving? Admittedly, I have a cheap Amazon temp gauge for the test, but I checked it in boiling water and it read a little low. I have made you tube videos over on "Nigels Mustang Channel"
Mishimoto has 2 holes for temps...one from the cooler. One from the engine. U sure u got the one from thr engine?
And yes. The cooler the better
 

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Dumb question…with a stock set up, is there a way to get oil temp other than tapping the oil pan? Don’t see myself spending on oil cooler just yet
 

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luc

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Dumb question…with a stock set up, is there a way to get oil temp other than tapping the oil pan? Don’t see myself spending on oil cooler just yet
Don’t need to tap the pan. Just use an fitting adapter for the drain plug
And you then drain the oil by removing the sensor
 

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Pounding my car at 9.5/10ths and the highest oil temp I have seen is 234, head temp at 234, and coolant temp 221. Coolant and oil temp on real gauges. Like I have said earlier in this thread the car still calculates the oil at 280ish and was limiting power, but I programmed that threshold higher since I now know the calculated oil temp is way off.
Hate to tell you but you don't found the solution if your coolant temp is up to 221 and head temp at 234.
 

Gloucesternige

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I think these Coyote V8’s need a LOT of oil cooling. The GT4 cars have a huge cooler fitted. It sits below the main coolant rad and is as wide and deep and probably a good 5” high?
I always wondered why the Mishimoto cooler was so big, now I know!!
 

Gloucesternige

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Mishimoto has 2 holes for temps...one from the cooler. One from the engine. U sure u got the one from thr engine?
And yes. The cooler the better
I don’t have an oil cooler, just the Mishimoto blanking plate for RHD cars. That was the whole point of my test, to see if we could run the car on the road without the troublesome stock cooler.
turns out the answer is no.
 

TeeLew

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I think these Coyote V8’s need a LOT of oil cooling. The GT4 cars have a huge cooler fitted. It sits below the main coolant rad and is as wide and deep and probably a good 5” high?
I always wondered why the Mishimoto cooler was so big, now I know!!
They also have a racing radiator (C&R/PWR) and make *less* power than most guys who track their cars.
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