SYNC 3 swap, It's all in here

[xargon321]

Has anyone had problems getting applink to work on android? i have a note 9 connect it to bluetooth and disable android auto enable applink and it dont find apps at all on my phone i know i have some that work with applink but it dont find them at all

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[CrashOverride]

Just wanted to say thank you to HextallS550 and Spart (And others) for helping me through the install. HextallS550, tried to PM you but it won't let me.

I did my install a little different than this because I also wired up an alpine KT-445U amp. Here would be my tips to those that haven't done this yet.

1. Buy lots of the extra clips, I probably broke 5. I ordered 3 initially, but someone in this thread posted an ebay link to buy a bag of 100 of these guys. Very much worth it. As a matter of fact, I have a lot left, so if you need some, PM me and I can send you some for free. They are orange, not yellow or blue, but fit great.
2. I did the pin it method, and first off, don't be stupid like me and try it. Just go with the harness. I was driving my truck for over a week because I had the entire dash tore apart while I was crimping and so on.
3. If you choose to ignore my advice, I bought the following crimper and it worked well, once I destroyed several terminals until I got the hang of it. I bought 30 of the Tyco and 30 of the JST connectors. For how cheap they were, I would get 50 each.
4. For the primary wire, don't be dumb like me and buy the more expensive "silicone" wire that Amazon sells. The insulation is thicker, and the wires are more "limp" than normal, cheaper primary wire, and combined make it a lot harder to fit the @^&% terminals into the connector.
5. I used the following butane soldering iron. It worked pretty good. It was more powerful than the Wen and Weller soldering irons I already had.
6. For wiring up my amp, I used this CNC controller wire I found on ebay. It has nine 14-awg stranded conductors, plus it is shielded with a drain wire. Yes it is thick, and not super flexible, but because it is shielded, it makes interference less likely.
7. I wanted to make it as clean of an install as possible, so I repinned the speaker outs of the ACM with the JST connectors I crimped on my CNC controller wire, ran the wire to the amp, and then on the return run (Back to where the ACM is to re-connect to the speaker wires), I used this connector set.
8. I pulled power from Fuse 27 in the passenger footwell fusebox (30A, for factory multichannel Amp). I used a tap with a single 15A fuse, since the existing one was pointless because I had a base system. I grabbed my remote turn-on wire from the cigarette lighter near the ACM (Thanks Spart!) and in Forscan coded it to a 1 second delay, which basically make it work just like the factory radio...shuts off when the door is opened.
9. I will say this, Ford designed the entire dash to not allow you to mount the KT445U anywhere. I tried for literally hours to get it to fit behind the ACM. If the amp was 1/4 of an inch smaller in any direction, it would have worked. My brand new amp is all gouged from me trying and my hands are full of small cuts. I didn't want the amp in the glovebox, and although there is room to "hang" it up in the space above the driver's footwell, it isn't safe and I wouldn't do it. There is not enough vertical space to mount under the seats...It will work, but it will rub the seat and that's not cool for me. In the end, I bought a factory amp on ebay, only for the tray. I drilled 3 of the 4 mounting holes for the KT445U amp (Once again, the KT445U is about 1/4 inch too tall to mount all 4 screws. Once mounted to the amp, you need two m6x1.00 bolts. I found two I had that were flanged. Tye were probably 20mm long. I mounted the amp so the output side/fuse was at the top (Not readily accessible) but the bottom, where the inputs were (And the gain dials are) so they can be tweaked. I have the gain dialed in about 3 o'clock (25% gain) and I like it. I don't like that it has a little crackle when it first turns on and turns off, but it is a known fault of the KT445U - I didn't know it when I bought it.
10. I bought my parts from a mustang. I did not get the VIN from the reseller, something I was pretty pissed about. Spart has a post on how to decode the VIN of the bezel. For you geeks out there it is ASCII characters in hexadecimal. I registered that VIN as another vehicle so that I can get updates...I figure the car was totalled, and since the bezel was sold, it was probably the same ACM and Screen (It was a bundle), so I wouldn't be "screwing" an owner by claiming it was mine. My Sync3 unit was running version 1.0. I ran the update for 3.0 and it worked great, no Mem_003 errors. I do not have a nav unit, so I was expecting to get the error.
11. The HD and Sirius works great.
12. The GPS antenna reads backwards. I tried 2 different antennae and I made a large sheetmetal antenna ground, but it still didn't work. This is probably my own fault though - I cut open the old GPSM unit and soldered my wires to that instead of stripping the wires as HextallS550 clearly said to do. The onus was on me. I'm throwing it out there for any other mavericks who want to try it.
13. With the amp install, I went through an entire roll of tesa tape. I would recommend to get 2 rolls if you are OCD/Anal Retentive with your wiring.
14. I can't think of any other tips right now.

Thanks again HextallS550 and Spart, and all the Forscan people for the spreadsheet, as well as the instructions.

 

[josephstef]

@CrashOverride in regards to the orange clips, they don't seem to hold down as well as the blue ones.
I noticed at the top of the panel where the ac vents are there's a gap forming. When you push it back in it would pop out so i ended up putting all the blue clips i could find around the vents, and then put the orange ones on the rest of the panel.

 

[CrashOverride]

Maybe use them for the lesser panels LOL. They seemed to work fine for me, and yeah I broke quite a few near the AC vents, so I guess time will tell on how well they hold.

 

[CrashOverride]

His site is here if you can't get a hold of him:

https://www.facebook.com/HarnessByHextall

 

[Greek6486]

After doing the 4" sync to 8" sync 3 install, has anyone upgraded the seats to the OEM ones and hooked up the heat and cooling? If so, what does that entail?

 

[ts03691]

People looking to swap from base to Sync 3 or MFT to Sync 3 BE CAREFUL of eBay HU5Z hub resellers. I have had 3 people in the past two weeks purchase hubs (that were supposed to be genuine Ford) come to them in either plastic bags or brown cardboard boxes. AVOID THESE AT ALL COST. One of my FB customers bricked his APIM.

Oh man....I was on page 40 of this thread two days ago when I ordered that off of Ebay as I thought it was a factory part. Have been reading the rest of this thread and just got to this. Hopefully I can cancel my Ebay order. Actually have the hub out of the donor car but the salvage yard person dropped it and kicked it across the lot. Once I got it home I noticed the sticker on ti that said "Scrap if dropped" so decided to buy a new one. Thanks for the heads up and all the useful information you and others have provided here. Have had my car for two months and this is my first Mustang and the information on this forum is tremendous.

 

[Nagare]

After doing the 4" sync to 8" sync 3 install, has anyone upgraded the seats to the OEM ones and hooked up the heat and cooling? If so, what does that entail?

That's a much larger harness/module swap and adding ventilation (I believe, can't imagine they'd have it there on base cars).

 

[Greek6486]

So whatever I need isn't built into the seats? I figured it was just an electric hookup and something that attaches to the head unit

 

[Nagare]

I don't believe it would be, but don't quote me on that. It is part electric hook up/Forscan programming and part A/C system hookup. if it was just fans in the seat itself, it would be easy but it wouldn't really be cooled seats without something pushing in from the A/C right?

 

[Todesengel]

Hey Guys,

I updated truck to the SYNC 3 module using this thread. However, I have a problem with the GPS location. It shows about a 1/2 mile down the road. It's as if the latitude is correct, but the longitude is way off. I held the FF (>>) and eject button, the satellite signals show full. However, if I go to the apim/location diagnostics, lock is false and everything about the gps is blank. I did NOT disconnect the factory sync 2 gps, just the added one. Any ideas what could be wrong? You can see from the picture of the GPS, I'm actually on Country Road 100, but it has me out in a field.

 

[Nagare]

If you didn't disconnect the old one, how did you connect the new one?

 

[Todesengel]

If you didn't disconnect the old one, how did you connect the new one?

The old one is connected to the harness, the new one is a fakra connector on back of the unit.

 

[josephstef]

The old one is connected to the harness, the new one is a fakra connector on back of the unit.

hey mate, I had to disconnect my old one which got rid of some compass issues. If you disconnect it and your compass works on the dash you don't need it.

Secondly I had to purchase so many damn gps aerials until I found one that works. They are ultra sensitive!!! have you got a DTC code for GPS circuit open?

 

[mustang6t9]

Completed my swap over to SYNC 3 over the weekend. Used the harness from Hextall which was excellent quality. Made the swap completely plug and play. Spent a out 5 hours on the job. Took my time, no broken clips. Wire tied everything nice so as not to have any dash rattles. Programming everything was not as bad as I thought having not done it before, everything seems to work well. Big thanks to Hextall for making this possible.

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