Something is wrong here

[Loki-GT]

Yep. Kills throttle and waits for no wheelspin and then rolls out right after. Worth a looky

Agreed, I was honestly hoping the dealership had set a MyKey restriction to 114 which makes no sense but would have been easy to fix, my luck just ain't that good but this is the next best thing and could explain an issue I ran into running against a 2010 Camaro where TC was off but every gear change had a hesitation.

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[Loki-GT]

You can datalog and look at TPS to confirm it's the ECU doing AdvanceTrac's bidding. Something weird in the programming for the 10R80, some aftermarket tunes might address it.

I haven't data logged since my 2006 Mustang GT that I sold back in 2009 which I hooked through the hand tuner. I don't own a hand tuner yet and they are expensive for just this, but in the end I'll need one because I do plan a CAI and exhaust.

 

[wireeater]

I think you should be able to datalog with a cheap OBD II bluetooth dongle and a phone app like TORQUE. It has access to most of the sensors.

 

[Loki-GT]

Sounds like the car could but cutting timing due to knock.

93 octane and 58f out and only in the 6 to 7 shift? God I hope not. I'm taking it step by step, I'm going to reconnect the battery and turn off TC and then hold it down until Adv Trac turns off and give it another try.

 

[Loki-GT]

I think you should be able to datalog with a cheap OBD II bluetooth dongle and a phone app like TORQUE. It has access to most of the sensors.

I have an older Garmin Mechanic Bluetooth dongle, I can try that I think?

 

[smann]

Agreed, when I first ran into problem with the car sticking at 7800rpm I talked to them, (the dealer I bought from) it was like talking to guys in their first year of mechanics school, they had no clue, I should NOT know more about the car than the supposed "experts".

If anybody know of a great Mustang dealer with good mechanics let me know which one it is so I can talk to them.

I agree, most of them don't know jack shit but if its a big and costly issue, its always better to get it checked out. Never know lol

 

[markmurfie]

My advance trac will kick in on my 3-4 shift wether it's just traction control disabled or I have it in advance trac sport mode. No lights on the dash board indicating it happens. No wheel spin that I feel or see. Only way I see it is in my logs, torque source goes to traction control and things like torque convertor clutch unlocking. Pretty sure you will need HPT or SCT to see these things. If you can feel it, then it's pretty easy to just turn advance trac off(it turns traction control off also) and just do a quick WOT run.

 

[aleccolin]

I haven't data logged since my 2006 Mustang GT that I sold back in 2009 which I hooked through the hand tuner. I don't own a hand tuner yet and they are expensive for just this, but in the end I'll need one because I do plan a CAI and exhaust.

OBDLink MX is $80 on Amazon, works with Android and PC. The Wifi version will work with iOS, think it's about $150.

 

[Loki-GT]

My advance trac will kick in on my 3-4 shift wether it's just traction control disabled or I have it in advance trac sport mode. No lights on the dash board indicating it happens. No wheel spin that I feel or see. Only way I see it is in my logs, torque source goes to traction control and things like torque convertor clutch unlocking. Pretty sure you will need HPT or SCT to see these things. If you can feel it, then it's pretty easy to just turn advance trac off(it turns traction control off also) and just do a quick WOT run.

It's only 11:10 am, now I have to wait 4 more hours before I can go home and play. :rant:

 

[Loki-GT]

UPDATE

Well, I reconnected the battery which killed my 11 year old iPod, it lasted a long time considering.

I couldn't find anywhere to open the car up all the way and I drove for nearly 2 hours. I did some short runs with Advanced Trac off and it was a different car. Every single time it did what it is supposed to do. No hanging up at high rpms, no dead spots but I couldn't do a full 1/4 mile pass to answer my nagging question, but "I think" it should be good to go.

So, I'm shooting for heading once again to GLD in Union Grove Wisconsin this Friday night and giving it another go.

I received a response from Lund Racing about this and not to knock them, they have stuff to sell, he didn't really read the email and gave sales advice which is what I expected so not upset but not exactly wowed either.

I don't believe a tune can solve everything, if there was a problem with the car I would want that fixed before tossing parts and tunes at the car. They don't accept calls so we didn't talk over the phone.

Maybe I'm missing the whole point of these modern cars and this is how its done, anyway I'm going to the strip, if the car makes one clean pass, no flat spot going into 7th and it runs a 12.2@114 then them theres the breaks and I can build from there.

Then it's time to choose a CAI and the tuner to buy from.

 

[Marvinmadman]

Good to hear.

 

[Ponderthis]

Just get a tuner and have lund tune it... OEM calibration is weak.

 

[Loki-GT]

Just get a tuner and have lund tune it... OEM calibration is weak.

I get that, but I prefer to find the problem before throwing money at it.

 

[LETHAL]

Glad the reset helped!

 

[Loki-GT]

Well GLD time tomorrow to see how the car does with avd trac off. Similar conditions I think as on 6/1 so maybe with adv trac off now it traps better at least, elapsed improvement would be fantastic as well.

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