Tabers ProCharged 2015 GT

[Waldorf]

You need to think about how much power you want, and where you're using your car.

550-600 at the wheels can be a real party in a rainstorm. Even 350-400 can be.

TxBornSooner,

Basically, what Bath550 has been saying is "think this all the way through". If not, all you may be left with looking back is "It seemed like a good idea at the time." I've had plenty of "It seemed like a good idea at the time" episodes in my life. Hurts 2 ways: Pride AND the pocketbook.

If you're sure that you've got to have the top dog charger, go for it. If you're not sure, be logical AND patient... think it all the way through.

Best of luck whatever you decide.

That is all...

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[TxBornSooner]

Its as basic as a pulley change (and tuning obviously, but that would be the same with the Stage 2 and a pulley change as well) with the HO kit (up to 650ish whp, then you're dealing with fueling changes)

Amazon tuning has already made 703rwhp on 93 oct with the HO Kit on the standard IC: https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=951489514863749&fref=nf

What are you doing with your car? What are your power goals? - Dont let someone else dictate how much power you need. In a street car, on street tires, 550-600whp is a lot of power.

I'm going street toy. I wasn't listening to the sales part too much because HONESTLY I can't see myself becoming bored with 550-600 rwhp. That is enough to be able to open it up and have fun. I REALLY believe they know their stuff but I think they were being Salesmen too (the more they sell the more they make.)


Dont let someone else tell you that you're going to get bored with YOUR car. If you bolt on the Pre-Tuned HO kit and make ~550whp, you still have a TON of headroom if you get bored.

This is one of 3 things I am worried about. As long as I have plenty of room to grow the kit I don't think I need a bigger blower/fuel lines etc off the bat. Another thing I may want to do is a larger intercooler because in Texas/Oklahoma where I will be doing most of my driving Summers are 90+ with 50-90% humidity depending if I'm with family in Houston or here in Oklahoma. But I don't know if it is needed.

You really just need to decide if you want shared drive or independent drive. There is not exactly a correct answer to this, and you'll find reasonable arguments for both.

This is a worry because if a belt does break I don't want to be stranded. Even though reading that you went 50k miles with no issues makes me wonder if I am being a worry wart.

That price doesnt seem unrealistic to me, at all ... but keep in mind, with more power you might want to be prepared to replace more parts right away, clutch, etc ...

That being said with some of the vendors on here (I ordered mine from BeefCake and received it in 5 business day) you'll find that the "street price" for the complete HO kit might be a bit less ... but lets just use the price MOST vendors seem to be advertising at $5700 for the HO Kit + $300 for Stage 2 intercooler, you're at $6000

5hr install at $100/hr (Obviously you could do this yourself, some places charge a lot less than this, but lets just use that as an example)

And you're at $6500 TUNED, done. - Now, we all know you can get these kits for less than that, and you could easily install it yourself ... so really you could EASILY be at less than $6000 with ~550whp ... tuned ... with headroom later on to hit 700whp

6500 doesn't seem too bad. And seriously thanks for all the help I SUPER appreciate it!:hail:

 

[TxBornSooner]

550-600 at the wheels can be a real party in a rainstorm. Even 350-400 can be.

TxBornSooner,

Basically, what Bath550 has been saying is "think this all the way through". If not, all you may be left with looking back is "It seemed like a good idea at the time." I've had plenty of "It seemed like a good idea at the time" episodes in my life. Hurts 2 ways: Pride AND the pocketbook.

If you're sure that you've got to have the top dog charger, go for it. If you're not sure, be logical AND patient... think it all the way through.

Best of luck whatever you decide.

That is all...

Thanks I appreciate the advice. Honestly one of the reasons I'm doing all of this so far in advance is so I can learn as much as I can & not make a WTF was I thinking 5k mistake. :frusty::lol:

 

[BathS550]

6500 doesn't seem too bad. And seriously thanks for all the help I SUPER appreciate it!:hail:

Dont let someone else tell you that you're going to get bored with YOUR car. If you bolt on the Pre-Tuned HO kit and make ~550whp, you still have a TON of headroom if you get bored.

This is one of 3 things I am worried about. As long as I have plenty of room to grow the kit I don't think I need a bigger blower/fuel lines etc off the bat. Another thing I may want to do is a larger intercooler because in Texas/Oklahoma where I will be doing most of my driving Summers are 90+ with 50-90% humidity depending if I'm with family in Houston or here in Oklahoma. But I don't know if it is needed.

You really just need to decide if you want shared drive or independent drive. There is not exactly a correct answer to this, and you'll find reasonable arguments for both.

This is a worry because if a belt does break I don't want to be stranded. Even though reading that you went 50k miles with no issues makes me wonder if I am being a worry wart.

The pre-tuned Stage 2 Kit will make slightly more as it ships with a ~9psi Pulley vs the HO Kits ~8psi

I 100% agree on the interfooler upgrade if you go with the HO Kit.

Re Shared Drive: Really, your accessory drive belt can still fail on independent drive ... leaving you just as stranded as if it failed on shared drive. If you're really paranoid about it, just change it annually - its a (relatively) cheap part for peace of mind. - However if you'll feel better going independent drive, just do it, You're still going to end up in the same price range if you're ordering the complete tuned (not tuner) kits. And a few of the vendors on these forums have some KILLER pricing, which will make either option much more appealing. - You can EASILY spend less than $6500, even installed, and easily well bellow $6000 if you install it yourself.

Honestly, imho, the biggest advantage to the Stage 2 Independent Drive is the 8rib belt for better grip --- at HIGHER boost levels than either of these kits are going to be running on the head unit that they come with.

Either way you will be happy, but it sounds like you might best best saving your doll-hairs up front, and going with the Pre-Tuned HO or Stage 2 Kits (versus doing a D1 Upgrade, etc), and then making some upgrades later on down the line.

The $$$$$ you'll save will go a LONG way towards other upgrades that will make the car MUCH more enjoyable on the street:

Stickier rubber to actually get the power down
Suspension Upgrades
Wheel Hop Elimination Upgrades

 

[Waldorf]

The "Burned Out"

Thanks I appreciate the advice. Honestly one of the reasons I'm doing all of this so far in advance is so I can learn as much as I can & not make a WTF was I thinking 5k mistake. :frusty::lol:

Good call. Like the old cliche: "Learn from the mistakes of others... you can't possibly live long enough to make them all yourself". Just for giggles, here's a prime example of a WTF or YOLO and "not thinking things through":

[ame]

Game over. Hurt pride AND a hurt pocketbook. Almost as bad as a self-inflicted gunshot wound.

Good Luck with the new wheels, TxBornSooner... and watch the burnouts!

That is all...

 

[Waldorf]

One Fine Automobile

So, I picked up my 2015 GT - Performance Package - 50th - Black - in December

I now have 800 miles on the car, and have ordered, and just received:

- ProCharger Complete HO Kit with Stage 2 Intercooler
- ARH CatBack Exhaust with H Pipe
- Eibach Springs

I am waiting for BMR to complete their wheel hop elimination kit and then will, hopefully be addressing that issue. Wheels and better rubber will also both be coming shortly.

Sorry I kinda got your thread off topic earlier, but just had to say that's one fine automobile... and a fine set of pics. Thanks for the posts to help TxBornSooner, and probably quite a few others that hit this thread. I'm in the "been there done that" boat roain' an oar, but couldn't have spelled it out that well. Good luck with the wheels, and keep it clean!

I'm also waiting to see what BMR does with the lower inner bushings. My T-Bird had wheel hop problems until I got a set of lower inner poly bushings from a 2002 Cobra and "Frankensteined" them into the lower control arms. Also got a set of poly bushings for the knuckles as well - the problem went away. Didn't affect the ride much either... a little harder on the bumps, but it corners much better too. Rear obediently follows the front around the bends.

That is all...

 

[BathS550]

Sorry I kinda got your thread off topic earlier, but just had to say that's one fine automobile... and a fine set of pics. Thanks for the posts to help TxBornSooner, and probably quite a few others that hit this thread. I'm in the "been there done that" boat roain' an oar, but couldn't have spelled it out that well. Good luck with the wheels, and keep it clean!

I'm also waiting to see what BMR does with the lower inner bushings. My T-Bird had wheel hop problems until I got a set of lower inner poly bushings from a 2002 Cobra and "Frankensteined" them into the lower control arms. Also got a set of poly bushings for the knuckles as well - the problem went away. Didn't affect the ride much either... a little harder on the bumps, but it corners much better too. Rear obediently follows the front around the bends.

That is all...

hahaha, no worries; I enjoyed the video.

The wheel hop is driving me nuts. I keep almost ordering all the Steeda parts, but I want to see the BMR solution first.

Im lost on wheels ... I know all the cool kids are running concave setups and originally I was very anti-concave, however they're starting to grow on me now...

 

[Grim_Reaper]

Im lost on wheels ... I know all the cool kids are running concave setups and originally I was very anti-concave, however they're starting to grow on me now...

Right there with you on this. Originally it was "deep lip or nothing" for me but the more I look at photos of the deep lip wheels on these cars, I think the concave looks better and fits the cars modern muscle look.

 

[Apollo_1092]

Right there with you on this. Originally it was "deep lip or nothing" for me but the more I look at photos of the deep lip wheels on these cars, I think the concave looks better and fits the cars modern muscle look.

What do you mean by deep lip and concave?

 

[smokinzx14r]

I'm going with the stage one HO kit myself .. I do a lot of drag racing at the track and the cut off for no roll bar is now ( NHRA Rule Book )10.99 and 135 MPH .. I'm sure the HO kit will go faster than that so I will have to slow it down a bit .. But that should make it easier on the other parts not running it full out every pass .. The last thing I want to do is start cutting and welding on my new car by adding a roll bar .. One thing I will do is carry a extra belt in the trunk along with the tools to replace it if needed .. I did that with my blown truck ..I never lost a belt on it but it pays to be on the safe side ..

 

[Grim_Reaper]

What do you mean by deep lip and concave?

Deep lip meaning the spokes mount to the barrel of the wheel more towards the center or inside and mounts to the hub.
http://www.cruizinconceptswholesale.com/images/niche/nicheveniceblk_lg.jpg

Concave meaning the spokes mount to the barrel of the wheel at the outer edge of the wheel and then the wheels caves in towards the center where it mounts to the hub.
http://www.pyspeed.com/v/vspfiles/photos/BC-HB35-2.jpg

 

[Apollo_1092]

Deep lip meaning the spokes mount to the barrel of the wheel more towards the center or inside and mounts to the hub.
http://www.cruizinconceptswholesale.com/images/niche/nicheveniceblk_lg.jpg

Concave meaning the spokes mount to the barrel of the wheel at the outer edge of the wheel and then the wheels caves in towards the center where it mounts to the hub.
http://www.pyspeed.com/v/vspfiles/photos/BC-HB35-2.jpg

TIL. Thanks man

 

[Waldorf]

hahaha, no worries; I enjoyed the video.

The wheel hop is driving me nuts. I keep almost ordering all the Steeda parts, but I want to see the BMR solution first.

Im lost on wheels ... I know all the cool kids are running concave setups and originally I was very anti-concave, however they're starting to grow on me now...

I looked at the Steeda stuff, but I'm not so sure. The new Mustang IRS is similar to what I have in the T-Bird, but better. I can't say for a 2015 Mustang, as I don't own one yet, but with my T-Bird, I did a "CSI" of the rubber "patches" on the road. The IRS knuckle, which holds the hub and wheel bearing has two attachment points to the lower control arm and one to the upper. That keeps it from turning from side to side like the front wheels. In theory, that's great. Reality is there are rubber bushings in those attachment points and where the upper and lower control arms bolt to the sub-frame. Torque is a twisting motion, and when applied in "large quantities" makes the knucke twist (front-to-back) in the bushings. This is a T-Bird rear knuckle... arrow shows the twisting motion. Picture it on the driver's side rear standing outside the car:

​

Those are poly bushings in all 3 mounting points, but the biggie for me was getting the lower inner control arm bushings in poly. That's what caused the wheel hop in the T-Bird. IIRC, BMR has a YouTube video showing exactly that on a 2015 GT. You can see the rear lower inner control arm bushing bolt head jump up and in when they dump the clutch in the video. The knuckle more or less oscillates until either you take your foot out of it, or it finally bites.

I've got friends trying to pull strings to get me a GT350 ordered direct to by-pass the ADM, but so far, no luck. Probably end up with a new GT. Only 2 things concern me about the car (other than the damned prop rod!)... the driveshaft and wheel hop. Shaftmasters has an aluminum shaft for the GT manual and auto - I have one they made me for the T-Bird and have been happy with it for years. The other is bushings. Can't understand why Prothane or BMR or SOMEBODY hasn't come out with them yet. Just hang in there and patient. All this new car stuff is driving me nuts! Gotta commit soon... promised my 2011 to my daughter for graduation in May.

BTW, unless it's a track only car, I wouldn't recommend replacing the subframe-to-body bushings with metal spacers. It was one of my many "It seemed like a good idea at the time" moments!

A shame that the lightest weight TSW wheels don't come in gloss black. The Bathurst or Nurburgring wheels would look killer on your car in gloss black. And they'd cut down on unsprung weight too. As much as 10 lbs. per wheel.

And as a suggestion, when you get an alignment... take it to someone who KNOWS HOW TO PROPERLY DO 4 wheel IRS alignments! The rear SHOULD be done first and SQUARE to the body. Both sides, ideally should be the same measurements. Front is then aligned off the back. If the back isn't right, you're FUBAR. Also, if you have "spirited" driving in mind, have them take the front caster to the positive spec limit. A littler harder to steer in a tight turn, but seems to track better. Does for the Turd, but can't say about an IRS Mustang. My 2011's got a live rear, and doesn't really make any difference. Twist my 2011 hard and the @ss-end wants to go away. Of course, not as bad as the guy did in the video I just posted.

That is all...

 

[TxBornSooner]

Thanks for everything.. Now Back to this regularly scheduled thread.. When is everything going to be installed and Dyno'ed

 

[BathS550]

Thanks for everything.. Now Back to this regularly scheduled thread.. When is everything going to be installed and Dyno'ed

Ive been dealing with a health issue thats leaving me too tired to leave the house for more than about an hour ... like litterally walking up a flight of stairs leaves me in completely wiped out ... I'm going to try to make some progress today though...

Theres still 3ft of snow in my back yard, and its going to snow tonight ... so my motivation hasnt exactly been high.

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