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Question on Frame damage

Bairdout

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Hello Curious to figure how much this would cost for repair. It's a 2017 mustang GT. I was driving and I heard a loud pop from the back and just keep hearing a clunking noise. SO when I got home I decided to check it out and was shocked to see this below


The other side is good and tight so not sure what I should do now. I know I'll need to contact a body shop on this but what would be the average repair price for this if anyone knows.


Thank you!

image_2021-10-31_141818.webp



thumbnail (2).webp
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ICU812

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I'm willing to bet the other side is on it's way to doing the same thing.
Good luck.
 

luc

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I always wondered if the shock mount can take the extra loading than a coil over create… well, I guess that is an answer….
 

WD Pro

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There is a huge thread on that very issue and those shock mounts.

It’s a touchy topic, so I will steer clear of commenting / fuelling it etc.

Hope you get it fixed up OK :frown:

WD :like:
 
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Bairdout

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There is a huge thread on that very issue and those shock mounts.

It’s a touchy topic, so I will steer clear of commenting / fuelling it etc.

Hope you get it fixed up OK :frown:

WD :like:
Would you have a link to some of these topics so I may do some research on them
 

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StangTime

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Cobra Jet

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I was going to comment about the aftermarket RSM after seeing the OP's images - but as posted above in those (2) linked threads, there's quite a bit of discussion and debates...

This also comes with the territory of modifying a vehicle's suspension components and not knowing what impact those mods will have on the underlying factory components as far as additional stress on materials.

The bigger question is (and it applies to any aftermarket suspension part):
Was the part tested under the same rigorous standards as the component it's being attached to? What was the failure rate of the aftermarket design? What was the failure rate of the underlying component it's attached to? At what stress level was the aftermarket part tested, how was it tested and for how long was it tested?

I don't think any aftermarket suspension components come with any DOT testing and/or approvals.
 

Crowd Hunter

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The responsible companies, like RideTech, have designed their products to beef up this area. Even BMR acknowledged there was an issue and designed a crossmember that mounts inside the trunk and attaches the two shock mounts.
 
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Bairdout

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Update on this,

Yea looks like all the body shops in my area are gonna be a 1month to 2month wait to even look at the car. (not saying if they even weld or try to repair that spot). Two body shops I've gone to now have been trying for me to claim insurance. Most keep saying they'll need to replace the whole panel, but I find it very hard that you can't just weld that area. I have no experience in that, but I've seen people weld them back in with no problem on here. I mean hope I'm somewhat using the right terminology here.


I also want to thank everyone for giving me info on this and helping me decide possibly what I should do with it later. I'm thinking after I get this fixed possibly buying some performance pack suspension and stock shock mounts and putting that on instead.

PS - NVM looks like I was just not able to see them at first. The brackets are still there!!!!!! :(
 
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Crowd Hunter

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This is how BMR dealt with the issue. I feel like they should have warned the people who bought the shock mounts without the crossmember.

rcsk1r_1.492_1.webp
 

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Bairdout

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This is how BMR dealt with the issue. I feel like they should have warned the people who bought the shock mounts without the crossmember.

rcsk1r_1.492_1.jpg
Yea I saw and read about this. Sadly this is how i got the car when I bought it :( I was going to take it to a performance shop in a good week or so but looks like I won't now. I called the shop to see if they fix this kind of stuff and he said no. He did say he'd wish he would have gotten me in soon to put the car up on a lift because he would of told me to remove those shock mounts and put better ones on.
 

Maldelver

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Many welders will not even touch that. It’s not an easy fix due to stress and gauge of metal.
 

Crowd Hunter

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I honestly think I could fix that myself without welding anything. The process would require two pieces of 1/4" steel plate. I would put one on the inside and one on the outside, then bolt them together with 4 bolts, sandwiching the original body of the car between them. Once that was in place, you could tack weld them or just leave them as is, then bolt the shock mount to them with bolts that run all the way through both metal plates. It may not be the most elegant fix in the world, but it would be stronger than the stock setup.

(Of course, welding it would only make it stronger.)
 
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Orange devil

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I honestly think I could fix that myself without welding anything. The process would require two pieces of 1/4" steel plate. I would put one on the inside and one on the outside, then bolt them together with 4 bolts, sandwiching the original body of the car between them. Once that was in place, you could tack weld them or just leave them as is, then bolt the shock mount to them with bolts that run all the way through both metal plates. It may not be the most elegant fix in the world, but it would be stronger than the stock setup.

(Of course, welding it would only make it stronger.)
I wonder how bad does something like this effect the alignment if not fixed perfect?
 

WD Pro

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I wonder how bad does something like this effect the alignment if not fixed perfect?
It’s only holding the top of the damper so even if it was out a little and not perfect, it wouldn’t effect the motion or path that the wheel would travel though :like:

WD :like:
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