motor build?

[BBW P1X]

Im looking to get a built engine.. my goal is 1100.00 i understand sleeving the block is recommended for 1000hp+ however i'm not trying to spend an absurd amount.. Goal is to sell my stock short block once this engine is finalized. I AM BY NO MEANS AN EXPERT NOR EVEN REMOTELY CLOSE TO UNDERSTANDING ENGINE BUILDING LANGUAGE. I just took information based off of what i see on prebuilt blocks from sellers and just basically broke it down. I'm reusing stock heads.
Are all these parts compatible with eachother?
Will i need major machine work?
Anything im missing?
Is it cheaper just to buy a prebuilt kit without sleeves?
Any help is appreciated, im here to learn as i am very young lol.

gen 2 lock 775.00 https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6010-M504VB
Boss 302 Cranskshaft 385.00 https://www.lethalperformance.com/f...bM3H5EGK4aXOeSJi5UoZz7Y5RBfvYDBxoCBR0QAvD_BwE
Gen 2 ARP Head Studs 359.48 https://www.beefcakeracing.com/arp-256-4301/
Manley Pistons with Wrist pins 969.99 https://www.modularheadshop.com/i-2...um-series-pistons-3-75cc-dome-3-630-bore.html
Rods 1449.00 https://www.modularheadshop.com/i-2...ard-weight-billet-i-beam-connecting-rods.html
Timing chain upgrade 198.95 https://www.lethalperformance.com/c...s7piGHag4V2NnjgOPhzcs9zFTtFXL2xBoCla4QAvD_BwE

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[Jackson1320]

Im looking to get a built engine.. my goal is 1100.00 i understand sleeving the block is recommended for 1000hp+ however i'm not trying to spend an absurd amount.. Goal is to sell my stock short block once this engine is finalized. I AM BY NO MEANS AN EXPERT NOR EVEN REMOTELY CLOSE TO UNDERSTANDING ENGINE BUILDING LANGUAGE. I just took information based off of what i see on prebuilt blocks from sellers and just basically broke it down. I'm reusing stock heads.
Are all these parts compatible with eachother?
Will i need major machine work?
Anything im missing?
Is it cheaper just to buy a prebuilt kit without sleeves?
Any help is appreciated, im here to learn as i am very young lol.

gen 2 lock 775.00 https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6010-M504VB
Boss 302 Cranskshaft 385.00 https://www.lethalperformance.com/f...bM3H5EGK4aXOeSJi5UoZz7Y5RBfvYDBxoCBR0QAvD_BwE
Gen 2 ARP Head Studs 359.48 https://www.beefcakeracing.com/arp-256-4301/
Manley Pistons with Wrist pins 969.99 https://www.modularheadshop.com/i-2...um-series-pistons-3-75cc-dome-3-630-bore.html
Rods 1449.00 https://www.modularheadshop.com/i-2...ard-weight-billet-i-beam-connecting-rods.html
Timing chain upgrade 198.95 https://www.lethalperformance.com/c...s7piGHag4V2NnjgOPhzcs9zFTtFXL2xBoCla4QAvD_BwE

You did not think about shipping cost. It will cost way more. Plus who is building this? you do not need those rods. There’s rods capable of more than you need for just over half that price. You need bearings,tensioners, gaskets, Opg/cs Is this a daily driver car? What do you do with the car. You don’t need sleeves just get the MHS block support kit for $350Ish

 

[BBW P1X]

You did not think about shipping cost. It will cost way more. Plus who is building this? you do not need those rods. There’s rods capable of more than you need for just over half that price. You need bearings,tensioners, gaskets, Opg/cs Is this a daily driver car? What do you do with the car. You don’t need sleeves just get the MHS block support kit for $350Ish

well yeah i understand shipping is going to be a pain in the ass, i have a builder in mind in AZ, haven't spoken with them yet because i just got the idea of building a motor. I was going to keep OPG /CS since i already have that on the car. Its not a daily driver but i do drive it a good bit.. roll racing is what i do as of now, no dig racing yet but looking forward to it

 

[80FoxCoupe]

I agree, the rods are overkill, but roll with it if your budget allows. But i would absolutely recommend getting the block sleeved. Many advantages such as thermal stability, greater resistance to knock and improved ring seal that comes with aftermarket sleeves.

 

[BBW P1X]

I agree, the rods are overkill, but roll with it if your budget allows. But i would absolutely recommend getting the block sleeved. Many advantages such as thermal stability, greater resistance to knock and improved ring seal that comes with aftermarket sleeves.

yeah true, i have always played it safe with reliability because i HATE breaking things and having to wait a whole month or more so im always proactive, as per sleeves, does a shop machine the block enough to fit the sleeves to equal stock bore? I know theres more to it than that but i don't want to also go spending my money like an idiot lol

 

[Jackson1320]

yeah true, i have always played it safe with reliability because i HATE breaking things and having to wait a whole month or more so im always proactive, as per sleeves, does a shop machine the block enough to fit the sleeves to equal stock bore? I know theres more to it than that but i don't want to also go spending my money like an idiot lol

After sleeving they bore to match your pistons of choice. A good machine shop will not bore unless they have pistons in hand

 

[Jackson1320]

I agree, the rods are overkill, but roll with it if your budget allows. But i would absolutely recommend getting the block sleeved. Many advantages such as thermal stability, greater resistance to knock and improved ring seal that comes with aftermarket sleeves.

How is there more thermal stability, knock resistance. Ring seal maybe at high boost high rpm’s, because sleeves are more rigid so I could see that But that is where the supports come in.
do you mind braking down knock resistance and thermal stability

 

[80FoxCoupe]

How is there more thermal stability, knock resistance. Ring seal maybe at high boost high rpm’s, because sleeves are more rigid so I could see that But that is where the supports come in.
do you mind braking down knock resistance and thermal stability

Thicker steel sleeve maintains a more uniform temperature over the length of the bore. Coefficient of friction changes as temperature varies. Which mean it is more thermally stable and will have more uniform wear. Thicker steel sleeve will also maintain concentricity better than oem assembly, therefore promoting better ring seal which equates to more power. The tensile strength of the aftermarket sleeve is also higher than the oem assembly, therefore it has more resistance to the negative effects of detonation as it relates to the cylinder itself.

 

[80FoxCoupe]

You did not think about shipping cost. It will cost way more. Plus who is building this? you do not need those rods. There’s rods capable of more than you need for just over half that price. You need bearings,tensioners, gaskets, Opg/cs Is this a daily driver car? What do you do with the car. You don’t need sleeves just get the MHS block support kit for $350Ish

While i would possibly use the MHS support kit in a situation where sleeves wasn't going to happen, in no way would it compare to sleeves. It is likely that many engine builders wouldn't even use the support kits period.

 

[Jackson1320]

While i would possibly use the MHS support kit in a situation where sleeves wasn't going to happen, in no way would it compare to sleeves. It is likely that many engine builders wouldn't even use the support kits period.

I agree that the cylinder supports are not comparable to sleeves and the sleeves are the better choice above a certain power level. But 800-1100 I have personally never found any problem that a sleeve would have prevented. I don’t agree with the thermal stability. They both will have a lot more heat at the the top of the bore and Thinner cylinders transfer that heat better. Plus the aluminum block backing the stock sleeves is going to remove heat faster than the all steel sleeves. I agree that the thicker stronger sleeves will take more heat/pressure/abuse before deformation. I’m just not sure about the thermal stability. But thank you for your input

 

[80FoxCoupe]

I agree that the cylinder supports are not comparable to sleeves and the sleeves are the better choice above a certain power level. But 800-1100 I have personally never found any problem that a sleeve would have prevented. I don’t agree with the thermal stability. They both will have a lot more heat at the the top of the bore and Thinner cylinders transfer that heat better. Plus the aluminum block backing the stock sleeves is going to remove heat faster than the all steel sleeves. I agree that the thicker stronger sleeves will take more heat/pressure/abuse before deformation. I’m just not sure about the thermal stability. But thank you for your input

Lots of data out there about thermal stability with sleeves, specifically from the GTR world.

 

[Jackson1320]

At what power compared to price do you sleeve the block. Sleeves can be a very expensive upgrade. You can bore a block for $300-$600 (I would not use anyone that was not using torque plates) where sleeves are $2000-$4000 plus the price of the sleeves. So at what point do you decide that sleeves are required?

 

[Jackson1320]

Lots of data out there about thermal stability with sleeves, specifically from the GTR world.

I’m not saying that you are wrong just that I don’t agree. I would read up on it but there is enough benefits other than that to sleeve the block. if you can afford to I would but it’s not cheap

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