TDStuart Tuning Adventure

[K4fxd]

How much work is it to add a map sensor and is it possible to get it hooked up to the pcm?

You have to hook it to a vacuum source. Easiest way is to T it off the brake booster or another tap.

On the gen 2 the only way is to tie it into the IMRC, AC pressure switch or have a MPVI device with pro tools. The ECM will not directly read it.

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[markmurfie]

Is the barometric pressure patch going to cause issues?

If it really won’t affect anything too negatively I don’t really care. As long as it won’t make drivability super bad or mess up my fuel trims / safety of the car I guess I don’t care too much.

How much work is it to add a map sensor and is it possible to get it hooked up to the pcm?

I dont think it will be an issue anymore, it prevents the TB from drifting into the error you were seeing. It allows the ECU to use the cylair filter and keep things smooth at low/part throttle. The MAF is the main control of fuel and the O2 sensors keep that in check. These cars are extremely safe for the engine from a control stand point.

Its a temporary thing, you can always tune the SD at a later point, as long as you keep you MAF transfer known good... technically even if its not good. Its more fine detail tuning anyway, than something that makes a huge performance difference. I have a lot of faith in the stock SD coeffecients with a good MAF transfer for NA stuff. Getting rid of the constant 7-10% lean issue at WOT is the main thing you needed. MAP sensors are fairly cheap. T'ing them into a good vacuum source is fairly easy. I find wiring them to my HPT pro feature set easy. Ive read about and see logs from others repurposing a varity of sensors already attached to the ECU to be their MAP sensors voltage, and picking it up from the OBDii scanning. I find polling rate in logs is much better using the pro feature set, so I have never dont it that way.

You have an intake, injectors, and E85 to apply. Then see if you have any of the performance you were missing back. you also have a whole torque model, torque estimate, and demand torque to worry about.

 

[tdstuart]

I dont think it will be an issue anymore, it prevents the TB from drifting into the error you were seeing. It allows the ECU to use the cylair filter and keep things smooth at low/part throttle. The MAF is the main control of fuel and the O2 sensors keep that in check. These cars are extremely safe for the engine from a control stand point.

Its a temporary thing, you can always tune the SD at a later point, as long as you keep you MAF transfer known good... technically even if its not good. Its more fine detail tuning anyway, than something that makes a huge performance difference. I have a lot of faith in the stock SD coeffecients with a good MAF transfer for NA stuff. Getting rid of the constant 7-10% lean issue at WOT is the main thing you needed. MAP sensors are fairly cheap. T'ing them into a good vacuum source is fairly easy. I find wiring them to my HPT pro feature set easy. Ive read about and see logs from others repurposing a varity of sensors already attached to the ECU to be their MAP sensors voltage, and picking it up from the OBDii scanning. I find polling rate in logs is much better using the pro feature set, so I have never dont it that way.

You have an intake, injectors, and E85 to apply. Then see if you have any of the performance you were missing back. you also have a whole torque model, torque estimate, and demand torque to worry about.

Okay I think Ill just leave the fix and finish dialing in the maf so I can switch injectors.

Still not sure about the best way to go about the injectors. Should I try all the datasets I've found and see if I can find one that gives the best results. If that fails should I try to scale the injector data. Hmmm.

Once the lu47 injectors are good I can put on the pmas and get that dialed in.

Then I can start adding timing, fixing the weird first gear issue where the knock sensors pull a bunch of timing, fix my paddle shift, etc..

Then go to E85

 

[GregO]

Once the lu47 injectors are good I can put on the pmas and get that dialed in.

Maybe consider reinstalling your original MAF sensor into the OEM air box and verify if in fact there was an issue with it. Remember, I didn't suggest a new sensor being there wasn't an issue with the original sensor installed in the JLT setup.
As it stands we're not sure if the IAT flucuations were related to PMAS or the MAF sensor being you switch both air box and sensor at the same time.
Sound reasonable ?

I'm still wondering at what IAT in degrees fahrenheit does ignition timing starts to pull back ? Tristan might as well be driving in a blast furnace in his part of the country.

 

[tdstuart]

Tristan might as well be driving in a blast furnace in his part of the country.

Haha ya it’s pretty brutal in the summer. I think like 150* the car starts hitting protections for iat temps. Just wait until the temps hit 115+ and the iats are over 120* even while driving. The car can get to 160*+ iat when it sits even with the stock airbox. My old JLT heatsoaked even worse. I think I might have even seen 170 but don’t quote me on that.

I’ll put in the old maf and see if we can see any change.

Hopefully I can get the tuning dialed so I can finally tear into the motor and try to figure out what is causing my power loss issue. I’ll need to make another thread on that when the time comes. I’m hoping it’s something top end that won’t break the bank. Hopefully the car will be in top shape when the temps drop in winter and maybe I can even throw on my ported boss and bigger tb.

Then I can finally start saving for boost and a transmission rebuild.

 

[bankyf]

I am certainly no tuning expert, but if this were me, I'd be looking really hard at a camshaft issue at this point. Either ground or installed incorrectly. Have you done a compression test on the car?

 

[GregO]

I think like 150* the car starts hitting protections for iat temps.

I’m now curious, how many different high limit IAT protection protocols are based off the MAF sensor air temperature sensing element ? Is it limited to ignition timing only or are there other systems included ?

On another note, how much if any silica fines are you seeing inside of the CAI duct work ? You’re living in the extreme of air quality and desert airborne particulates. Being I’m mostly a Powersports guy I can say with certainty Gauze type filters are horrible at trapping silica vs. two stage oiled foam filters or good old fashion pleated paper filters.
My fortune telling side is leaning towards your TB blade hanging up episode could be the result of some silica getting past the gauze air filter and into the blade shaft area.

 

[Pistol_91]

I didn’t say anything about injectors or MAF sensor replacement. I did suggest returning to the stock box which was used not new and cost you nothing.
I still have serious reservations about the PMAS fender well Filter/MAF housing, sensor location.

Yeah, it's dog shit location

 

[WildHorse]

Yeah, it's dog shit location

And there crazy air turbulence in there. MAF doesn't like that.

 

[shogun32]

You can't mention needing new parts pretty soon @GregO will demand I replace the entire car for new parts

18+ are just better.

 

[tdstuart]

18+ are just better.

Ya I wish I got the 10 speed. Better for n/a and better for low boost.

Although you have to make sure they don’t blow up

 

[GregO]

Ya I wish I got the 10 speed. Better for n/a and better for low boost.

Although you have to make sure they don’t blow up

Wanted to ask;
Are you using the 18+ MAF lid and TB duct tube or the 15-17 MAF lid and TB duct tube ?

 

[tdstuart]

Wanted to ask;
Are you using the 18+ MAF lid and TB duct tube or the 15-17 MAF lid and TB duct tube ?

15-17 air box

 

[K4fxd]

Have you tried putting the old MAF sensor in the stock tube?

 

[tdstuart]

Have you tried putting the old MAF sensor in the stock tube?

Not yet I actually had to work today haha

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