Subwoofers Second Battery or Alternator

[Kevin65469]

I’ve got my subwoofers working now but when they start hitting my voltage goes from 14.4 to 12.4, and when I’m driving it dips even lower and makes my whole radio and cluster flicker off and then back on. Would it not dip if I get a second battery to my amp or better for a 240 amp alternator.

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[StangTime]

How old is the battery in your car and what sort of power are you running to your subs?

 

[Joshwhite183]

I’ve got my subwoofers working now but when they start hitting my voltage goes from 14.4 to 12.4, and when I’m driving it dips even lower and makes my whole radio and cluster flicker off and then back on. Would it not dip if I get a second battery to my amp or better for a 240 amp alternator.

Honestly, I haven't upgraded the Mustang's audio yet, so I'm drawing from past/current experiences from other stereos. My Tahoe has 800w to the highs and a separate amp with 2500w to the sub. I added an Optima yellow top and replaced the alternator with a Mechman". I honestly don't remember the wattage, but I believe it's 340w? I work nights but I can look this evening when I get up if it will help.

 

[Kevin65469]

Honestly, I haven't upgraded the Mustang's audio yet, so I'm drawing from past/current experiences from other stereos. My Tahoe has 800w to the highs and a separate amp with 2500w to the sub. I added an Optima yellow top and replaced the alternator with a Mechman". I honestly don't remember the wattage, but I believe it's 340w? I work nights but I can look this evening when I get up if it will help.

I had this exact same setup in my 2014 Scion tC before I traded it in and it worked perfectly fine with a 5 year old battery no upgraded alternator, it’s a Skar 2000rms amp And a 1/0 wiring kit

 

[Kevin65469]

How old is the battery in your car and what sort of power are you running to your subs?

Battery is new and it’s a 1/0 wiring kit with a 2000 rms Skar amp. Here’s the link to what I have in it

https://www.skaraudio.com/collectio...-packages/products/evl-2x12d4-rp2000-skar0anl

 

[Angrey]

High output alternator will help, but just know that "high output" sometimes means simply smaller pulley to spin the unit harder (reducing service life).

Larger battery reservoir or a deep cycle will help too but if you're not allowing it to recharge fully, it's just gonna delay the inevitable. So you'll either need to put it on a charger (like you would a boat) between drives or run the car/alternator long enough without the full load so the battery can recover.

By the way, loading all the way until stuff starts failing or faltering is bad. Like really bad for a wide range of reasons. I'd get it addressed soon.

 

[Decible]

Funny someone asked this. I was looking for a HO alternator. I want to go this route vs alternator and battery. Just haven’t started looking to see what’s out there. Thinking 300+ amp should be fine with 1800w total

 

[nustang]

sounds like the battery is possibkle degraded

2nd battery in trunk closer to the amp. with ACR (automatic charge relay) isolates the 2 until alternator making enough jiuce to charge 2nd battery. (ACR under hood to save cable)
suitable large wire gauge to trunk for load,

 

[Demonic]

You posted in the GT350 subforum, so you may have better attention and responses in the correct forum. Also, at least on the GT350, the alternators are part of a smart charging system where the car's electronics control the voltage output from the alternator. It isn't a fixed output regulator like on older cars.

 

[NGOT8R]

Install one of these and see if that takes care of the problem for you. It’ll be cheaper and easier then an alternator upgrade too.

https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-C...5d1-b483-e2fca1f0fbbb&pd_rd_i=B001DXAVTS&th=1

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