Is Magneride worth it to get the best of both worlds for a track car/daily driver?

[bullitt2]

Hi all,

Relatively new to posting on the forum and relatively new to modifying Mustangs (been modifying mine for about two years now). I have a base 2015 GT that has been modified to be a weekend track/autocross car and also a daily driver. Relative mods to this post include front struts, rear shocks and springs, Brembo brake upgrade, BMR sway bars, rear cradle lockout, Performance Pack staggered rims/tires with Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tires.

The car is great on the track but I have noticed that is it becoming a pain as a daily because of the super stiff suspension. One option is to adjust it for the winter months and then back to stiff for track use but I am curious if a newer GT with Magneride would provide a better solution to having a best of both worlds in terms of on track performance vs. daily driving. Would the track mode with Magneride provide enough stiffness to mimic some of the mods on my current car? Or would I still find that there is too much body roll? I have an opportunity to drive a 2021 Performance pack car with Magneride coming up but without being able to take it on the track, I'm not sure if I'll be able to compare the two cars thoroughly enough to make an informed decision.

Any help or comments would be great! Thanks so much!

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[Rael]

You may find some useful information in this simultaneous thread about Magneride:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/magneride.163278/

I think Magneride is great for street and track, but my track experience is limited.

 

[TundraOnKings]

Hi all,

Relatively new to posting on the forum and relatively new to modifying Mustangs (been modifying mine for about two years now). I have a base 2015 GT that has been modified to be a weekend track/autocross car and also a daily driver. Relative mods to this post include front struts, rear shocks and springs, Brembo brake upgrade, BMR sway bars, rear cradle lockout, Performance Pack staggered rims/tires with Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tires.

The car is great on the track but I have noticed that is it becoming a pain as a daily because of the super stiff suspension. One option is to adjust it for the winter months and then back to stiff for track use but I am curious if a newer GT with Magneride would provide a better solution to having a best of both worlds in terms of on track performance vs. daily driving. Would the track mode with Magneride provide enough stiffness to mimic some of the mods on my current car? Or would I still find that there is too much body roll? I have an opportunity to drive a 2021 Performance pack car with Magneride coming up but without being able to take it on the track, I'm not sure if I'll be able to compare the two cars thoroughly enough to make an informed decision.

Any help or comments would be great! Thanks so much!

One of my DD’s is a Lexus GS350 FSport with adaptive suspension similar to Magneride. It’s VERY noticeable going from Normal, to Sport, to Sport plus.

I feel my 2020 Mustang GT PP1 is somewhat similar but not as noticeable. And the noticeable portion, being that’s it’s not as stiff on the suspension adjustment when going to Track Modes. Normal mode is pretty comfy.
I test drove a Non-Magneride back-to-back with Magneride, and I personally could tell instantly in Track Mode while taking an on-ramp at high speed. I basically was pedal to the floor waiting on the salesman to tell me to let off. He didn’t, so I hammered the car. The salesman told me (Factory Ford guy) he couldn’t tell the difference between the two.
He wasn’t a car guy, so I took nothing he said seriously.
You can tell, it’s just not drastic.
I ordered Steeda Magneride Track springs (dual rate) that arrive Friday, since this is almost a dedicated track car for me. Factory Magneride with PP1 springs still has noticeable float/rock.
To do it again, yes, I’d go with a Magneride car. Would I pay $5,000.00 additional for it? Not since I’m almost dedicated track. Maybe if it was daily driven.

 

[danpass]

From what I remember Magneride is strictly in the dampers.

You’ll likely still need heavier springs for full bore track duty.

 

[boB]

Ford Performance has a handling pack (springs, sway bars, programming) for Magneride, that may be good for track use while still giving a decent ride on the street. Mine (stock) gives a good ride and there is a distinct difference going into Sport+ or Track mode although I haven't had it on a track (yet).

 

[NightmareMoon]

If you already have a '15, its more cost effective to pay the 3-6k for great aftermarket non-magnaride monotube shocks/coilovers. The price of upgrading to a newer car AND optioning that car for magnaride can buy a lot of goodies for your current car.

On a new car, if you don't mind the high high price, magnaride is a great option for a daily driver. I would guess you'd still want an aftermarket controller and aftermarket spring rates to really optimize for autox/track. Less so if you're starting with a Mach1.

 

[Egparson202]

If you already have a '15, its more cost effective to pay the 3-6k for great aftermarket non-magnaride monotube shocks/coilovers. The price of upgrading to a newer car AND optioning that car for magnaride can buy a lot of goodies for your current car.

On a new car, if you don't mind the high high price, magnaride is a great option for a daily driver. I would guess you'd still want an aftermarket controller and aftermarket spring rates to really optimize for autox/track. Less so if you're starting with a Mach1.

What if you’re starting with a ‘19 GT350 for use as a non-DD, driven to the track, track car?

1. OE VMP Track mode
2. DSC Sport with OE MR setup
3. BMP GT350 springs
4. Bag all the MR stuff and go with nice coiovers
5. other?

 

[NightmareMoon]

What if you’re starting with a ‘19 GT350 for use as a non-DD, driven to the track, track car?

1. OE VMP Track mode
2. DSC Sport with OE MR setup
3. BMP GT350 springs
4. Bag all the MR stuff and go with nice coiovers
5. other?

You can do a lot worse than a GT350R on track. Maybe just the GT350R springs (or similar high rate springs that fit the stock perches), camber plates, some swaybars, and then consider a magnaride controller if you're driving it on track and aren't happy with the stock magnaride settings.

 

[Egparson202]

You can do a lot worse than a GT350R on track. Maybe just the GT350R springs (or similar high rate springs that fit the stock perches), camber plates, some swaybars, and then consider a magnaride controller if you're driving it on track and aren't happy with the stock magnaride settings.

I’ve been thinking along those lines, too. Where I have a bit of uncertainty is in the fact that the 350R has different dampers than my 350(non)R. It seems likely they’re better suited for higher spring rates. And you get into the corresponding VMP calibration differences.

I’m (selfishly) hoping to find a GT350 owner out there who has already blazed the trail. [I know: Hope is not a strategy!] so I can pick up the cheat codes and avoid a good bit of the time and effort associated with testing. [Because time is what we all have the least of!. Oh, and my humble talents lie much more in driving than spinning wrenches.]

That all leads me to cling to the idea that the DSC Controller might be enough without much in the way of part swapping. For now, I’m still inclined to stick with the core of the factory setup. I know how I want the car to handle. I’ll see how close it is and go from there. [Unless someone out there wants to be my patron saint and share all the answers.]

EDIT: So far my part swapping has been centered on alignment and bushings, things I have less uncertainty about than springs/dampers/ARB’s.

 

[NightmareMoon]

I’ve been thinking along those lines, too. Where I have a bit of uncertainty is in the fact that the 350R has different dampers than my 350(non)R. It seems likely they’re better suited for higher spring rates. And you get into the corresponding VMP calibration differences.

I’m (selfishly) hoping to find a GT350 owner out there who has already blazed the trail. [I know: Hope is not a strategy!] so I can pick up the cheat codes and avoid a good bit of the time and effort associated with testing. [Because time is what we all have the least of!. Oh, and my humble talents lie much more in driving than spinning wrenches.]

That all leads me to cling to the idea that the DSC Controller might be enough without much in the way of part swapping. For now, I’m still inclined to stick with the core of the factory setup. I know how I want the car to handle. I’ll see how close it is and go from there. [Unless someone out there wants to be my patron saint and share all the answers.]

EDIT: So far my part swapping has been centered on alignment and bushings, things I have less uncertainty about than springs/dampers/ARB’s.

Right.. Get on track, then figure out what you want to change.

This is a common pitfall where people think they need to sort the car to play at the track, and that's basically the worst way to go. Get on track, then let your experiences educate what changes you want to make to the car setup.

Last thing you want to do is waste too much time and money trying to get the car right, and then go drive it and learn you went entirely the wrong way.

 

[shogun32]

Last thing you want to do is waste too much time and money trying to get the car right, and then go drive it and learn you went entirely the wrong way.

sure, but certain things are "proven" like 19x10 or perhaps wider, bracing the IRS and fixing that general section of the car. @NoVaGT will probably pipe in with how his car feels now with some choice mods to his MR car.

I think MR *can* be brilliant for dual-purpose but unfortunately needs vastly better maps than Ford deigned to provide for the PP1 level trims. Supposedly the MR upgrade kit gets you PP2 tuning but not clear how that compares vs GT350. I know it's possible to have VERY acceptable results from MR technology - you just need to buy a Camaro if you want it from the factory. Once the community gets some good maps, then it's just a DSC purchase away.

I suspect the 350R went with different internals to get the rebound damping up where it needs to be to work with the higher spring rates and demands of a "true" track-use car. I suspect Ford ran out of voltage or rate-of-change to get the results and thus had to change the physical properties of the piston assembly to shift the entire curve.

 

[NightmareMoon]

sure, but certain things are "proven" like 19x10 or perhaps wider, bracing the IRS and fixing that general section of the car. @NoVaGT will probably pipe in with how his car feels now with some choice mods to his MR car.

I think MR *can* be brilliant for dual-purpose but unfortunately needs vastly better maps than Ford deigned to provide for the PP1 level trims. I know it's possible to have VERY acceptable results from MR technology - you just need to buy a Camaro if you want it from the factory. Once the community gets some good maps, then it's just a DSC purchase away.

The need for extra bracing in the IRS is frankly highly debatable. I autocrossed for 3 years and won a ton w/ no extra bushings or braces. I still have nearly no mods to the rear suspension (just 2 replaced bushings per side) and I'm winning against ZL1 1LEs and Mustangs with all those mods. I like the rear control arm bearings, I like the feel of sliding better with those mods, but wheelspin and sliding is the slow way around the track.

19x10 aren't needed by everyone when 9.5" are fine for a lot of people. I run 11s, but did they make me a better driver or make it any more fun? No, not really.

You don't need to follow a recipe before you put the car on track for the first time (esp if starting with a GT350 chassis). A lot of it is simply a waste of money.

 

[shogun32]

I autocrossed for 3 years and won a ton w/ no extra bushings or braces.

sure, but you're a good/eperienced enough driver to control your car despite it's limitations. Most people aren't that good and mods really help confidence and feedback. I removed my Steeda K-brace this morning and I can tell a difference just chasing apexes on my familiar roads.

Was the K-brace/IRS fixes going to make me faster? Call it a coin flip, but I absolutely PREFER the feeling these mods impart. I can read the car much better.

19x10 aren't needed by everyone when 9.5" are fine for a lot of people.

nobody has a 9.5 square car from the factory except the EB+HPP+Handling. I've got 4 sets of 9.5 wide wheels (and 10 and 11's) but most sane people buy just one set, so 19x10 is the most logical option to pursue. And that's where most of the good tires are at - 285+ or if 275 a little bit of stretch on a 10" makes them arguably better.

 

[NoVaGT]

I'll add my $.02 about modding a Magneride car.

First; I'm a sensitive little bitch, so the perceived changes I'll be gushing about some may not think such a big deal. And this is also about DDing the car on normal roads, doing normal driving, and not track stuff.

This morning I did the Steeda Stop-The-Hop Starter kit, vertical links with poly bushings, and their G-Trac K-brace. I also got an alignment that adjusted some slight front end toe out, to a slight toe in.

Hoo. Lee. Fuq. What a difference.

I had done the same IRS stuff on my 2016 PP1 car, so I knew what I was getting into and could expect. But I had also done Steeda's adjustable shocks and struts at the same time, so there's always a bit of a question as to which parts/mods made what sort of changes. And the same goes here.....I did it all in one shot, so I can only explain what the over-all difference is.

When I bought this car, I didn't really think it needed the Steeda stuff. But over the time I've owned it, I've gotten sicker and sicker with the wiggle-wiggle-wiggle-wiggle of the back end. And with Magneride, the fucking wiggle (FW) was somehow more obvious and annoying. If the car was in Normal mode, it was all over the road L to R (horizontally), as well as up & down. So to stop all that non-sense, into Track mode the MR goes.....

Which then makes the FW even more noticeable. With less up & down suspension movement in Track mode, the FW became even more annoying, more specifically noticeable.......so it had to go.

And the FW meant that when driving on crowned roads, the rear of the car steered the whole fucking car (FC). Top gear at 65 MPH, mash throttle and the FC would move into the lane to the right. Off the throttle and the FC would move back to the left one lane. It was really that bad on one particular freeway that has crown, and in general power ON sent the FC to the right, and releasing the throttle would steer the FC to the left.

Now, the FW is gone. And the FC stacks straight and true without regard to throttle. The car is absolutely planted, stable, and over-all just 100% more solid. It's feels like the spring rates have been doubled, especially in back.

Other observations;

-The trans shifts better. Evidently the cradle lock-out really helps.

-A bit of a rattle in the back end has disappeared.

-There is slightly better front end/steering feel. Not dramatically so, but at least some improvement.

-It feels as if the MR can now finally do it's job properly. As if before all the mods, the MR was trying to stop the suspension moving in several different axis, and now it just has to deal with up & down, as it always should have.

-I can now drive the car in Normal mode without being annoyed to death by the back end doing whatever the hell it wanted to at any given moment.

I haven't pushed the car yet, but the cruising mode changes are tremendous. Well worth the $1K spent in parts and labor. This is the way the car should have come from the factory, and I should have done these mods when I first bought the car.

Also, if you need any S550 wheels, gently worn tires, wheels, various S550 parts and goodies, any partially working sport-bikes, anything turned on a lathe, and sundry other Mustang/garage crap, please contact Shogun, so he can get his fucking garage (FG) cleaned out.

Dude's got lots of great stuff, and he's always ready to wheel and deal, and is a genuinely helpful & good guy. But please, for the love of God, do NOT sell him anything. If he contacts you to buy your discarded parts, tell him you've already sold them. Your dog ate them. You lost them. Whatever.

 

[Egparson202]

I think MR *can* be brilliant for dual-purpose but unfortunately needs vastly better maps than Ford deigned to provide for the PP1 level trims. Supposedly the MR upgrade kit gets you PP2 tuning but not clear how that compares vs GT350. I know it's possible to have VERY acceptable results from MR technology - you just need to buy a Camaro if you want it from the factory. Once the community gets some good maps, then it's just a DSC purchase away.

THIS! THIS gives me hope. GT350 owners: Let’s learn the handling improvements our cars need to go to the next level and use DSC to design the solution.

I suspect the 350R went with different internals to get the rebound damping up where it needs to be to work with the higher spring rates and demands of a "true" track-use car. I suspect Ford ran out of voltage or rate-of-change to get the results and thus had to change the physical properties of the piston assembly to shift the entire curve.

This…. Ugh. This introduces uncertainty about the degree to which MR tuning with DSC can turn the GT350 into a full on track machine.

Has no one here travelled this road with their GT350? That doesn’t seem likely given the number of these cars Ford cranked out in 5 years of production.

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