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SPARK PLUG BRAND & GAP FOR N/A??

Headless Horseman

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Hey guys! I've been trying to research this topic. It's a bit of a rabbit hole. If it helps in N/A , headers, Cobra Jet, 69mm throttle body, PMAS CAI.
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robvas

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Doesn't frickin' matter. Whatever stock is.
 

NGOT8R

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I run NGK 6510 plugs in my car which sees NA runs the majority of the time, although the car does have nitrous. I have them gapped at .028 and the car runs great.

Mods

- LTHs, x-pipe and cat back
- PMAS
- GT350 IM
- Ported TB
- E85
 
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Headless Horseman

Headless Horseman

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NGOT8R

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Headless Horseman

Headless Horseman

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Call OP Mustang, they will get you exactly what you need.

That said, I have NGK 6510's as well, gapped how they come.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RLTZ7A?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
There's no reason to run a colder plug or a tighter gap on a bolt-on NA setup
Thank you gentlemen. Will the box specify what the gap is supposed to be so I can double check them all?
I initially thought they were supposed to be stock plugs since I'm not boosted. Then I went to the internet!
 

K4fxd

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There are dyno tests that show .040 as the best all around plug gap, N/A

There's no reason to run a colder plug or a tighter gap on a bolt-on NA setup
Yes and no. We are high compression so any reduction in plug heat is helpful for preventing pre-ignition. Tighter gaps make the coils not work as hard, and give more stable spark at high RPM.

I run the 6510 and regap them to .037. Factory gap on the 6510 is supposed to be .043
 

WItoTX

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Thank you gentlemen. Will the box specify what the gap is supposed to be so I can double check them all?
I initially thought they were supposed to be stock plugs since I'm not boosted. Then I went to the internet!
You can absolutely go stock plugs, but if going that route, definitely give the OP guys a call and tell them what you use the car for, and they will recommend something. You will get it on time with no surprises.

Do you have a socket to get the rearmost passenger side plug out (I believe its #4)? I have a workaround, but am terrified I am going to drop the socket down the tube.
 

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robvas

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Yes and no. We are high compression so any reduction in plug heat is helpful for preventing pre-ignition. Tighter gaps make the coils not work as hard, and give more stable spark at high RPM.
Not a problem if you're not seeing knock.

And a wider gap makes fractionally more power. Again, if you're not blowing the spark out there's no point to tighten it up.

But again at this level it doesn't really matter like I originally said.
 
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K4fxd

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And a wider gap makes fractionally more power.
Many many many dyno runs show .040 is the best gap for power if the ign system can support it.

The wide gaps help ignite lean mixtures. If you are lean the wide gap will show an improvement. The stock coyote is lean at most anything except WOT. This is why the factory specs the wide gap, better burn at cruise.

Some of the old lean burn GM engines had .070 factory plug gaps

Not a problem if you're not seeing knock.
Pre-ignition is not knock. I like a safety margin so I will use one heat range colder. Hurts nothing and might help.
 
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Headless Horseman

Headless Horseman

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Many many many dyno runs show .040 is the best gap for power if the ign system can support it.

The wide gaps help ignite lean mixtures. If you are lean the wide gap will show an improvement. The stock coyote is lean at most anything except WOT. This is why the factory specs the wide gap, better burn at cruise.

Some of the old lean burn GM engines had .070 factory plug gaps


Pre-ignition is not knock. I like a safety margin so I will use one heat range colder. Hurts nothing and might help.
So is .040 considered a wide gap? Should I upgrade my coil packs as well? I'm at 65,000
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