Suspension upgrades - anything else?

[Usmcklinej]

2016 GTPP

I’ve lurked on the similar suspension threads on here as long as I could.

Here’s the list of things taking up space in my living room...

FRM-18000-f Track Strut & Shock Kit
BMR SP083 Handling Springs
BMR SM760 Rear Upper Shock Mount
BMR CP001 Camber Plates
BMR TCA048 Vertical Links
STEEDA 555-4915 Lateral Link & Bump Steer Kit
STEEDA 555-1042 Adjustable Endlinks
STEEDA 555-4117 Rear Lower Control Arm Spherical Bushings

So before the car goes under the knife in the coming weeks, do you guys suggest anything else that isn’t on this list? Or anything that will make install easier, issues I can expect to run into?

Thanks a lot, everyone!

Especially to BmacIL and Bluemustang for the wealth of info you guys have shared here!

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[Usmcklinej]

BMR front swaybar. Great list of parts! You will really enjoy that setup.

This is my first endeavor into anything but straight line speed - that being said, you’re thinking the pp sway bars are going to be my weak link in this combination?

 

[Usmcklinej]

Thoughts on picking up any of these?

Adjustable rear toe links

Jounce Bumper Kit

Steeda subframe alignment Kit

and as far as sway bars go, any reason to go with BMR over Steeda, Ford Racing, or a GT350 bar?

 

[DeepImpactCoyote15]

Ford Performance Knuckle to Toe Link Bearing i've heard is a great small addition! Didn't see it listed here

Just as i'm not familiar with the mod, what benefit do the adjustable sway bar endlinks have?

 

[khsonic03]

Probably one of the most important things is the CB005 if you don't have it. Also second the ford rear toe bearing.

 

[Usmcklinej]

Just as i'm not familiar with the mod, what benefit do the adjustable sway bar endlinks have?

Explanation from the Steeda site...
“a lot of you have lowered your cars are planned to lower your car very soon and when you do this you inadvertently change the position of the sway bar. It changes the angle of the arms. Our adjustable end links will allow you to bring that back to the factory angle and this will bring back the effectiveness of the sway bar. Whether it be a factory bar or aftermarket bars. The adjustability of our endlinks is also paramount when used in conjunction with adjustable sway bars like ours. Where you can adjust it from a stiffer position to a middle position to a softer position and with each of these positions means you may need to adjust the length of the end link.”

to be honest these were not actually on my initial suspension wish list but, they popped up in the classifieds here for pretty cheap so I decided to pick them up.

I saw your thread here as well, looks like we’re in a similar boat. Thanks for the toe link bearing suggestion, I’ll take a look into that tonight.
This is my first try at making a mustang handle, so if I learn anything that I think might help I’ll hop on over to your thread and spread the word!

 

[DeepImpactCoyote15]

Explanation from the Steeda site...
“a lot of you have lowered your cars are planned to lower your car very soon and when you do this you inadvertently change the position of the sway bar. It changes the angle of the arms. Our adjustable end links will allow you to bring that back to the factory angle and this will bring back the effectiveness of the sway bar. Whether it be a factory bar or aftermarket bars. The adjustability of our endlinks is also paramount when used in conjunction with adjustable sway bars like ours. Where you can adjust it from a stiffer position to a middle position to a softer position and with each of these positions means you may need to adjust the length of the end link.”

to be honest these were not actually on my initial suspension wish list but, they popped up in the classifieds here for pretty cheap so I decided to pick them up.

I saw your thread here as well, looks like we’re in a similar boat. Thanks for the toe link bearing suggestion, I’ll take a look into that tonight.
This is my first try at making a mustang handle, so if I learn anything that I think might help I’ll hop on over to your thread and spread the word!

HMM okay I would like to here from some of the experienced members on this mod and the real world benefits, I imagine its an important small part of the front suspension puzzle. Picked up for cheap? Thats a no brainer, don't blame ya

Yeah we sure are! Decisions for both of us. I'll do the same to you and stay tuned to your thread.

 

[khsonic03]

HMM okay I would like to here from some of the experienced members on this mod and the real world benefits, I imagine its an important small part of the front suspension puzzle. Picked up for cheap? Thats a no brainer, don't blame ya

Yeah we sure are! Decisions for both of us. I'll do the same to you and stay tuned to your thread.

My 2 cents - While the adjustable endlinks are great (not knocking them), it's probably not one of the first mods you need to do. The main purpose of adjustable endlinks is for removing any preload that may be on the swaybars (or in some cases adding preload). They are often used in corner balancing to shift weight of the car. Preload is essentially when there is tension on the swaybar while the car is at rest on a flat surface.

*Edit: Forgot to mention that if you have a Performance Pack mustang, the swaybar is bonded to the bushings, so lowering does create preload if your struts don't have an adjusted endlink mounting point and therefore would make the adjustable endlinks more desirable. Coilovers have even more of an effect because the manufacturer can't account for the lowering difference with a single mounting point.

So typically not something you need right off the bat, unless you are racing or have a chassis/swaybar out of whack. Agree with what Steeda is saying in terms of the angle of the swaybar changing relative to the chassis, but the impacts from that are not huge unless you are slammed. Oh and one other benefit is that they are typically beefier rod-ends or balljoints, so if you have aftermarket swaybars that are set really stiff, it can help there too.

In regard to an earlier question about the steeda subframe alignment bushings. They are nice if you plan on doing future rear suspension mods/work because they allow the subframe to be mounted back to the exact location it was, thus minimizing any alignment changes. They also make a set of those bushings that are designed to work with the BMR CB005. Again though, the bushings are not "necessary".

 

[Biggsy]

2016 GTPP

I’ve lurked on the similar suspension threads on here as long as I could.

Here’s the list of things taking up space in my living room...

FRM-18000-f Track Strut & Shock Kit
BMR SP083 Handling Springs
BMR SM760 Rear Upper Shock Mount
BMR CP001 Camber Plates
BMR TCA048 Vertical Links
STEEDA 555-4915 Lateral Link & Bump Steer Kit
STEEDA 555-1042 Adjustable Endlinks
STEEDA 555-4117 Rear Lower Control Arm Spherical Bushings

So before the car goes under the knife in the coming weeks, do you guys suggest anything else that isn’t on this list? Or anything that will make install easier, issues I can expect to run into?

Thanks a lot, everyone!

Especially to BmacIL and Bluemustang for the wealth of info you guys have shared here!

That RLCA bearing might be the worst part of the install. Some people have access to a heavy duty shop press and some just take it into a shop.

If it is your daily, I would suggest picking up a set from parts farm for $50 per side and have a shop press them in that way when it comes to install, you can just swap out the entire arm no problem. It is something most people dont do because of the work involved.

 

[DeepImpactCoyote15]

That RLCA bearing might be the worst part of the install. Some people have access to a heavy duty shop press and some just take it into a shop.

If it is your daily, I would suggest picking up a set from parts farm for $50 per side and have a shop press them in that way when it comes to install, you can just swap out the entire arm no problem. It is something most people dont do because of the work involved.

Thanks for this info, I was curious and do not like taking my car into the shop, so I will take the arm off and have it done! I really didn't want to avoid this great mod.

 

[Biggsy]

Thanks for this info, I was curious and do not like taking my car into the shop, so I will take the arm off and have it done! I really didn't want to avoid this great mod.

No problem and make sure the shop has at least a 20 ton press because one shop I took it to maxed out their press and couldn't get it. I dont know what press they had but it is something to consider

 

[shogun32]

That RLCA bearing might be the worst part of the install. Some people have access to a heavy duty shop press and some just take it into a shop.

even shops don't like to do that work. What would probably help is localized heating of the casting when pressing the old one out, and freezing the new bearing for install.

I ended up with a couple pairs of tow-link bearings by mistake so if you need some, PM me.

 

[NightmareMoon]

even shops don't like to do that work. What would probably help is localized heating of the casting when pressing the old one out, and freezing the new bearing for install.

I ended up with a couple pairs of tow-link bearings by mistake so if you need some, PM me.

Tempered aluminum doesn’t take heat well - it looses it’s temper, then you have as nice big paperweight. I actually tried heating mine to get it out. It worked but the hole permanently enlarged and the new bearing would just drop out. Probably made the part structurally weak and unsafe too. Car sat stuck on my mechanic’s lift for a couple of days while a new Ford control arm shipped.

Expensive mistake but I now know not to use heat on tempered aluminum.

 

[shogun32]

Expensive mistake but I now know not to use heat on tempered aluminum.

fair point. But just how hot did you heat it? I'm talking about hot enough to not hold it but not as high as boiling water. Say 150-180F.

 

[TeeLew]

If you need to heat AL, use a heat gun, not a torch.

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