Rotor damage - Beechmont Ford states this is normal?

[K4fxd]

i honestly think they will be fine in 1000 miles.

This may be the case, it's hard to diagnose with photos. Lighting and cameras.. didn't they find a face on Mars.

I would have someone I trust look at them just to be sure.

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[Tucker80]

I don’t see any hotspots from a botched break in.

Was the car sold New or Used? Looks like the rotors haven’t been entirely broken in yet since you can still see machining marks.

are you using the brakes hard sometimes or babying it?

if the car sat for a long time, that would explain a lot of the rust.

i honestly think they will be fine in 1000 miles. I don’t see any evidence of anything which would indicate that the brake pads won’t wear the rotors down and bed in properly in due time. Its not the miles but the usage which will wear that rust off. If you don’t use the brakes it won’t wear that stuff away.

Im not thrilled with so much rust on a basicslly new car but I don’t know what conditions that car sat in or for how long.
My friend recently put fresh but rusty as hell rotors on his porsche, and it took over a month for the oads to resurface them, and he drives pretty hard.

It was sold new. I've been taking it very easy while it's cold due to how loud it is when braking. Once it's warmed up I'm harder on it, but its still a bit concerning. I typically break in my cars on the harder side and follow the belief to break in as it'll be driven, but admittedly have been easier on this car.

 

[tosha]

Have you checked the underbody by any chance? If that's indeed corrosion, there was something seriously wrong with how the car was stored. Hoping that rest of the car is in better shape than the rotors.

 

[AMC401V8]

The fact that ANYONE, dealer or enthusiast, thinks these rotors are acceptable on a new Mustang blows my mind. There are what appear to be high/low spots on the rotors as well as possibly being heat checked in a few areas. I hope Ford takes care of you and wish you the best.

 

[shogun32]

Take the damn wheels off and dismount the rotors for a tabletop inspection. The surface should be perfectly smooth and uniform with no divots. Take a light source and a straight edge and you'll easily spot problems. And to be frank a set of rotors and pads is dirt cheap. Replace the whole shooting match.

Looks like someone was doing 120-0 stops at a drag strip.

 

[ice445]

I’m going to suggest something different as I think those brakes have A) been left consistently wet, possibly for prolonged periods and B) never been bedded in properly.

As you have nothing to lose, try Fords own procedure (admittedly for the Brembo cars) :

Please try it and report back

WD

I agree with this, it's a combination of both. I've seen this once before with a car that was street parked for a long time in winter, the side the Salt got kicked up on had pits like that which caused pad deposits once it was driven again. Combine that with some "spirited" braking and I could see that being the outcome.

 

[K4fxd]

Looks like someone was doing 120-0 stops at a drag strip.

OP stated the car was dealer transferred during a snow storm. At least in winter. I suspect many donuts and fast stops were involved. Take hot unbroken in rotors along with new pads saltty slush spray and letting the car sit till nice weather and this is what you get.

My speculation anyway.

 

[RagmopInKona]

Yeah, I've never seen anything like it, but wanted to make sure I'm not the idiot here.

Someone at the selling dealership drove that car hard, those rotors are junk. Take it to another dealership. The selling one knows they are going to eat the repair and doing everything to not have too.
But unless you have photo's of the rotors like that when you bought it, it'll be a he say she says. type deal.

 

[Nightmonkey]

Given the better pictures, I would also rule out hotspots, you can recognize them mainly by their color.
This looks like a strangely in-braked surface.
It might actually make sense to look at the friction surface of the brake pads if the wear pattern does not improve after another break-in attempt.

 

[Yorkshire_OH]

I’m going to suggest something different as I think those brakes have A) been left consistently wet, possibly for prolonged periods and B) never been bedded in properly.

As you have nothing to lose, try Fords own procedure (admittedly for the Brembo cars) :

Please try it and report back

WD

Hold the phone.... the Gurney flap must be removed for on road driving!?!? #SorryfortheHijacking

 

[Yorkshire_OH]

Now the weather is picking up a bit and you have more grip I'd get some serious heat into those brakes and see what's what. I had a rental car that had horrendous steering wheel shuddering underbraking (I guessed either warped discs or pad deposit on the disc) but because they measured correctly the garage said they were fine. Totally the wrong metric to assess brakes.

 

[Nightmonkey]

Another idea:
At least here in Germany, most authorized workshops have brake test stands on which the car has to brake on a roller in the ground on one axle (comparable to a dynamometer, but the other way round).
The braking force is measured and you can see if there is a imbalance between left and right.
Perhaps you can gain knowledge about the condition of the brake in this way.

(By the way, is also part of the two-year technical inspection by the agencies mandated by the state, e.g. TÜV.)

 

[Qcman17]

The tech probably saw it had rotors and so it was in spec and out the door it goes.

Fixed it for you

 

[Tucker80]

Have you checked the underbody by any chance? If that's indeed corrosion, there was something seriously wrong with how the car was stored. Hoping that rest of the car is in better shape than the rotors.

I just checked on the ground with my light and the underbody and everything I could see is very clean and no corrosion whatsoever. I'm going to put it on my lift later and do a full inspection, but from what I can tell so far everything looks great.

 

[Tucker80]

Now the weather is picking up a bit and you have more grip I'd get some serious heat into those brakes and see what's what. I had a rental car that had horrendous steering wheel shuddering underbraking (I guessed either warped discs or pad deposit on the disc) but because they measured correctly the garage said they were fine. Totally the wrong metric to assess brakes.

I'm going to give this a shot this weekend. I'm going to attempt to do the burnishing procedure that was posted, but might have a bit of difficulty with that many hard stops from 80 unless I can find a long clear shot of highway.

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