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I tested it using a signal generator app. I listened to it wired through the usb when I noticed the lack in bass past 60-65hz, then when I went to wireless the bass response was all the way down past 20hz. I first noticed a difference when I was listening to music on my Tidal app wired in to...

So… I went and bought a brand new aftermarket cable and thought I do some experimenting. the bass rolls off in the exact place as the original cable, so I’m ruling it out as the cause. It has to be the Apple CarPlay algorithm, which I have tested as having a 24db at 65hz high pass applied...

Weird… I’m using the OEM iPhone cable… I think I have another aftermarket cable laying around somewhere… I’ll change it over and see if there’s a difference.

I’m not sure if this has been mentioned in the forums already, but I was playing around with sub bass tone sweeps from my iPhone and discovered something interesting. When I was doing bass sweeps wirelessly I had no problems going all the way down to 20hz which was playing through the subs as...

For reference, when I replaced my battery with a lithium unit I was able to calculate the parasitic loss over a 2 week period (double locked). From memory it worked out to be about 10 ampere hours per day. The battery we were testing it holds 24000Ah so we estimated it would be able to sit...

Hey, just saw your post. It will be the OEM amp. I had a similar noise which I heard mostly in the sub, even when the OEM stereo system was off. I replaced the OEM amp with an aftermarket 6 channel and the problem disappeared. The OEM Audio Visual Interface Module is amazing and has a...

Ok I’m officially going insane, got the ass up again looking for that elusive rattling!!! geez I hope I find something…. Something easy and cheap…

yep I’ve found that on the past and I’ve deadened it with Dynamat, as well as all of the exhaust heat shrouds at the same time as the headers and exhaust went on. The sound wasn’t apparent until after I did a major car audio install which put about 80 pounds extra in the rear… maybe I’ve just...

I’ve got a similar issue which is a rattle/clunking which sounds like metal on plastic thudding coming seemingly from the rear wheel wells (but can’t hear it from outside), whenever I go over small potholes. Sounds almost like a panel under the car is a bit loose but I’ve checked all of the...

Took a snapshot of my setup (just using a battery app) and it doesn’t show any parasitic current draw, although I’m not sure how accurate it can be with small amounts. Usually it will show up on the app if there’s 0.5 amp of draw I know for sure. move got the premium version 2018 S550 with...

I’d love to be able to see what is going on in a lot of the production lines with the current state of play worldwide… I remember frantically sourcing as much different components as I could back in January 2020 because I thought that there would be issues down the line in manufacturing…. I...

That’s some pretty epic kit you’ve got going in there by the way. I can’t wait until it’s all up and running :handsinair:

I’m not sure if it will help much but these are the settings we have for the Helix DSP software. You can see in the first pic we use the front left RCA input 3 times to form the high/mid/low left outputs (and we do the same for the right front stage). There’s separate rear RCA inputs that are...

I thought that the DM-810 could assign the same signal inputs as already used and use them for additional outputs? So I would have thought that you could use the RCA input from left front (group A) and add an additional line to form another channel, and use RCA right front the same? From my...

Yeah man I would love to hear your system! It’s a system of the gods 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻 Unfortunately I’ve got no idea on dealing with the active noise cancellation situation that some people may have. Hopefully it’s something that’s been dealt with elsewhere on these forums. In a few months I’ll be...

I absolutely love JL Audio’s stuff!!! I’ve never had a bad item from them and they seem to punch well above their weight. The JL Audio DSP software is great and you can get a mobile phone app to tweak little things on the fly. About the Helix P Six Ultimate, it really is phenomenal but you’ll...

The Primus 6002A would be a great match 👍🏼, compact and can take up to 15v speaker input for signal. This is the exact same amp as the JBL Stage A6002 just with a different cover plate so just pick the cheaper one:sunglasses:

Yep. If you can find an amp that will accept a ‘high’ input (use the speaker wiring into the amp), you can amplify the rear signals and boost them, providing an output to some aftermarket speakers. Before hooking up an amp though, you may be surprised to find that the Focal Auditor series of...