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SCCA CAM-C Thread

TeeLew

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Agree with kz, that tool would have been amazing.
I used a 4.5in grinder with no guard and a cutting wheel combined with a metal blade on a jigsaw.
It worked…but not super duper clean…then again what ever will be.
Proper name: "Death wheel"

Hey, it works.
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CobaltFilly

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mavisky

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Also put some thick plastic under the hood while you cut. Will catch metal shavings. Works better with a saw than a cutoff wheel as the saw doesn't get the metal as hot ao you don't have to worry about it melting through.

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CobaltFilly

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Or remove hood from the car entirely. Place on two sawhorses and feel safe that you won’t accidentally cut too deep with a death wheel.
 

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tosha

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Aluminum hoods are a breeze to cut. Soft, no sparks, no drama. I've cut mine using oscillating multitool and it went through it like butter.

Steel hoods are completely different story. We are lucky to have aluminum hoods for cutting on mustangs. 😁
 

kz

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Btw
Won't be there this year. If I can't reliably beat my buddy in our own region there's no reason for me to make the drive to Nebraska just to lose even worse. I've got enough nationally competitive drivers and a few winners in our region to tell me my car isn't pax worthy enough yet for that much outlay. That money is better spent fixing some of my prior street car decisions I've made in the build and more seat time locally.
Kyle - my two cents - there always is someone better and there is so much randomness in autocross, that even if you locally beat everyone, things can go wrong. It may start raining before you go out, car may break, anything. On locals there is course dependency and pax so judging yourself against someone that beat you in a different car isn't accurate (I have no excuse - routinely get raw timed by Dave - whose video I posted - in an FS car that is also CAM eligible)

Also large events and large courses - for some (like me) take getting used to. There are people that will show up after few locals and do great and some that will completely melt down mentally and drive like crap.

Also - you get only three runs.

But most importantly - what Dana said - it is super fun event. It's far, it's expensive but it is a lot of fun. And Saturday there is CAM Invitational so you don't go all the way for just 6 runs if you don't run Pro Finale.
 

kz

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Aluminum hoods are a breeze to cut. Soft, no sparks, no drama. I've cut mine using oscillating multitool and it went through it like butter.
Which blade did you use ? (i have that one too - bought for OPR removal).

They are soft, but the second layer is pain in the ass with its funky shape.
 

kz

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Also put some thick plastic under the hood while you cut. Will catch metal shavings. Works better with a saw than a cutoff wheel as the saw doesn't get the metal as hot ao you don't have to worry about it melting through.

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Same, with propped hood on rubber blocks to not cut anything underneath. I had the hood removed earlier in the year for center vent (I have $100 marketplace hood) but putting it on and taking it off it pain in the ass.
 

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CobaltFilly

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Same, with propped hood on rubber blocks to not cut anything underneath. I had the hood removed earlier in the year for center vent (I have $100 marketplace hood) but putting it on and taking it off it pain in the ass.
Yea I removed because I did center and sides in one day
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kz

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Speaking of randomness of the events - Cleveland tour - picked up on the way to grid and noticed pressure going down with a two minute warning. Found when car was already on the trailer.

Went all the way to Cleveland - that generally no one wants to voluntarily go to - for basically nothing as Sunday I was DNS. Not enough time to do anything (Sam said he would lend me a wheel off his Mach but it was too late to do anything)

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And refund for replacement tire ($391 RE-71RS) has just been approved by Tire Rack road hazard warranty thing.
gotta love that. Happened to me a few year ago. A few pictures sent and I got my new tire the next day
 

kz

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Speaking of enabling and Milwaukee (swear I don't work for them). This is the gold standard for inflators. M12 one is good (have two of them - first one I attempted driving with while still attached to the valve - handle got mangled but it works fine) but this one is great.

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