Sponsored

Steeda Adjustable Swaybar Endlinks Loose?

Metz302

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2023
Threads
33
Messages
218
Reaction score
50
Location
Mesa
First Name
Connor
Vehicle(s)
2017 Mustang GT.
Hello everyone.

Anyone else have these Steeda adjustable swaybar links? I only upgraded to these bc they told me the stock endlinks would bend with my Steeda shocks and springs I bought.

However, they seem to come loose after a bit and start clunking.

Whether it is the jam nut itself or the joint where it bolts into the strut.

I have this weird random clunk on my passenger front side, only over the biggest bumps. Does this sound like anything else to anyone? I just got my car alignment checked since it hasn’t been done in ten months, however my alignment was perfectly still set where it was nearly a year ago so I can’t think it would be a control arm or something.

Is there a best way to install these? They’ve been a headache and I’m tempted to just get the moog upgraded non adjustable ones since I don’t need the adjustment for anything.
Sponsored

 

Pistol_91

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2023
Threads
12
Messages
1,401
Reaction score
1,429
Location
Clearwater
Vehicle(s)
2020 mustang GT
Do the Steeda ones have a nut on the backside like the stock ones do? If so put a wrench back there and hit it with a large impact gun in the front. Should tighten right up. If they keep coming loose over time, maybe put some lock tite on the nut.
 

NightmareMoon

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2015
Threads
62
Messages
7,093
Reaction score
6,364
Location
Austin
Vehicle(s)
2016 Mustang GT PP w/ Voodoo
Vehicle Showcase
1
Endlinks (of any brand) are notorious for getting loose and clunking, so best to get under there and check.

If the jam nuts arent loose then chances are the bolt(s) to the swaybar or strut are the culprit. Thread locker on the jam nuts is probably a good idea.

You have to get a wrench on the backside to hold the back of the balljoint/nut thing or else where you tighten them that bolt is just spinning and it will clunk. Look closelt at them and you can find the flats for the wrench on the back. If you tighten em right they’ll be good for many miles.

OEM fronts do bend easily, its true.
 
OP
OP

Metz302

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2023
Threads
33
Messages
218
Reaction score
50
Location
Mesa
First Name
Connor
Vehicle(s)
2017 Mustang GT.
Endlinks (of any brand) are notorious for getting loose and clunking, so best to get under there and check.

If the jam nuts arent loose then chances are the bolt(s) to the swaybar or strut are the culprit. Thread locker on the jam nuts is probably a good idea.

You have to get a wrench on the backside to hold the back of the balljoint/nut thing or else where you tighten them that bolt is just spinning and it will clunk. Look closelt at them and you can find the flats for the wrench on the back. If you tighten em right they’ll be good for many miles.

OEM fronts do bend easily, its true.
You think it would be better to just swap to non adjustable ones and avoid the headache all together?

I’m not sure why the adjustable ones have been such a pain for me
 

NightmareMoon

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2015
Threads
62
Messages
7,093
Reaction score
6,364
Location
Austin
Vehicle(s)
2016 Mustang GT PP w/ Voodoo
Vehicle Showcase
1
You think it would be better to just swap to non adjustable ones and avoid the headache all together?

I’m not sure why the adjustable ones have been such a pain for me
The non-adjustbles and OEMs have 2/3rd of the same issues. Its only the jam nuts for length that the adjustables add, and they’re pretty easy to inspect.

I feel ya though, most people just need stronger OEM length endlinks.
 

Sponsored

OP
OP

Metz302

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2023
Threads
33
Messages
218
Reaction score
50
Location
Mesa
First Name
Connor
Vehicle(s)
2017 Mustang GT.
The non-adjustbles and OEMs have 2/3rd of the same issues. Its only the jam nuts for length that the adjustables add, and they’re pretty easy to inspect.

I feel ya though, most people just need stronger OEM length endlinks.
It’s just so odd that it only bangs around on the worst of bumps, otherwise it’s pretty dang quiet. I’ve had loose swaybar endlinks before and they were rowdy.

I however, have tightened these up a few days ago (must not have been that hard) and they came loose a week later that’s how I know it’s the swaybar links. But how frustrating.
 

kz

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2014
Threads
62
Messages
4,596
Reaction score
2,921
Location
West Chester, OH
Vehicle(s)
Mustangs & F150
btw - adding to what Nightmaremoon said above (yes, all endlink get loose and OEM one do get bent), they get bent from stiffer aftermarket sway bar, not really from the springs themselves.

Just put loctite under jamnuts.
 

tj@steeda

Well-Known Member
Diamond Sponsor
Joined
Mar 21, 2014
Threads
584
Messages
6,947
Reaction score
4,445
Location
Florida
First Name
Timothy
Vehicle(s)
2019 Steeda Mustang - White Carbon Edition
Vehicle Showcase
1

Palma

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2024
Threads
8
Messages
135
Reaction score
173
Location
California
First Name
Michael
Vehicle(s)
2020 GT PP1
Be careful with hard core impact wrenches… I’ve recently been through lots of clunky front end noise and swore it was end links… put my impact gun and gave it a ugga… it moved… said to myself ah… this is loose… gave it some more and it keeps moving… then snap! The bolt shears right off. This was with stock ford end links and I had Steeda in the garage so I put them back on. I’d taken the off for the jam nuts kept coming loose and driving me nuts.
 

GTP

Deutsche Pony
Joined
May 27, 2015
Threads
263
Messages
6,016
Reaction score
3,940
Location
Indy
Website
www.BambergAudio.com
First Name
Philip
Vehicle(s)
2019 GT PP1 A10 Outrageous Orange HPDE mods
The torque is 85# IIRC. Another problem is that the Ford bar hole is about 14mm but the endlink stud is 12mm. We suppose this is to help stab the second side stud into its hole after the other side is in place.

I use a 17mm open end wrench on the backside to prevent rotation while using a gearwrench to get the nut on, then using a torque wrench for final. The 17mm wrench is not needed for final torque.
Sponsored

 
 








Top