Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[Redcruzer]

I responded to a different original post but the Metra 72-5602 harness kit seems to be a good alternative (after light modifications) to cutting the stock 6.5" speaker connectors for now. It doesn't seem like the usual suppliers have plans to release plug & play kits any time soon.

On the 6.5 inch speakers, the connectors are pressed into the speaker casing and can be removed and reused. Simply cut the retaining tabs and press out the connector.

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[Gtrtech]

Thanks for the pictures and write-up. Is there any chance you can get a picture of the other end of the amp input cable shown above. ie. where it connects underneath the panelling? I'm looking for an input signal for a powered subwoofer on my non-Shaker Pro system.

I would like to see this also.

 

[maximized98]

On the 6.5 inch speakers, the connectors are pressed into the speaker casing and can be removed and reused. Simply cut the retaining tabs and press out the connector.

So you are telling me that I don't have to buy the Metra connectors?

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[maximized98]

If anyone doesn't want their speakers from the stock premium or shaker systems after upgrade let me know, i might be interested in replacing my base system with them. Anyone know if its possible to add a center channel speaker when i dont have one now?

I would also like to know of anyone has looked to see if there is wiring already in place for the center speaker.

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[stang9779]

Any info on the upgraded subwoofer?

 

[Redcruzer]

So you are telling me that I don't have to buy the Metra connectors?

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That's correct. As long as you have some soldering skills and don't mind the extra half hour it takes to make your own connectors. Snip the speaker wires at the connector. Mark the ground tab now with a Sharpie. Polarity is stamped on the speaker. Using a box knife cut the tabs off. Use a pair of channel locks to gently press the connector out of the mounting ring. Solder on a pair of three inch leads. Tape or shrink wrap the tabs. Solder leads to new speaker and your done!

By the way I installed a pair of JBL GTO 638's in the rear of my convertable with the Shaker Pro on NewSVO's suggestion in another post and I must say these made a BIG difference. Way more sound out of the rear. Much better mid range fill and for you bass guys, I had to set the Bass way lower then before. For seventy bucks and four hours work, these speakers are well worth it. First time this sound system made me smile.

 

[maximized98]

Where they the ones in the rear side panel? I am wondering about removing the panels.

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[Nemesis911]

That's correct. As long as you have some soldering skills and don't mind the extra half hour it takes to make your own connectors. Snip the speaker wires at the connector. Mark the ground tab now with a Sharpie. Polarity is stamped on the speaker. Using a box knife cut the tabs off. Use a pair of channel locks to gently press the connector out of the mounting ring. Solder on a pair of three inch leads. Tape or shrink wrap the tabs. Solder leads to new speaker and your done!

By the way I installed a pair of JBL GTO 638's in the rear of my convertable with the Shaker Pro on NewSVO's suggestion in another post and I must say these made a BIG difference. Way more sound out of the rear. Much better mid range fill and for you bass guys, I had to set the Bass way lower then before. For seventy bucks and four hours work, these speakers are well worth it. First time this sound system made me smile.

Hey Redcruzer - I am very interested in doing the same upgrade. How tough was it to get the rear panels off on the convertible? Did you happen to document the process and/or take any pictures? Are there any body tools needed to help get the clips out? Did the 638's fit using the existing mounting holes or did you have to drill new ones?

Thanks!

Mike V.

 

[Redcruzer]

Hey Redcruzer - I am very interested in doing the same upgrade. How tough was it to get the rear panels off on the convertible? Did you happen to document the process and/or take any pictures? Are there any body tools needed to help get the clips out? Did the 638's fit using the existing mounting holes or did you have to drill new ones?

Thanks!

Mike V.

Mike and Maximized,

Go to the DIY forum here and check out the terrific video by Steve at CJPP on installing the CDC light bar. It will tell you what you need to know regarding panel removal. One thing to note is the caps on both sides have a short wiring harness that needs to be removed next to the seat back. No big deal, just be gentle.

The speakers come with two mounting brackets, you will use the plastic one. It will need some minor trimming to fit. One thing to note is how you position your speakers. Note how the front seat belts run. You will want to make sure that the speaker electronics do not interfere with the seat belts operation. There is a hole in the cars speaker mounting frame for you to run your new connectors harness, you can't miss it. The speakers come with grills also but I didn't use them. The speakers magnet will end up about 1/8 from the inside of the wheel well when installed. Not sure if this will be a issue. Spacers can be added.

Have fun!

Chris

 

[maximized98]

That video was perfect, thank you!!!!!!!!

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[smdandb2]

I finally got my setup installed this weekend. All I can say is, I am getting too old for this crap. 12 solid hours of misery.

I have a strange hiss that I think is related to the MS8. My car is silent until I finish the MS8 setup and it actually enables the audio. At that point I have a hiss. I guess I will unhook the RCAs going to the MS8 and find out for sure what the culprit is. It's not life or death, so even if I don't resolve it I'm not too worried. The only other thing that REALLY annoyed me was the bulkhead connector going into the door. I had fully planned on running all new speaker wires, but that plan got cut short by a damn unexpected bulkhead. I am glad I bought all 3 amp connectors from Mouser.

And the funniest part of all this, my car no longer has the "Occupancy Mode" setting in the sound menu. There must be some feedback from the amp that dictates options.

With that said though, I have not done any tuning at all yet and I am already blown away. I can't wait until I really get to dive into things and get it fine tuned. I don't miss the center channel, and I don't miss the rear fill. A sub is needed, and I will do a JL Stealthbox to fulfill that need.

A few random pics I took...

DONT RELY ON THIS PIC, I SOLDERED 4 WIRES WRONG BY LOOKING AT THE WRONG DIAGRAM SO I HAD TO REDO IT ALL, LOL.

I went ahead and decided to apply some felt tape to a few rattle prone pieces while I had the car tore apart.

 

[rambunctious]

smd...
thanks for the update
is that a monster or a budlight in the pic. either is necessary for this scope of project :cheers:

I understand you dont want us to reply on the connector pics for wire placement. I am in the process of completing my harness and and triple checking everything. . but, can you confirm each connector and what it goes to.....
left =
center =
right =
and to confirm. you are no longer using the factory amp for output?

just quadrouple checking with my build
thanks
Ramb

 

[smdandb2]

smd...
thanks for the update
is that a monster or a budlight in the pic. either is necessary for this scope of project :cheers:

I understand you dont want us to reply on the connector pics for wire placement. I am in the process of completing my harness and and triple checking everything. . but, can you confirm each connector and what it goes to.....
left =
center =
right =
and to confirm. you are no longer using the factory amp for output?

just quadrouple checking with my build
thanks
Ramb

It was actually a Redbull, LOL.

As for the wiring, refer to the diagrams for sure. They are SPOT ON with the pin locations.

8/7 4/3 for the pre-amp signals. On your clips you get some mouser (you WILL need all 3), look at the inside of them and you will see the beginning and end pins are labeled, use those to figure out what is what. It becomes pretty self explanatory from there. For peace of mind, I verified the colors of the wires before building mine and they were spot on with the diagrams.

The other odd thing I noticed, the x01A cars have different 6.5" speakers completely. My x00A car had paper cone speakers all around, but the images in this thread from a x01A car show what look like some plastic cones with the 6.5's.

And yes, the factory amp is completely disconnected.

 

[Ericc B]

Justin, where did you end up placing the MS-8 and how do did you run the wiring feeding it?

 

[smdandb2]

Justin, where did you end up placing the MS-8 and how do did you run the wiring feeding it?

So my original plan was to build a shelf below the rear deck using MDF and threaded rods to support it. Once I actually did the measurements I realized just how narrow the trunk is in the Mustang. If my shelf hung down even 6", I would lose so much trunk room.

Ended up just mounting the MS8 and 2 amps to the back of the rear seats. It keeps them out of the way and I lose almost zero trunk space. I would post pictures, but I am ashamed of the rats nest as it sits. I simply ran out of time last night to clean everything up. One day I'll get around to it.

As for the wiring, I just soldered RCA plugs to the connectors I got from Mouser and ran RCAs to the trunk. From the amps back forward I used Stinger Speedwire (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_42094_Stinger-SGW951.html) and ran them back up front to connect to the other Mouser connectors to utilize the stock door wiring. I ran completely new wires for the a-pillar tweeters.

I wanted to run all new wires to the doors, but that stupid bulkhead connector on the body made it so that I could not do that. I was not about to pull my door off to drill a new hole, way too much work for what is probably minimal gains.

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