Tear in Frame

[Hack]

I would at least try to get Ford to cover it. To me, it looks like an obvious manufacturing defect - since there was no accident. If they argued that it wasn't a defect, then I would say it probably was there before the warranty expired but just wasn't noticed.

Proper repair is probably drilling the ends of the crack to get rid of the stress risers, then weld and paint. If the crack is under other sheet metal, that other metal should be removed so the crack can completely be repaired.

edit: looks like @ice445 beat me on that post.

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[Hack]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it's the fender edge that's cracked and it's aluminum which can be tricky to weld. Not that it can't be done of course, but it can also be tricky to stop cracks from restarting at the ends from thermal expansion and such unless you drill holes in each. Not sure how the fender is rolled over the box section there and if it can be drilled without affecting the metal underneath?

I could be totally off though.

Yes aluminum is brittle and doesn't have a fatigue limit. And yes, it's more difficult to weld than steel. It can be done in some circumstances, but I wouldn't be surprised if a body shop didn't want to do it due to a potential future failure. That area of the body shouldn't be highly stressed or move very much, but those things can be surprising.

One option is to drill the ends to try to stop the propogation and then seal it with no welding. But I would think you could weld with a softer aluminum filler rod and build up a little extra and get it to work.

 

[StangTime]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it's the fender edge that's cracked and it's aluminum which can be tricky to weld. Not that it can't be done of course, but it can also be tricky to stop cracks from restarting at the ends from thermal expansion and such unless you drill holes in each. Not sure how the fender is rolled over the box section there and if it can be drilled without affecting the metal underneath?

I could be totally off though.

The repair may not be easy but this part of the car is steel.

 

[80FoxCoupe]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it's the fender edge that's cracked and it's aluminum which can be tricky to weld. Not that it can't be done of course, but it can also be tricky to stop cracks from restarting at the ends from thermal expansion and such unless you drill holes in each. Not sure how the fender is rolled over the box section there and if it can be drilled without affecting the metal underneath?

I could be totally off though.

Hood and fenders are aluminum. The torn area is the passenger side quarter panel which is steel.

 

[ice445]

The repair may not be easy but this part of the car is steel.

Hood and fenders are aluminum. The torn area is the passenger side quarter panel which is steel.

Gotcha, thanks for the correction.

 

[80FoxCoupe]

I'd put some clear silicone in that tear and monitor. I wouldn't worry about it too much.

 

[furdfan2018]

I'd put some clear silicone in that tear and monitor. I wouldn't worry about it too much.

100%.

Big nothing burger.

 

[Oakley]

New rear fender, including paint and labor. Massive cost for sure if done the right way.
With that said, this isn't likely to cause any problems or allow water into the car, but some seam sealer (and some grabber blue paint) to cover it up would be the route I would take personally.

But because this is a GT350, doing it correctly would be preferable for value reasons.

that is completely wrong. if its sheet metal the correct fix depends on whether or not the crack was painted and if corrosion is present.

replacing a fender for a crack on the INSIDE of the trunk area is like doing a heart transplant because you need to be more active.

1. sand, seam seal, and paint if no corrosion
2. grind out rust, weld up, seam seal, paint, treat inside as well if yes on corrosion

it being a GT350 is even more of a reason to not CUT INTO THE C PILLAR and replace the whole fender.

this is not a big job. I could fix this without you ever being able to detect it in my driveway.

 

[ice445]

that is completely wrong. if its sheet metal the correct fix depends on whether or not the crack was painted and if corrosion is present.

replacing a fender for a crack on the INSIDE of the trunk area is like doing a heart transplant because you need to be more active.

1. sand, seam seal, and paint if no corrosion
2. grind out rust, weld up, seam seal, paint, treat inside as well if yes on corrosion

it being a GT350 is even more of a reason to not CUT INTO THE C PILLAR and replace the whole fender.

this is not a big job. I could fix this without you ever being able to detect it in my driveway.

That's just what I assumed a body shop or ford warranty process would do (and I clearly know little about body work lmao). But in general I agree that doing all that work for this wouldn't make any sense. I wasn't trying to assert that's what NEEDS to be done even if it probably seemed that way. I have zero expert opinion on this matter.

 

[rolfe.oliver]

Would that be covered by the bumper to bumper?

corrosion warranty expired at 5 years, so I am all out of warranty (except for emissions devices, lol), but this looks to be an obvious material defect.

 

[rolfe.oliver]

that is completely wrong. if its sheet metal the correct fix depends on whether or not the crack was painted and if corrosion is present.

replacing a fender for a crack on the INSIDE of the trunk area is like doing a heart transplant because you need to be more active.

1. sand, seam seal, and paint if no corrosion
2. grind out rust, weld up, seam seal, paint, treat inside as well if yes on corrosion

it being a GT350 is even more of a reason to not CUT INTO THE C PILLAR and replace the whole fender.

this is not a big job. I could fix this without you ever being able to detect it in my driveway.

Cutting is the absolute last thing I want to do, especially if it is on my dime.

I like the idea of rust protectant, seam sealer, and paint.

 

[rolfe.oliver]

I would at least try to get Ford to cover it. To me, it looks like an obvious manufacturing defect - since there was no accident. If they argued that it wasn't a defect, then I would say it probably was there before the warranty expired but just wasn't noticed.

Proper repair is probably drilling the ends of the crack to get rid of the stress risers, then weld and paint. If the crack is under other sheet metal, that other metal should be removed so the crack can completely be repaired.

edit: looks like @ice445 beat me on that post.

I am going to schedule an appointment with my local ford dealer and try to go through them. They have a good body shop, so hopefully this is just a big nothing burger.

 

[MAGS1]

corrosion warranty expired at 5 years, so I am all out of warranty (except for emissions devices, lol), but this looks to be an obvious material defect.

Got it. This dang app LOL. I can’t see your car details. Saw the grabber blue in the photo and you said 2022 so I assumed it was a 2022 car. Still might be worth seeing if they’d cover a material defect like that but they’d probably say you’re on your own

 

[rolfe.oliver]

Got it. This dang app LOL. I can’t see your car details. Saw the grabber blue in the photo and you said 2022 so I assumed it was a 2022 car. Still might be worth seeing if they’d cover a material defect like that but they’d probably say you’re on your own

Hoping for the best and that I get a sympathetic warranty advisor, but we will see.

 

[80FoxCoupe]

Hoping for the best and that I get a sympathetic warranty advisor, but we will see.

I personally would not want a dealer to make that repair.

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