Rear end project is done!

[DeadSpool]

Is this what you’re inquiring about @WD? If so, I didn’t have to relieve any areas on my diff. for my through bolt kit install.

Steeda did tell me that some machining would be required if I wanted to run a nut on the ends of the through bolts though. I didn’t see it as necessary for my application and it’s been holding up fine for the past 3+ years.

Those are tiny bolts, if your using the Kelltrac Big Bertha bolts you have to grind a couple centimeters off, not much to make the bolt heads sit flat.

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[WD Pro]

Is this what you’re inquiring about @WD? If so, I didn’t have to relieve any areas on my diff. for my through bolt kit install.

Steeda did tell me that some machining would be required if I wanted to run a nut on the ends of the through bolts though. I didn’t see it as necessary for my application and it’s been holding up fine for the past 3+ years.

That's kind of like it, but your bolt thread poking out of the back must still be on M14 ?

Mine can't be M14 anymore (as a result of my failure), so it needs to go to M16 meaning I will either have a M16 flange nut where your bolt protrudes, or more likely (as per @DeadSpool 's) the cap end of an M16.

That means that lump (or part of it) at the side of your stud has to go - hence my question on the best way to do it

Yup, The only pic I have where you can kinda see it is here, zoom in on the ears. Just used a rotary tool with an aluminum burr bit. Took 2mins.

Perfect info thank you I'm considering having mine done on the mill at the same time as the other mods

Those are tiny bolts, if your using the Kelltrac Big Bertha bolts you have to grind a couple centimeters off, not much to make the bolt heads sit flat.

I guess that's still M14 ?

WD

 

[DeadSpool]

That's kind of like it, but your bolt thread poking out of the back must still be on M14 ?

Mine can't be M14 anymore (as a result of my failure), so it needs to go to M16 meaning I will either have a M16 flange nut where your bolt protrudes, or more likely (as per @DeadSpool 's) the cap end of an M16.

That means that lump (or part of it) at the side of your stud has to go - hence my question on the best way to do it



Perfect info thank you I'm considering having mine done on the mill at the same time as the other mods



I guess that's still M14 ?

WD

Haha ya man, these are probably like an M10. lol. Here’s the difference between BMR m14 diff bolts that I bent and snapped

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[NGOT8R]

@WD, I like your style. If I were to do that on mine, I’d also prefer to have it milled down, so that it would be nice and straight. I wouldn’t trust my hand to be steady enough on something like that.

 

[WD Pro]

Haha ya man, these are probably like an M10. lol. Here’s the difference between BMR m14 diff bolts that I bent and snapped

.

Yeah after my failure (fixed by ford) I'm still on M14, but I upgraded to 12.9's and used the stainless sleeves to take out the play in the rear mounts. Ford worked with me so I couldn't go all out on the first fix - they were already very good with diff inserts, subframe inserts, subframe bushes, H pipe etc)

Although it will be overkill for me, I will upgrade to M16 at the time the Torsen and 4:09 gears go in, it's kind of daft for me not to whilst its easy to do.

Note that my failure wasn't from power and traction like you guys are up against, I'm fairly sure mine was caused by poor manufacture, leading to poor assembly, ultimately resulting in the bolt failure (@2.5k on a standard PP GT).

I have loads of pictures (note to cover my arse : of a cover that I found on ebay with an identical failure mode i.e. nothing to do with my warranty claim) to back up my theory, but I didn't want to clutter your thread

WD

 

[Need4SpeedMotors]

I snapped/bent my diff bolts and ruined the bushings I had in there. Since it’s winter up here in Alberta I had the time for this little project. Pulled everything, degreased, sand blasted, painted and powder coated. Installed solid diff bushings, subframe bushings, lower control arm and toe link bearings.

She looks pretty good but more importantly it won’t snap again. A bonus is it’s clean, a lot easier to inspect in the pit.

A big thanks to Kelly Aiken for all the help!

BMR Solid Diff Mounts
Kelltrac Big Bertha Bolts
Kelltrac Bushing upgrade kit w/irs lockouts
FRPP Toelink bearing
Steeda verticle links
Iron 8.8 diff case
Torsion diff
3.15 FRPP gears
FRPP Wheel hubs
DSS 1600hp axles
GT350 Springs
Viking Crusader shocks

Beautiful! A shame it is underneath the car

 

[DeadSpool]

Yeah after my failure (fixed by ford) I'm still on M14, but I upgraded to 12.9's and used the stainless sleeves to take out the play in the rear mounts. Ford worked with me so I couldn't go all out on the first fix - they were already very good with diff inserts, subframe inserts, subframe bushes, H pipe etc)

Although it will be overkill for me, I will upgrade to M16 at the time the Torsen and 4:09 gears go in, it's kind of daft for me not to whilst its easy to do.

Note that my failure wasn't from power and traction like you guys are up against, I'm fairly sure mine was caused by poor manufacture, leading to poor assembly, ultimately resulting in the bolt failure (@2.5k on a standard PP GT).

I have loads of pictures (note to cover my arse : of a cover that I found on ebay with an identical failure mode i.e. nothing to do with my warranty claim) to back up my theory, but I didn't want to clutter your thread

WD

Oh ok yes, in your case I’m sure you’ll be fine then. Oh btw, the higher the M number is means the smaller diameter it is. M10 is bigger than m12 etc. good ol’ metric

Beautiful! A shame it is underneath the car

Thanks and I agree.

 

[Jjmoberg]

M10 is definitely not bigger than M12. The number is the diameter of the outside of the threads in mm. M8 is under 1/3 of an inch. M14 is over half an inch.

 

[WD Pro]

M10 is definitely not bigger than M12. The number is the diameter of the outside of the threads in mm. M8 is under 1/3 of an inch. M14 is over half an inch.

I thought he was taking the piss

But sometimes my U.K. humour / sarcasm is misinterpreted on here, and vice versa, sometimes I misinterpret how comments should have come across

WD

 

[DeadSpool]

M10 is definitely not bigger than M12. The number is the diameter of the outside of the threads in mm. M8 is under 1/3 of an inch. M14 is over half an inch.

yes I was just messing around. Lol

I thought he was taking the piss

But sometimes my U.K. humour / sarcasm is misinterpreted on here, and vice versa, sometimes I misinterpret how comments should have come across

WD

you got it! lol

 

[Jjmoberg]

LOL. I suck!

 

[WD Pro]

@DeadSpool - I have a quick question for you if that's OK ?

Did you have to relieve the ears of the diff cover to give a flat area for the through bolt heads ?

If so, how did you do it and did you take any photos that you could share ?

Thanks and best regards,

WD

Yup, The only pic I have where you can kinda see it is here, zoom in on the ears. Just used a rotary tool with an aluminum burr bit. Took 2mins.

If your using the Kelltrac Big Bertha bolts you have to grind a couple centimeters off, not much to make the bolt heads sit flat.

Perfect info thank you I'm considering having mine done on the mill at the same time as the other mods

WD

@WD, I like your style. If I were to do that on mine, I’d also prefer to have it milled down, so that it would be nice and straight. I wouldn’t trust my hand to be steady enough on something like that.

Done, here’s what the right side looks like with a 25.4mm recess (24mm bolt head) :

And the left side :

Note that on my cover, the back of the casting wasn’t perfectly perpendicular to the hole.

WD

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