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T56 Nightmare, need help

J17GT

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Tough spot there for sure. Agree it’s more likely clutch over trans. My RXT engagement just plane sucks…it’s really strange. Sometimes close to the floor other times normal pedal travel, sometimes wary up high on the pedal. I think the floater plate hangs up on the clutch disc sometimes. I am 100% confident I have zero air in my hydraulic system. Another guy I know has the same experience with his.

I do think something in my trans binds on the 1-2 up or downshift at times. It’s never locked me out, but it’s like it goes halfway in and hits a stop and just requires more effort. I can replicate that issue with the car off as well.

As I mentioned above, high rpm shifting is always fine with my setup, which leads me to believe my clutch is more the culprit than anything else. If I ever take the trans out again, the RXT is not going back in.

Good luck, lets us know how it works out.
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Angrey

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Which clutches are known to work best?
Most of the usual suspects have plenty of success stories and a few bad reviews.

If money is no object, Fathouse uses RPS clutches on virtually all of their high hp builds. Carbon-Carbon clutches have top level performance in just about every way except price (and they also need heat in order to achieve max friction).

Generally after carbon-carbon is ceremetallic and kevlar. Then ceramic, then organic.

Ironically, if you're looking for the "best" solution, organic or sintered iron are the best but don't last as long, but have nice engagement and slip well so they're good for anyone who's routinely replacing/refreshing their clutches.

The Tilton I run (twin disc strap type) holds an ass load of torque (they don't really know the true torque level because it max'd out the dyno at 1250 lbs) but the 1st gear engagement is way grabby and it chatters. Otherwise it's awesome. I honestly think most high performance clutches chatter at low rpms in high gear. It also has an extremely short engagement pedal length (which kinda goes hand in hand with grabby) and the pedal pressure/force isn't great (a little stiffer than my stock GT350 twin disc pedal force). The reason I chose the Tilton is that it's pretty tried and true in the Supra world and they've been making 4 digit power cars for couple decades now and it was relatively inexpensive (compared to some of the other premiums). Even with the expensive tilton bearing, it was considerably less than a top notch Mantic (triple disc) and way cheaper than an RPS (twin or triple carbon-carbon).
 

Grimreaper

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Got to give it one more go. :thumbsup: I'm still convinced the t56 is better. Plan to swap mine when the time comes
 

WildHorse

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t56 is better
Marginally better. And that's debatable. Personally I don't think the ratio's are good at all for coyotes. Nevermind the rear gear change, tuning, etc.

As for the MT82, Ford made a clutch for the average user, with average driving
habits, and for maximum longevity. Replace the clutch with a performance unit.

The MT82 specs are 396lb-ft at a gross weight of 9500lbs.
The trans in our weight cars will be able to handle 730+ ft lbs.
w/ all the right ratios (15-17). Tremec rates there's at 4000lbs.
 

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illtal

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For all of the problems and headaches that can go wrong with the install, I'll roll the dice with the MT82-D4. This way you can keep using off the shelf products.
 

Angrey

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Marginally better. And that's debatable. Personally I don't think the ratio's are good at all for coyotes. Nevermind the rear gear change, tuning, etc.

As for the MT82, Ford made a clutch for the average user, with average driving
habits, and for maximum longevity. Replace the clutch with a performance unit.

The MT82 specs are 396lb-ft at a gross weight of 9500lbs.
The trans in our weight cars will be able to handle 730+ ft lbs.
w/ all the right ratios (15-17). Tremec rates there's at 4000lbs.
A long format transmission is better from a number of standpoints.

The worst direct mounted shifter beats the best remote shifter 7 days a week and twice on Sunday.

The shorter drive shaft has virtually no 1/2 critical speed (aka driveline angle) vibrations and a much higher critical speed given the same diameter and materials. The connections are also stouter with the ability to use 1310/1350 joints.

The steel bellhousing allows for SFI rating (which Aluminum bells do not) which means you're better protected should the flywheel or clutch disintegrate at high rpm.

When you compare the weight of the entire system (Trans, Clutch, Driveshaft) the weight savings is not that drastic using a short format trans. (a short trans requires additional heft for the remote shifter assembly as well as 2 piece shaft with intermediate cross member to avoid the vibe issues).

Tremec set the market with beefier gear sections and shift forks, and 26 spline input shaft, Getrag is playing catchup.

The ratios on the MT aren't great either. Both have pros and cons (there is no answer to all prayers).

A moderately upgraded Magnum package costs roughly the same as the fully built MT package and as long as you haven't already upgraded the clutch/shifter/shaft.

In the end, if you've already upgraded other components, the value proposition for a Magnum drops and drops further if you're in a 2019+ with tune/management issues, but all things considered, if you're going to drop coin, the Magnum is the better choice.
 

illtal

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A long format transmission is better from a number of standpoints.

The worst direct mounted shifter beats the best remote shifter 7 days a week and twice on Sunday.

The shorter drive shaft has virtually no 1/2 critical speed (aka driveline angle) vibrations and a much higher critical speed given the same diameter and materials. The connections are also stouter with the ability to use 1310/1350 joints.

The steel bellhousing allows for SFI rating (which Aluminum bells do not) which means you're better protected should the flywheel or clutch disintegrate at high rpm.

When you compare the weight of the entire system (Trans, Clutch, Driveshaft) the weight savings is not that drastic using a short format trans. (a short trans requires additional heft for the remote shifter assembly as well as 2 piece shaft with intermediate cross member to avoid the vibe issues).

Tremec set the market with beefier gear sections and shift forks, and 26 spline input shaft, Getrag is playing catchup.

The ratios on the MT aren't great either. Both have pros and cons (there is no answer to all prayers).

A moderately upgraded Magnum package costs roughly the same as the fully built MT package and as long as you haven't already upgraded the clutch/shifter/shaft.

In the end, if you've already upgraded other components, the value proposition for a Magnum drops and drops further if you're in a 2019+ with tune/management issues, but all things considered, if you're going to drop coin, the Magnum is the better choice.
I don't know if any of these ratios really fit coyote engines very well. I also don't know if it worth the 6700 duckets that modern driveline want to run a transmission that will likely never see the abuse that it should for that kind of cash.
I mean we are 1/3 the or more to a sequential transmission depending on the brand.

If keeping the D4 becomes a mistake, I'll be the first to admit it, but either way I'll be using it in one of my cars moving forward.
Foxbody is much lighter than a S550 so it should be a great upgrade over the T5.

Knock on wood I haven't had any problems with my D4
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