Subwoofer

[MO1182]

Anyone add a sub? Only one I see is the JL stealth box but those are $. i Don’t believe the shaker sub would work.

Sponsored

 

[Evolvd]

Your question has been addressed by multiple people in a myriad of ways over in the Infotainment sub-forum. Check it out and you’ll find a ton of info.

 

[Fred Larson]

I added a 8” Rockford Fosgate powered sub to my prior 2015 and it sounded great. Much better than the optional B&O system on my 2022 GT.

 

[Blwnsmoke]

Anyone add a sub? Only one I see is the JL stealth box but those are $. i Don’t believe the shaker sub would work.

Here is what I did.. got their box and amp rack. Bought my own JL sub.

https://store.audiodesignscg.com/fi...=18&syear=464&cfm=Ford&cfmo= Mustang&cfy=2018

 

[DougS550]

Anyone add a sub? Only one I see is the JL stealth box but those are $. i Don’t believe the shaker sub would work.

I added a non ported beach wood custom fit in trunk sub box with 2 each 10" dual voice coil woofers, 2400watt class D amplifier. It was crazy ass powerful for me. Used it two days before I removed it and installed the JL box. I plan on selling it when I get motivated to do do. But, the JL is a great sub, but it wont pop your rear window out. Good luck

Anyone add a sub? Only one I see is the JL stealth box but those are $. i Don’t believe the shaker sub would work.

 

[Ben James]

Just my two cents....

My OEM system was the premium with the Shaker sub setup. When I took the entire sound system out and replaced them I found out some things...

A set of Focal K2 3 ways up front, K2 coaxials in the back, through a Helix P Six Ultimate amplifier with NO subwoofer and a little extra sound proofing is soooooo much better than the OEM system even with the OEM subwoofer. It had more sub bass than the OEM system despite having no sub.

The OEM shaker sub has next to nothing below 50hz... at all... I didn't realize how crap the OEM system was until I had just replaced the factory amp, fronts, rears (with no centre channel or sub), and it sounded awesome.

If Ford just had a quality set of speakers in the OEM spots they could have gotten away without the need for a subwoofer. I guess it comes down to marketing....

If you want to add a sub into a system which doesn't have one from factory I think there's been a few issues with regards to the OEM head unit not providing enough sub bass signal unless its settings have been changed in FORScan.

 

[Decible]

Just my two cents....

My OEM system was the premium with the Shaker sub setup. When I took the entire sound system out and replaced them I found out some things...

A set of Focal K2 3 ways up front, K2 coaxials in the back, through a Helix P Six Ultimate amplifier with NO subwoofer and a little extra sound proofing is soooooo much better than the OEM system even with the OEM subwoofer. It had more sub bass than the OEM system despite having no sub.

The OEM shaker sub has next to nothing below 50hz... at all... I didn't realize how crap the OEM system was until I had just replaced the factory amp, fronts, rears (with no centre channel or sub), and it sounded awesome.

If Ford just had a quality set of speakers in the OEM spots they could have gotten away without the need for a subwoofer. I guess it comes down to marketing....

If you want to add a sub into a system which doesn't have one from factory I think there's been a few issues with regards to the OEM head unit not providing enough sub bass signal unless its settings have been changed in FORScan.

Ben,

how do you like the Helix amp? I’ve been looking into it.

 

[Ben James]

The best decision I ever made

the associated software is excellent, however I do warn that you’ll go from wanting a good system to going insane trying to achieve absolute nirvana. Almost all of the Car audio SQ tutorials feature the Helix software when they make adjustments so that should tell you something

I’ve spent countless hours making little adjustments here and there, not because there was anything wrong but it has opened a world of possibilities that I once could only dream of.

At car audio SQ comps I used to care what an old, disgruntled, unfit competitor or judge used to think. I don’t care about that stuff anymore… I am just in absolute awe of my sound system.

as I sit and write this…. My wife has yet again stollen my Stang for her long drive to work, just to listen to her favorite songs on the way. She used to hate how much I spent on audio until I finally finished the system and she heard it for the first time. I vividly remember her getting goosebumps and her eyes welling up as she listened to ‘Goodbye’- by Ramsey.

lol just get it!!!! It’s a must have!!!

 

[Tecronix]

Just my two cents....

My OEM system was the premium with the Shaker sub setup. When I took the entire sound system out and replaced them I found out some things...

A set of Focal K2 3 ways up front, K2 coaxials in the back, through a Helix P Six Ultimate amplifier with NO subwoofer and a little extra sound proofing is soooooo much better than the OEM system even with the OEM subwoofer. It had more sub bass than the OEM system despite having no sub.

The OEM shaker sub has next to nothing below 50hz... at all... I didn't realize how crap the OEM system was until I had just replaced the factory amp, fronts, rears (with no centre channel or sub), and it sounded awesome.

If Ford just had a quality set of speakers in the OEM spots they could have gotten away without the need for a subwoofer. I guess it comes down to marketing....

If you want to add a sub into a system which doesn't have one from factory I think there's been a few issues with regards to the OEM head unit not providing enough sub bass signal unless its settings have been changed in FORScan.

Quick question, if you don’t mind. I have no idea about sound systems but was reading through a bunch of stuff on here and wondered; can I just grab the rear speaker lines, put them into a small two channel amp, and run better coaxial 6.5s in the factory position and get a ton more sound out of the rear end without going through all the stuff other people are talking about on here? I’m just looking for a little more punch from the rear while adding some “fullness” with the added dome tweeter. Something like the Auditor RCX-165’s. Appreciate any feedback.

 

[Ben James]

Quick question, if you don’t mind. I have no idea about sound systems but was reading through a bunch of stuff on here and wondered; can I just grab the rear speaker lines, put them into a small two channel amp, and run better coaxial 6.5s in the factory position and get a ton more sound out of the rear end without going through all the stuff other people are talking about on here? I’m just looking for a little more punch from the rear while adding some “fullness” with the added dome tweeter. Something like the Auditor RCX-165’s. Appreciate any feedback.

Yep. If you can find an amp that will accept a ‘high’ input (use the speaker wiring into the amp), you can amplify the rear signals and boost them, providing an output to some aftermarket speakers.

Before hooking up an amp though, you may be surprised to find that the Focal Auditor series of speakers are actually quite efficient and will play a little louder than the original speakers even off the OEM amp inputs.

Put a bit of sound deadening on the rear shelf and maybe alleviate some of the holes that cover the speakers in the OEM rear shelf carpet and it’ll give it a bit more room to breathe.

The shape of the mustang is great for throwing the rear sound forward without being too overbearing

Here’s a recent video from Car Audio Fabrication that discusses this topic a little further for info purposes

 

[Evolvd]

Quick question, if you don’t mind. I have no idea about sound systems but was reading through a bunch of stuff on here and wondered; can I just grab the rear speaker lines, put them into a small two channel amp, and run better coaxial 6.5s in the factory position and get a ton more sound out of the rear end without going through all the stuff other people are talking about on here? I’m just looking for a little more punch from the rear while adding some “fullness” with the added dome tweeter. Something like the Auditor RCX-165’s. Appreciate any feedback.

Yep you can do that as have many on this forum. You should be aware though that the rear channels have a bass roll off and are equalized with the stock amp. So hooking up a sub using high-level inputs from the rear won’t give you the low end you’re looking for, it’s more of a mid bass band pass.

 

[Tecronix]

Yep you can do that as have many on this forum. You should be aware though that the rear channels have a bass roll off and are equalized with the stock amp. So hooking up a sub using high-level inputs from the rear won’t give you the low end you’re looking for, it’s more of a mid bass band pass.

Just looking for the rear to keep up with the door woofers. They just seem sooo weak.

 

[Tecronix]

Yep. If you can find an amp that will accept a ‘high’ input (use the speaker wiring into the amp), you can amplify the rear signals and boost them, providing an output to some aftermarket speakers.

Before hooking up an amp though, you may be surprised to find that the Focal Auditor series of speakers are actually quite efficient and will play a little louder than the original speakers even off the OEM amp inputs.

Put a bit of sound deadening on the rear shelf and maybe alleviate some of the holes that cover the speakers in the OEM rear shelf carpet and it’ll give it a bit more room to breathe.

The shape of the mustang is great for throwing the rear sound forward without being too overbearing

Here’s a recent video from Car Audio Fabrication that discusses this topic a little further for info purposes

Great info. So if I understand right, I’ll need an amp that has a built in DSP? Like my other reply I just want to bring the rears up to the power level of the lower door speakers. Already hooked them up and punched out the holes. if I fade it slightly rearward it does sound a lot “more full” but still lacks power in the rear.

 

[Evolvd]

Just looking for the rear to keep up with the door woofers. They just seem sooo weak.

Here’s my personal experience and opinion if you want it. Sound deadening. Adding sound treatment to the doors makes a significant difference in the OEM system. The 6.5” mid bass have more punch and and provides a deeper sound. If budget is a concern just doing this alone makes a huge difference and can be done at home by amateurs.

As for the amp, it does NOT need to be a DSP. There are non DSP amps that accept high-level input.

 

[Tecronix]

Great info. So if I understand right, I’ll need an amp that has a built in DSP? Like my other reply I just want to bring the rears up to the power level of the lower door speakers. Already hooked them up and punched out the holes. if I fade it slightly rearward it does sound a lot “more full” but still lacks power in the rear.

Looking at infinity primus 6002A

Sponsored