Spoiler / Wing Recommendations (GT)

[tdstuart]

And stop going at 160 on the street.
Bring the car to the track so you can fully experience the potential of the car in a safe environment. And becoming also a better driver in a fun atmosphere.

I would like to go to the track. I live in the Pheonix area in Arizona. Haven't been able to find good beginner track places, but maybe I'm just not searching up the right things.

I'm also worried about the additional maintenance and costs of going to the track. Lots of people replace oil, breaks, and even tires every track day and I just don't have the money for that.
Also worried about my stock brakes overheating, as I don't have the performance package.

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[tdstuart]

The ZL1ADDONS lip. Add some extra bolt duts to hold it better. Put a couple of rods connected to the crashbar. And pair with anderson composite 350 replica. Is a slighlty improvment and also great looking!

Is this the part you are talking about? https://zl1addons.com/collections/m...8-21-standard-splitter?variant=39924071891115

 

[PaddyPrix]

I'm not going to lie, Ale has put in some hours on his design. My design is so easy that an idiot like me can do it. Ended up snapping my old splitter this weekend, after almost a full year of abuse, and a quick trip to the hardware store pretty much had it all rectified in about an hour, and for a whopping $68.

I was using 15/32" ply, but switched to 1/2" birch this weekend, 4'x8' board, so much nicer, so much stronger and smoother, I didn't scrape it, but I assume if I did, it won't splinter, it'll somewhat sand itself down.

To secure it, I use signpost 1" and 1 1/4" squared tubes, the bigger ones hanging underneath the radiator support arms, smaller one on the board itself. To help clear things, I use spacers to give it just a little more separation and on the back of the main support tube, I've got a long 5/16" bolt dropping through, acting as a stopper. I've canoed off some the squared holes on the splitter side, so that it'll line up perfectly, sliding into position, and then just throw a dowel rod/pin so that it won't slide out. I can take the splitter off and on in ... what, 15 seconds?

Of late, I've added some 36" steel bars underneath to stiffen it up, making a box, and in a rush, I didn't even care to drill for the carbon splitter rods, but I'll probably add those back on this week. Other than that, the only other things you need are something to help build a fence, so that air won't get between your splitter and bumper, and I went with the garden edging vinyl stuff that goes between concrete walkways and grass, some L brackets, some wood screws, duct tape, and some caulking and caulking gun. I've got a new bumper, so I didn't do the caulk part knowing I'll take it back up this weekend and reposition it to fit that one as well.

Is it ugly? Perhaps.
Is it functional? Most Def.
Is there a perfect one? Probably not.

But don't underestimate the effect aero can have to your high speed handling when you get the balance just right. I pulled the 3rd best time of the day and reeled in cars with 300+ hp more than I did, and I'm just e85 and longtubes. This was solid to the 160 that I was able to click off at the end of the straight, and it holds my 220# standing right on the nose just fine. Most important, make it you, make it fun.

I would like to go to the track. I live in the Pheonix area in Arizona. Haven't been able to find good beginner track places, but maybe I'm just not searching up the right things.

I'm also worried about the additional maintenance and costs of going to the track. Lots of people replace oil, breaks, and even tires every track day and I just don't have the money for that.
Also worried about my stock brakes overheating, as I don't have the performance package.

Look up NASA AZ Region. You've got some fantastic instructors and drivers there, and the tracks I believe are around you. You have to earn your way up through HPDE (High Perf Driver Ed) and build up some skills to handle that weapon of yours. I also have a base edition, and I can't stress enough the importance of brakes, as this was my very first time out -- -- pretty spooky when you consider those chirps were a combination of me pumping as hard as I could and pulling the ebrake enough to stop, but not lose control.

Thankfully, that's not too hard to fix up. You'll need a higher temp brake fluid, something like Motul RBF 600 or 660 isn't too bad, and allows it to operate at higher temps, and piece together your own PP set by stalking your local Ford parts website. You'll need two brake calipers from a 18+ Mustang GT PP (or Bullitt), brake pads (G-Loc, Hawk, Ferodo ds.uno), brake hoses, brake rotors (the blanks are heavy, but totally fine), and perhaps the master cylinder for the Performance Pack, not the GT350, which is the same base GT edition you already have. With that, and a simple bleed, you'll stop on a dime, and go a whole session without any problem.

Costs aren't too bad, and they get better if you can save up and keep a separate set, so track rotors and brakes mean you can get good track ones, and then switch out to your street ones. Anybody who says their pad can do both is just lying.

 

[Hye Power]

The anderson composites gt350r is solid and i even had it mounted to their carbon fiber trunk. If you buy their factory style wing you can buy the dog bones that go with it to make it even more rigid.

 

[Flyhalf]

Is this the part you are talking about? https://zl1addons.com/collections/m...8-21-standard-splitter?variant=39924071891115

Yep.

 

[tdstuart]

I'm not going to lie, Ale has put in some hours on his design. My design is so easy that an idiot like me can do it. Ended up snapping my old splitter this weekend, after almost a full year of abuse, and a quick trip to the hardware store pretty much had it all rectified in about an hour, and for a whopping $68.

I was using 15/32" ply, but switched to 1/2" birch this weekend, 4'x8' board, so much nicer, so much stronger and smoother, I didn't scrape it, but I assume if I did, it won't splinter, it'll somewhat sand itself down.

To secure it, I use signpost 1" and 1 1/4" squared tubes, the bigger ones hanging underneath the radiator support arms, smaller one on the board itself. To help clear things, I use spacers to give it just a little more separation and on the back of the main support tube, I've got a long 5/16" bolt dropping through, acting as a stopper. I've canoed off some the squared holes on the splitter side, so that it'll line up perfectly, sliding into position, and then just throw a dowel rod/pin so that it won't slide out. I can take the splitter off and on in ... what, 15 seconds?

Of late, I've added some 36" steel bars underneath to stiffen it up, making a box, and in a rush, I didn't even care to drill for the carbon splitter rods, but I'll probably add those back on this week. Other than that, the only other things you need are something to help build a fence, so that air won't get between your splitter and bumper, and I went with the garden edging vinyl stuff that goes between concrete walkways and grass, some L brackets, some wood screws, duct tape, and some caulking and caulking gun. I've got a new bumper, so I didn't do the caulk part knowing I'll take it back up this weekend and reposition it to fit that one as well.

Is it ugly? Perhaps.
Is it functional? Most Def.
Is there a perfect one? Probably not.

But don't underestimate the effect aero can have to your high speed handling when you get the balance just right. I pulled the 3rd best time of the day and reeled in cars with 300+ hp more than I did, and I'm just e85 and longtubes. This was solid to the 160 that I was able to click off at the end of the straight, and it holds my 220# standing right on the nose just fine. Most important, make it you, make it fun.

Look up NASA AZ Region. You've got some fantastic instructors and drivers there, and the tracks I believe are around you. You have to earn your way up through HPDE (High Perf Driver Ed) and build up some skills to handle that weapon of yours. I also have a base edition, and I can't stress enough the importance of brakes, as this was my very first time out -- -- pretty spooky when you consider those chirps were a combination of me pumping as hard as I could and pulling the ebrake enough to stop, but not lose control.

Thankfully, that's not too hard to fix up. You'll need a higher temp brake fluid, something like Motul RBF 600 or 660 isn't too bad, and allows it to operate at higher temps, and piece together your own PP set by stalking your local Ford parts website. You'll need two brake calipers from a 18+ Mustang GT PP (or Bullitt), brake pads (G-Loc, Hawk, Ferodo ds.uno), brake hoses, brake rotors (the blanks are heavy, but totally fine), and perhaps the master cylinder for the Performance Pack, not the GT350, which is the same base GT edition you already have. With that, and a simple bleed, you'll stop on a dime, and go a whole session without any problem.

Costs aren't too bad, and they get better if you can save up and keep a separate set, so track rotors and brakes mean you can get good track ones, and then switch out to your street ones. Anybody who says their pad can do both is just lying.

Thanks that’s been really helpful!

What’s the difference between a track brake pad and a street one?

And where is the cheapest place to get the PP brakes? I think the cheapest I’ve seen is on eBay the calipers are around $600.

 

[Flyhalf]

Thanks that’s been really helpful!

What’s the difference between a track brake pad and a street one?

And where is the cheapest place to get the PP brakes? I think the cheapest I’ve seen is on eBay the calipers are around $600.

Mainly the power of braking. More aggressive pads. But also more boisy and dusty. The pp brakes are a must. The regular one just don't work BECAUSE THE REVERSE ROTOR DESIGN (for cooling. )

 

[tdstuart]

Mainly the power of braking. More aggressive pads. But also more boisy and dusty. The pp brakes are a must. The regular one just don't work BECAUSE THE REVERSE ROTOR DESIGN (for cooling. )

I got some drilled and slotted rotors for the front, even then I can still feel brake fade after a few hard stops back to back.

 

[PaddyPrix]

I got some drilled and slotted rotors for the front, even then I can still feel brake fade after a few hard stops back to back.

Further elaborating on what Ale said above, it's the design, and fine for just about everything else, other than tracking where you are making very hard brakes very repetitively. The hot air from the brakes gets trapped on the inside, and creates something of an echo chamber, letting the brakes take in even hotter air, and never getting a chance to cool. As long as you stay with the stock base GT brake calipers, the only real rotor design that works with them are the screwy one that does us absolutely no good. Once you switch to the PP Calipers, even the big ol' blank one, it'll be a proper configuration, and it's as if somebody flipped on some braking cheat code.

The only real downside to the PP rotor blanks is that they're pretty heavy, something that will perhaps concern you when you get further down the road and certainly playing into your weight for competitions, but you'll have plenty to worry about before then.

Also, you're welcome.

Calipers - (L+R)
FR3Z-2B120-E
FR3Z-2B121-E

Brake Hoses -(L+R)
FR3Z-2078-J
FR3Z-2078-K

Rotor (x2)
GR3Z-1125-L

Master Cylinder (Manual)
FR3Z-2140-A


Easy way to cheat, the Bullitt is seen as a different model and it only came with all the fancy upgrades, so steal all the PN from that -- https://www.tascaparts.com/v-2019-ford-mustang--bullitt--5-0l-v8-gas/brakes--brake-components

If you've got extra money to burn, you could just get M-2300-V from Ford, but that'll set you back even more than if you just assembled it yourself.

 

[Flyhalf]

I got some drilled and slotted rotors for the front, even then I can still feel brake fade after a few hard stops back to back.

Drill rotors = no bueno. The pads oem suck. There are many option as alternative.
Ferodo ds2500 can be a good option
https://pages.ferodoracing.com/products/car-racing/racing-brake-pads/ds2500/

 

[FUN2RIDEFAST]

Hey OP, a couple answers to your questions below.

1. If you do 160 in this car the spoiler is the least of your issues. F/R bumper will likely blow off before the spoiler. Don't even get me started on the hood float lol.

2. Actual downforce=money. For many reasons. Also, if you put downforce on the rear you'll definitely want more in the front.

3. Super subjective. I would use the search option and find the spoiler thread and start there.

4. I went with an APR unit because I need actual downforce, APR uses CFD to get their data and it's adjustable depending on what track i'm at.

Good luck!

I'm considering the APR spoiler with struts. How was the installation and are you happy with it?

 

[2morrow]

I'm considering the APR spoiler with struts. How was the installation and are you happy with it?

Very happy with it, works perfectly for my needs.

peep the install here.

 

[FUN2RIDEFAST]

Very happy with it, works perfectly for my needs.

peep the install here.

Thanks. I'm going to pull the trigger on it.

 

[Flyhalf]

I'm considering the APR spoiler with struts. How was the installation and are you happy with it?

You mean the wing? What model?

 

[FUN2RIDEFAST]

You mean the wing? What model?

I meant to say splitter. Just ordered it today.

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