Rear end project is done!

[DeadSpool]

I snapped/bent my diff bolts and ruined the bushings I had in there. Since it’s winter up here in Alberta I had the time for this little project. Pulled everything, degreased, sand blasted, painted and powder coated. Installed solid diff bushings, subframe bushings, lower control arm and toe link bearings.

She looks pretty good but more importantly it won’t snap again. A bonus is it’s clean, a lot easier to inspect in the pit.

A big thanks to Kelly Aiken for all the help!

BMR Solid Diff Mounts
Kelltrac Big Bertha Bolts
Kelltrac Bushing upgrade kit w/irs lockouts
FRPP Toelink bearing
Steeda verticle links
Iron 8.8 diff case
Torsion diff
3.15 FRPP gears
FRPP Wheel hubs
DSS 1600hp axles
GT350 Springs
Viking Crusader shocks

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[OLD8BA]

lovely work mate well done

 

[WD Pro]

Nice !

I found myself in a similar situation to you (snapped diff bolt) and took a similar route to you (refurb before refitting)

Mine was under warranty so I didn’t get the opportunity to do everything, but Ford worked really well with me and it made a huge difference from where I started

WD

 

[NGOT8R]

Very nice work! That should make the back end perform much better.

 

[VictorH]

Wow, that looks great, almost a shame to install that in the car.

 

[mech94]

Did you have to swap the lower control arms use the gt350 springs?

 

[PC_GUARD]

Awesome work... How much power are you running?

 

[DeadSpool]

Did you have to swap the lower control arms use the gt350 springs?

Nope, direct fit

Awesome work... How much power are you running?

Everything should be in sig if you can expand it. Made 1420rwhp at 28psi.

 

[JustSomeGuy]

How was getting the toe link bearing out/new one in? What tool(s) did you use? Do you think it could be done on the car without pulling out your teeth or would you recommend dropping everything to swap them out?

 

[DeadSpool]

How was getting the toe link bearing out/new one in? What tool(s) did you use? Do you think it could be done on the car without pulling out your teeth or would you recommend dropping everything to swap them out?

My buddy has a 4x4 shop so I just brought him the LCA’s and knuckles to do both bearings. He said they were pretty straightforward with no suprises.

 

[VictorH]

How was getting the toe link bearing out/new one in? What tool(s) did you use? Do you think it could be done on the car without pulling out your teeth or would you recommend dropping everything to swap them out?

I tried to do it in the car. You can remove the toe link bushings without too much trouble, but to get the replacement toe link bushing (perfectly line up and started) in is a bear, while in the car. Some folks have done it, however, it's not that difficult to remove that suspension component and push the new bearing in using a press.

 

[JustSomeGuy]

I tried to do it in the car. You can remove the toe link bushings without too much trouble, but to get the replacement toe link bushing (perfectly line up and started) in is a bear, while in the car. Some folks have done it, however, it's not that difficult to remove that suspension component and push the new bearing in using a press.

If I don’t have a press (or access to one) is it all the same on or off the car, or it is still easier off the car without a press?

 

[JustSomeGuy]

My buddy has a 4x4 shop so I just brought him the LCA’s and knuckles to do both bearings. He said they were pretty straightforward with no suprises.

Brilliant job on the rear end btw

 

[VictorH]

If I don’t have a press (or access to one) is it all the same on or off the car, or it is still easier off the car without a press?

Yes, it's just easier to get everything nice and square, when it's off the car. Honestly, we're talking about an extra 15-20 min (if you're real slow and deliberate, max) per side to remove that component. For some reason whether it's the front tension arm bushing or the rear toe-link bushing Ford uses massive interference fit, probably a lot more than necessary, which is why it's so hard to get those bushings started.

 

[JustSomeGuy]

Yes, it's just easier to get everything nice and square, when it's off the car. Honestly, we're talking about an extra 15-20 min (if you're real slow and deliberate, max) per side to remove that component. For some reason whether it's the front tension arm bushing or the rear toe-link bushing Ford uses massive interference fit, probably a lot more than necessary, which is why it's so hard to get those bushings started.

Gotcha, I’ll be taking them off then. I’ve had the IRS off so many times at this point I was just being lazy but obviously it’s best to just take it off… thanks for the advice and help

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