T56 Nightmare, need help

[JLTH2183]

I have had the bell housing and the Mcleod RTX clutch out twice and this is the 2nd attempt to install the T56. It refuses to go all the way in. I've tried turning the engine over by hand while attempting to push the trans into place, I'm now using 2 screw jacks with a trans jack to help seat the trans into place and it just refuses to go in all the way. I can get it close enough to start the bolts but I do not want to "walk" it in by turning the bolts b/c I dont want to break anything.

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[JLTH2183]

Only other option I'm going to try tomorrow is removing the trans again, the bell housing, and clutch and instead of using the plastic clutch alignment tool I will use the input shaft of the trans to line up the clutch (Credit to Four Eyes youtube video "Installing the best manual transmission ever made. Starting at 12:16 of video -->)

 

[Angrey]

When installing mine, I did it with the engine on an engine stand and after installing the clutch for the 6th time and using the steel alignment tool as loose in and out as we could get it, I decided to do what any shop would do. I gently and carefully alternated bellhousing bolts to draw it in the last of the way.

We all know that's the wrong way to do it, but after humping on it, using wood and mallets on the end to try to drive it, I finally came to the conclusion that the handshake on the hubs/pilot was just too tight.

Gently draw it in with the bellhousing bolts. Trying to do it overhead has to be even worse.

 

[JLTH2183]

Well I removed the bell housing and aligned the clutch with the input shaft of the Trans just like in the you tube video but afterwards after re -installing the bell housing the transmission will still not go in all the way in even with 5 friends trying to help. This is so frustrating, has anyone else had any issues installing T56 please chime in with any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Angrey]

Well I removed the bell housing and aligned the clutch with the input shaft of the Trans just like in the you tube video but afterwards after re -installing the bell housing the transmission will still not go in all the way in even with 5 friends trying to help. This is so frustrating, has anyone else had any issues installing T56 please chime in with any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated.

Did you not see my post above? Ask yourself what a mechanic's shop would have done after the second attempt.

 

[AvalancheSVT]

okay so here's what you gotta do:

0. call the people you got it from for protips.
1. make sure its just not hitting something on the body
2. put it in gear and spin the output shaft in order to align the splines
3. tilt the motor backwards if you can to allow for more room (this is what i had to do on my cobra).
4. make sure the thing is going in straight.
5. if its actually slowly going in with a little tappy tap of a mallet then keep doing that.

i've used bolts to suck a trans to a motor before, just gotta be careful with that.

 

[JLTH2183]

Did you not see my post above? Ask yourself what a mechanic's shop would have done after the second attempt.

Yes I did see your post, I just don't want to break anything by drawing it in with the bolts, but if it comes down to that I will. I can get it to the dowel pins and it won't go past that point. When I had the bell housing removed before I can attach to the Trans with ease so its not the dowel pins.

 

[JLTH2183]

okay so here's what you gotta do:

0. call the people you got it from for protips.
1. make sure its just not hitting something on the body
2. put it in gear and spin the output shaft in order to align the splines
3. tilt the motor backwards if you can to allow for more room (this is what i had to do on my cobra).
4. make sure the thing is going in straight.
5. if its actually slowly going in with a little tappy tap of a mallet then keep doing that.

i've used bolts to suck a trans to a motor before, just gotta be careful with that.

If I can't get it in today after work I will definitely call lethal or tremec but I feel like there going to tell me the same tips but it's worth a call or 2

I have tried turning the engine over by hand at the same time having some friends wiggle and push on the Trans. I'll try spinning the output shaft with it in gear to see if that helps.

We have tried tilting the motor as well. I installed long tubes at the same time doing the T56 and right now if I tilt the motor it makes contact with the steering shaft so I will remove that to see if I can tilt it some more.

I've even used a borescope camera to make sure the input shaft is going straight into the clutch assembly.

I've measured the depth of the clutch assembly to the pilot bearing and the length of the input shaft to slave cylinder to make sure it's the same.

Tapping with a mallet doesn't do anything it's like hitting a cement wall.

This is my first time installing a twin disk/ dual clutch. BUT I have had dozens and dozens of Transmissions taken out and reinstalled and done plenty of single disk clutch jobs and never had this hard of a time. That's what makes it so frustrating, especially on my own car. Installing the VMP Odin was a walk in the park compared to this.

 

[AvalancheSVT]

when i get stuck on stupid simple issues i walk away for a while.
maybe that's the best advice i can give. just walk away for a day or two.

 

[JLTH2183]

After a long day at work yesterday I finally gave it another shot. I removed bell housing and lossened pressure plate and this time using another clutch alignment tool and eye balling the center the best I could and with the help of 5 others we finally got the Trans to line up all the way to the bell housing flush! What a PITA. Hopefully the hard part is done. I installed the cross member and the trans seems to be closer to the left hand side of the tunnel than I'd like. It's really tight on the left side especially on the reverse lockout solenoid side. But reading up on this before hand I did dimple the metal on that side of the tunnel underneath the heat shielding material ahead of time before installing the Trans so hopefully I'm good. I installed the driveshaft and afterwards when I went to bleed the clutch the plastic elbow with the clip keeps popping out the line when I press the pedal so idk if I need to replace the whole elbow or just the clip, it seems kind of weak, I tried installing it twice and everytime I pump the pedal the line pops out of the top of it. Does anyone make a metal one or is there an alternative adapter that can connect the slave cylinder to the braided line?

 

[Angrey]

After a long day at work yesterday I finally gave it another shot. I removed bell housing and lossened pressure plate and this time using another clutch alignment tool and eye balling the center the best I could and with the help of 5 others we finally got the Trans to line up all the way to the bell housing flush! What a PITA. Hopefully the hard part is done. I installed the cross member and the trans seems to be closer to the left hand side of the tunnel than I'd like. It's really tight on the left side especially on the reverse lockout solenoid side. But reading up on this before hand I did dimple the metal on that side of the tunnel underneath the heat shielding material ahead of time before installing the Trans so hopefully I'm good. I installed the driveshaft and afterwards when I went to bleed the clutch the plastic elbow with the clip keeps popping out the line when I press the pedal so idk if I need to replace the whole elbow or just the clip, it seems kind of weak, I tried installing it twice and everytime I pump the pedal the line pops out of the top of it. Does anyone make a metal one or is there an alternative adapter that can connect the slave cylinder to the braided line?

Just buy the $100 reverse solenoid delete. You'll thank me. Works like a charm and not cutting of shielding or beating on the tunnel.

 

[Angrey]

Nevermind looks like ebay and amazon sells them.

I used the stiffer spring. It's kinda hard to test out fully, without it being in the car. The stiffer spring feels fine to me, you'll want it to be more difficult than the 5-6 gate

 

[JLTH2183]

I used the stiffer spring. It's kinda hard to test out fully, without it being in the car. The stiffer spring feels fine to me, you'll want it to be more difficult than the 5-6 gate

Okay thank you. I had to order the factory plastic clutch line to get a new elbow connection piece ($25 not horrible) b/c it's not sold separately. Hopefully it will get here tomorrow.

 

[JLTH2183]

Got everything back together, loaded the new tune, started the car, did a crank relearn, but every time I put it in reverse to back out of the bay, the engine stalls... It does not stall if I put it any other gear. Reverse lights work. I can connect to the bowler harness via the app. Is it simply a setting I need to change?

 

[JLTH2183]

Spoke with Bolwer, was told all my wires are correct but to try run dedicated power and ground instead.

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