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Pricing motor build

esacteksab

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i have sold my 2009 GT-R in favour to finding new platform and Chris(SBD) posts about 2015+ mustang brought me to this forum. Im not looking for a drag car, but for the street car which get you 140-145mph trap on stock drivetrain. New Mustang GT looks ok for that, but now reading your comments i think 2013-14 mustang gt would be even better choice. They have same motor, same tranny, ok maybe they dont look that great from inside our outside, but you still can make them handle good and they have weight advantage.
Chris, dont you think you should start the line of turbo kits for this platform as well? :)))
Put a CPR kit on an 11-14 and be done with it.
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spdbydesign

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2015 has better heads and cams than a 14. It also has stronger rods that hold 100 more hp safely.

The looks are subjective but I like the 11-14 style.
It has cast boss heads basically, so yes, you are starting with better heads.....but you'll need to address at minimum the factory valve springs.....if shooting for over 900whp...roughly. (From what I've seen now in my motor & others)

Sheldon grenaded his factory rods at the 900whp mark, so still think 800whp is the maximum I'd push on a factory motor.

To me 700-750whp on 91/93 octane is the sweet spot.
 

spdbydesign

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i have sold my 2009 GT-R in favour to finding new platform and Chris(SBD) posts about 2015+ mustang brought me to this forum. Im not looking for a drag car, but for the street car which get you 140-145mph trap on stock drivetrain. New Mustang GT looks ok for that, but now reading your comments i think 2013-14 mustang gt would be even better choice. They have same motor, same tranny, ok maybe they dont look that great from inside our outside, but you still can make them handle good and they have weight advantage.
Chris, dont you think you should start the line of turbo kits for this platform as well? :)))
Not a fan of the former chassis. Can't get over the look, which is just personal preference.

The 2015+ interior is much more refined and I find the ride quality to be worlds better.

If I just wanted a drag car, I'd go buy a Foxbody.

But I want an 8 second car with heated/air cooled seats I can cruise on the streets on Saturday night ;)
 

ttbestas

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It has cast boss heads basically, so yes, you are starting with better heads.....but you'll need to address at minimum the factory valve springs.....if shooting for over 900whp...roughly. (From what I've seen now in my motor & others)

Sheldon grenaded his factory rods at the 900whp mark, so still think 800whp is the maximum I'd push on a factory motor.

To me 700-750whp on 91/93 octane is the sweet spot.
I assume you say 800whp on e85, approximatly what trap you would reach with that?
 

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spdbydesign

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800whp would net you mid 140's.

and no, I would run unleaded race gas to hit 800whp, which is my limit for the factory fuel pump + BAP + 1000cc injectors.

I'd leave E85 for the built motor crowd, as you need a further upgraded fuel system, which is a significant cost.

BAP + 1000cc injectors is a $1000 fuel system, which is perfect for those on a budget.
 

tim03cobra

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Mine made 877 on the dyno with e85. On just a regular Friday nite test and tune it ran 9.73@ 143. This was with a 1.4 sixty foot. The track was a little slick because of all the street tires. It will be faster with the same setup on a decently prepped track. I know this because it has cut 1.36 sixty foot times on 17" drag radials during the 10.0 bracket race the week before. Also I run a built motor from Custom Built Motors. They are $2999. We did go through it to make sure it was what it said it was. All checked out so, I've been beating it up since then. Here's the add.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/FORD-MUSTANG-...-1-10-1-11-1-/291499386094?nav=WATCHING_ENDED

I assume you say 800whp on e85, approximatly what trap you would reach with that?
 
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spdbydesign

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Mine made 877 on the dyno with e85. On just a regular Friday nite test and tune it ran 9.73@ 143. This was with a 1.4 sixty foot. The track was a little slick because of all the street tires. It will be faster with the same setup on a decently prepped track. I know this because it has cut 1.36 sixty foot times on 17" drag radials during the 10.0 bracket race the week before.
Tim,

Why sort of dyno? DynoJet, Mustang, etc?
 

cobra199711

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Engine

Mine made 877 on the dyno with e85. On just a regular Friday nite test and tune it ran 9.73@ 143. This was with a 1.4 sixty foot. The track was a little slick because of all the street tires. It will be faster with the same setup on a decently prepped track. I know this because it has cut 1.36 sixty foot times on 17" drag radials during the 10.0 bracket race the week before. Also I run a built motor from Custom Built Motors. They are $2999. We did go through it to make sure it was what it said it was. All checked out so, I've been beating it up since then. Here's the add.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/FORD-MUSTANG-...-1-10-1-11-1-/291499386094?nav=WATCHING_ENDED

That seems like a very good deal... Are u happy with the short block, completely?
 

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tim03cobra

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I'm very happy with the short block. It's holding up very well. I would buy another one from them if I ever needed one again.

That seems like a very good deal... Are u happy with the short block, completely?
 

evo8904

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I'm very happy with the short block. It's holding up very well. I would buy another one from them if I ever needed one again.
Looking at what is included that is a very good price.
 
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doodguy

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Looking at what is included that is a very good price.
What all included? Block, pis tons, I didn't see what type pistons.

Can you educate me on this block?
 

evo8904

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What all included? Block, pis tons, I didn't see what type pistons.

Can you educate me on this block?
For that price, I was honestly expecting crap pistons and other parts lol. I wouldn't hasitate to buy this block at all. I believe that the Ford Racing aluminator uses manley rods too. However, the aluminator uses mahle pistons which, I feel that there are better options like manley pistons. One thing that I would do is ask them to upgrade the rods to Manley pro i-beams. That would be about an additional $800 but those rods are damn near indestructible. Of they swaped the rods for an additional $800 "differencd in cost from the h-beam" then that block is still only $3,800 and I would say stronger than anything else on the market up to $6000.


Short Block Assembly:

Ford block, casting #RFBR3E 6015 HF (with oil squirters provision).
Manley Pistons #598005C8.
Manley Rods #14042.
Ford Boss Crank #fomoco-m-6303-M50B.
Mahle Main Bearing #MS-2292H.
Clevite Rod Bearings #CB-1442 H.
Total Seal Stainless Steel Piston Rings #custom-cs-08.
You choose compression- 9:1, 10:1, 11:1
Great for forced induction
Upgradeable to ARP 2000 bolts and Extreme wrist pin
 

Excelerater

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as someone who has been drag racing for 25 years and built his own motors
in his garage.......
Best advise I could say is never build over a long period of time
Save the money and buy the parts and start building,waiting or paying it down
over a long period of time is not only painful by the time your done you can
be obsolete and better parts came out for the build you are building.

and you can change your mind and end up trying to sell new parts for 50 cents on the dollar which is about what you can expect if you want to go into a new direction

Buy the engine stand ,buy the heads,order up the short block and head to the
machine shop,have that sucker done in 4 months
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