Oakley
Well-Known Member
oh look more emotional projection while i live rent free in your head from the looks of those tags.No need to get shook up, take a deep breath and pull yourself together.
whySoMad?
Sponsored
oh look more emotional projection while i live rent free in your head from the looks of those tags.No need to get shook up, take a deep breath and pull yourself together.
It's clear by every one of my responses that I'm simply trying to help you. You are not bothering me in any way. Logic has no feelings. I'm just here to help, Oak.oh look more emotional projection while i live rent free in your head from the looks of those tags.
whySoMad?
look, random guy on internet, you're the one going around tagging me in unrelated threads to talk shit cause you can't work out your issues in that other thread. you're talking about feelings so much but you ain't gettin that from me so where they comin from homie?It's clear by every one of my responses that I'm simply trying to help you. You are not bothering me in any way. Logic has no feelings. I'm just here to help, Oak.
Let's be real, we are both random guys on the internet. I'm not trying to work anything out. I'm just trying to help you out. I just want you to properly utilize the product you purchased.look, random guy on internet, you're the one going around tagging me in unrelated threads to talk shit cause you can't work out your issues in that other thread. you're talking about feelings so much but you ain't gettin that from me so where they comin from homie?
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I had the same problem - the front left bolt/washer/puck just couldn't seem to go into place to start threading by hand. And I used four 10-inch-long all-threads studs and nuts to temporarily drop my cradle by a few inches! Calling Steeda was no help back then, but I wish I had the above procedure available, because I hadn't thought about using the slop to move the cradle back by prying. (Which would also necessitate temporarily removing the CB005 kit.)I spoke to our lead installer, this is what he has recommended:
1. With the car in the air enough to comfortably slide under it, remove the front differential bolt on that side (yes, I know, it faces towards the rear of the car). With the bolt out, run a 14mmX2.0 tap into the hole cleaning the threads as you go. This will repair any damage done to the threads allowing the front side bolt to be installed. Note, that it may be necessary to support the differential during this process.
2, Once the threads are cleaned, reinstall the rear-facing bolt and torque into place.
3, This is the hard part. Support the front of the subframe on a jack. Remove both front subframe bolts, and loosen both rear bolts(if you have any subframe braces, they will need to be removed). Lower the jack until the subframe drops 3-4 inches away from the body of the car.
4, Using a prybar, push the subframe towards the rear of the car. Take the bolt and washer together, and install them into the bushing. With the subframe pushed back as far as possible(this may require an assistant) install the bolt/bushing into the pocket. Thread the bolt in by hand as far as possible. Use an open-end wrench to finish tightening the bolt. This bolt only needs 25-30 foot-pounds of torque to be tight enough.
If you have any questions or concerns, you can email me directly & I can put you in contact with our installation team.
Many thanks!
Tim
Sounds like the bush insert was not in properly may have been wrong insert or needed turning to slip into bush.Hi all,
I attached a photo reference to make the story telling easy on what I experienced during my diff bushing install yesterday. The result at the end was having to reinsert the factory bolt minus the bushing. In short I got 3 out of 4. It was dark and this took way longer than expected using hand tools. The result with the 3 are incredible considering I have most of the other suspension mods added on (sub frame alignment sleeves, braces, billet inserts, rear sway, vertical arms). The 3 bushings removed the flex the diff had resulting in a light clunk during lights shifts or throttling on and off in traffic.
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Case in point, hoping to get feedback on the following
A) Anyone else go through this?
B) Any opinion of running 3 vs. all 4 from a structural integrity or risk perspective?
Thanks everyone!
P.S. I did speak to Steeda (Thanks to Rod who was helpful) but confirmed they had not seen anything like this from their experience.
-Nick
He did get a Little Salty on us: LOL. BUT: If it were me, I would follow the OEM directions for the install or have a shop do it, or not do it at all. But that's just me. Good Luck and keep us postedNo need to get shook up, take a deep breath and pull yourself together.
Nice setup and pics to back the detail. I won't get angry...those days are behind me....But i will get bourbon, which then makes me lazy, and then I prefer to work on the bourbon then the car... Priorities are not always in order!It’s definitely a tight tolerance when installing the diff back into the diff bushings. I installed the hardcore bushing kit, diff bolt upgrade and support bracket which made it even worse haha. I had to get all 4 bolts threaded into the diff little by little all the way around. Nothing is impossible, but I believe the only way this can be done properly without you getting so angry you hit your dog is dropping the rear subframe to gain full access. I just dropped it from the start, it’s not very difficult, but have an extra pair of hands to help.
The diff clunking is normal between shifts, I get the same.
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Hey Keefa....The bushing and bolt were fitted in...It was simply by turn 6 of the bolt the rotation of the bolt went into an angle pitch instead of straight through like my artistic pictures tried to replicateSounds like the bush insert was not in properly may have been wrong insert or needed turning to slip into bush.
Did you grease the insert. I know very fiddly job I dropped the whole sub frame to do mine. Having only 3 in might load up the bolts more. I've heard some have broken the bolts.
Especially if supercharged.