Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[Evolvd]

The FD01 only works on the B&O amp plugs. I believe the adapter plug you need the Idatalink Maestro AF03. @Cathul will know better than I since I’ve only worked with the B&O system.

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[greasy]

The FD01 only works on the B&O amp plugs. I believe the adapter plug you need the Idatalink Maestro AF03. @Cathul will know better than I since I’ve only worked with the B&O system.

Ok great, so I’m not a total idiot.

Thank you for the heads up on this, looking forward to the response from @Cathul

 

[Cathul]

You need the HRN-AR-FO3 adapter for the Shaker systems.

 

[greasy]

You need the HRN-AR-FO3 adapter for the Shaker systems.

Appreciate you confirming Cathul!

Nothing else is needed to run off of the head unit then like you would with the 12 speaker system using the Pac Amp Pro?

My setup is Audiofrog GB60’s, GB25’s, GB10’s with the front center and rear speakers eliminated, and the addition of a single 10” JL Audio sub in the trunk. This will all be run off of the JL Audio VX800/8i 8 channel amplifier with DSP (dedicated channels for the front 6 speakers and the last 2 bridged for the sub).

I’ll be using @StangTime ‘s recommendation below for the RCA’s where I was going to run optical…..doesn’t look like that’s an option here.

Appreciate the help again!

Hey Paul,

On paper, you've got the flow of the system correct. The diagram really helps show that. In an ideal world, using the Metra speaker cable as your inputs and outputs would be a clever way to connect up 2-way system. However, low-level electrical signals are rather particular and running inputs and outputs within the same wire is likely going to result in some really bad system noise or even feedback. The inputs can pick up the output signals by means of electromagnetic coupling.

To prevent noise pickup, use shielded twisted pairs for the signal inputs. A cheap and easy way is to use computer network cable. I'm not sure you saw my post on this but shielded Cat6 cable and some breakout terminals are perfect for this. Your car has the 9 speaker system I assume as you said you would be disconnecting the midrange drivers in the door. If so, your head unit is sending variable low-level BTL signals out. These are perfect for connecting directly to the inputs of an amplifier using a home-made cable shown below.

I would hook up all lines Front and Rear in case you want to utilize them in the future. Notice how the lines cross over in the middle of the terminal block. This is correct and critical when using the DVR Ethernet Adapters.

Links to the parts:
DVR Ethernet Screw Terminals
Cat6 STP cable
RCA to AV screw terminal adapters
Optional: Wire ferrules and a crimper. Keeps the wires from fraying on the ends.

What it looks like when assembled:

The input side of this cable connects directly to the AF03 harness through the DVR adapter and now you can eliminate the LC2-i line output converter. Less equipment in the signal chain, less noise, less complexity.

Now on to some suggestions. Do you have the Kenwood 5 channel amp already? If not, may I suggest the Hertz HCP-5D instead? Basically the same price but the Hertz is a much better made and performing amp. I run this amplifier in my car and I love it. With a 2ohm JL audio subwoofer, it's more than adequate. The Kenwood has a terrible signal to noise ratio at 78db. The Hertz HCP-5D is 100db. A 22db difference is a lot considering 3db is an audible increase. You can also add a bass knob to the HCP-5D to control the subwoofer level directly.

I hope this information was helpful and if you want to revise your drawing I will gladly review it again.

 

[Cathul]

With the Shaker system there is no option to run optical from the front to the back, that's correct.
Just make sure the RCAs are twisted pair wires.

 

[greasy]

Few more questions @Cathul or @StangTime or anyone else knowledgeable about this stuff.

I’m working on wrapping the Maestro AF03 harness. I’m not running the DSR1 but will be running a JL Audio VX800/8i 8 channel amplifier with DSP.

Question 1
After I make the Ethernet adapters for the signals (RCA’s) I only have 4 channels (Front Left/Front Right/Rear Left/Rear Right). My amp is an 8 channel amp. Any issue running RCA Y adapters to get the 8 channels needed?

Question 2
channel For the AF03 specifically are the pieces of the harness that I have in red boxes (pics below) unnecessary? I was planning on running the remote wire from the fuse box #27 which is for the stock amplifier. Since it will be removed I feel like this would be the perfect spot.

 

[Evolvd]

Few more questions @Cathul or @StangTime or anyone else knowledgeable about this stuff.

I’m working on wrapping the Maestro AF03 harness. I’m not running the DSR1 but will be running a JL Audio VX800/8i 8 channel amplifier with DSP.

Question 1
After I make the Ethernet adapters for the signals (RCA’s) I only have 4 channels (Front Left/Front Right/Rear Left/Rear Right). My amp is an 8 channel amp. Any issue running RCA Y adapters to get the 8 channels needed?

Question 2
channel For the AF03 specifically are the pieces of the harness that I have in red boxes (pics below) unnecessary? I was planning on running the remote wire from the fuse box #27 which is for the stock amplifier. Since it will be removed I feel like this would be the perfect spot.

No Ys needed. The DSP software in the VXi allows you to create multiple channels off of one or more inputs. You do this through JL Tün 4.

 

[greasy]

No Ys needed. The DSP software in the VXi allows you to create multiple channels off of one or more inputs. You do this through JL Tün 4.

Awesome! That saves me some cash here, thanks @Evolvd!

 

[Evolvd]

Awesome! That saves me some cash here, thanks @Evolvd!

No problem. That’s the great thing about DSPs, you only need a single full range input and you can manage everything about it and determine where that signal goes and how it’s modified for every single speaker.

 

[Cathul]

Yellow is constant 12V, black is ground, blue should be Audio enable.
You could use these to turn on the amp, if the JL amp is able to turn on with a 6V remote turn on.
Otherwise you need to add a relay like the Pac-Audio TR4 to transform the 6V turn on to a 12V turn on. This would give you total stock behavior in the amplifier like you would have with the stock amplifier (apart from all the CAN bus controlled things).
Or you turn on the amplifier with the BTL signal, because technically the signal wires are "high-level", but reduced in voltage to 4V peak-to-peak. This means that if you measure each of the signals wires to ground you get the 6V like you do with high level signals.
Almost every amp with high-level turn on sensing should be able to cope with that. Be aware though that this could give you the occasional turn on/off pop/noise.

 

[greasy]

Yellow is constant 12V, black is ground, blue should be Audio enable.
You could use these to turn on the amp, if the JL amp is able to turn on with a 6V remote turn on.
Otherwise you need to add a relay like the Pac-Audio TR4 to transform the 6V turn on to a 12V turn on. This would give you total stock behavior in the amplifier like you would have with the stock amplifier (apart from all the CAN bus controlled things).
Or you turn on the amplifier with the BTL signal, because technically the signal wires are "high-level", but reduced in voltage to 4V peak-to-peak. This means that if you measure each of the signals wires to ground you get the 6V like you do with high level signals.
Almost every amp with high-level turn on sensing should be able to cope with that. Be aware though that this could give you the occasional turn on/off pop/noise.

Thanks dude!

 

[Yilly1108]

Here's my setup, hopefully it'll help others:

https://m.facebook.com/groups/245688985629930?view=permalink&id=1270996539765831

The link doesn't show the post, it opens to the group profile page. I'd like to see.

 

[TonyT930]

No... maybe with a base system where the ACM is putting out high level signals, but if you add an amplifier you want to reprogram this to variable line output anyway and then the hiss is just a matter of correct gain settings.
Btw. when programmed for variable line output and flat eq the headunit is one of the best sounding units with no clipping up to full volume.
Do aftermarket headunits have more features? For sure! Do they sound better? Not necessarily as there are far more conditions that play into the resulting sound of the system (amp, speakers, gain settings, DSP yes/no....). Do they look better? For sure not, as all the available kits look like shit when compared to the stock system.

You are right. I noticed what you are saying about the correct gain settings. I have the stock 8 inch screen radio/cd player and went with RF DSR1, Focal 3 way components in the doors, JL Audio C5 convertible in the rear seat panels(I have a convertible), a JL Audio 12w3 4 ohm sub, a JL Audio 500/1 mono sub amp and a JL Audio300/4 for the interior speakers. It sounds awesome.

 

[TonyT930]

Ok, so the steps would be:
1) Source an amp with a built in DSP (I'm sure it will suffice) Fit the speakers and wire them to the amp. Presumably I can wire it in exactly the way the existing amp is wired? I'd need to remind myself, but I think I'd need 4 channels for the car, excluding the subwoofer? A channel to run each door, and each rear, effectively. I'm removing the centre speaker, I can't even begin to imagine what value it would add to a stereo soundstage...
2) Remove the EQ performed by the head unit via ForScan, instructions for which are available earlier in this thread
3) Remove the ANC and sound effects via ForScan
4) Add an appropriate subwoofer amp. This is the bigger wiring challenge. Any advice on running the power cable? Presumably an in-line fuse would suffice here? Do you know the rating of the existing amp's power? 15amp? If so, could I not run this amp of the same power source? It has a max draw of 15.5amps while bridged @ 4ohms. https://www.pioneer-car.eu/eur/products/gm-a3702/specifications

Does this mean I will no longer be able to use the built in EQ/Fade/Balance settings on the head unit?

4 gauge power wire from the battery to the disp block(80 amp fuse minimum), then 8 gauge power wire from the disp block to the amps will be perfect. Be sure you also use the same gauge wires for your grounding wires. Run 8 Guage ground wires from the amps to the negative disp block, then run 4 gauge ground wire from the negative disp block to the frame somewhere. I just went through a project like this. I have JL audio 500/1 mono sub amp and JL Audio 300/4 amp for the interior speakers. Also, you might want to consider running at least 16 gauge speakers wires and a 12 gauge speaker wire for the sub

 

[mustangwestchester]

Audio Issues After Amplifier Upgrade
Hi everyone, I recently upgraded my 2018 Ecoboost Convertible's factory amplifier from the original FR3T-18T806-BT (9-speaker) to the FR3T-18T806-CP (12-speaker, from a GT model). Unfortunately, the audio quality has taken a major hit, and I’m hoping someone can help me troubleshoot.

The Problems:

• The new setup sounds distorted, and the overall audio quality is poor.
• Speakers are uneven: some, like the center and front speakers, are too quiet, while others are too loud.
• It feels like only the back door speakers are functioning correctly.
• The seatbelt warning sound has changed—it now comes from gauge not speakers, unlike before.

Important Info:

• With the original 9-speaker amp, my aftermarket speakers sounded great.
• I haven’t plugged in the subwoofer yet, as I’m still waiting for the factory subwoofer and bracket to arrive.
• I’m using Forscan to adjust settings, but I’m unsure what values to modify.

Current Forscan Values:

• 783-01-01: 1000 9C
• 783-02-01: 018E
• 727-01-01: 1850 DA00 64D6
• 727-01-02: 0000 31

Any advice on how to fix the uneven audio, improve sound quality, or correct the Forscan settings would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance for your help!

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