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Pricing motor build

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doodguy

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Build your short block you can do it all for 3 grand or so, do piston and rods setup and Install sleeve supports
I can't install sleeve supports myself can I?

WhI checked pistons/rods du you recommend
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turbo50

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I wouldn't sleeve a block unles your going all out, I know several people pushing 1-1100whp with just the supports
 

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The 5.2 and 5.0 race block come factory with reinforced water jacket/sleeve area.
On the after market reinforcement, what shop offers that?
Wondering if for that level of labor a sleeve makes sense.
 

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doodguy

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You can install them yourselfamd it only cost 350
I saw a company doing them on youtube, and they froze the block, then slid the sleeves in the cylinders allowing them to expand as they warmed?

If I go ahead buy pistons and rods, does a machine shop have to drill out the cylinders to ensure the pistons fit perfectly? I've never done this before. I've never pulled a motor before either lol but I'm not really worried about the process. Just doing what I can do, and trying to figure out where special equipment/machinery is needed.
 
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doodguy

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The 5.2 and 5.0 race block come factory with reinforced water jacket/sleeve area.
On the after market reinforcement, what shop offers that?
Wondering if for that level of labor a sleeve makes sense.
Any idea where best pricing for the race block is?
 

Jackie Chan

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buy a cobra jet and save yourself time and money
 

spdbydesign

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From what I have seen if you don't address the cylinder walls on high HP applications you may as well keep the stock rotating assembly. They seem to be about equal in strength
Yeah, I personally find no place for an Aluminator, or even a drop-in rods/pistons combo....knowing the SLEEVES are are the weak link.

It just seems silly to me to discuss $3000 short blocks when you're not addressing the main issue.

We got guys out there making 900whp left & right on these stock motor 15+'s...so why build a short block that could go at the same power levels...just because you didn't' sleeve the block.

I'm 100% in your thinking.

Do it once, do it the right way, and never look back.

It's cheaper than doing it twice or three times, then having a "come to Jesus moment" when you're $10K down the hole...realizing you should have just built it right to begin with.

Now, I'll be the first to say...I'm preaching to myself, because I've been in the same position. Money is tight and I'm pinching pennies to build my car.

But the truth is, that's the last time when you want to be cheaping out on a build, because when it goes boom....and it eventually will....you don't have the funds to rebuild. (And car sits until you do.)

To me, it's a stock engine FI build....or a sleeved short block...no middle ground.

The stock 2015+ engine is strong, so to me, an Aluminator doesn't feel the void it did in the 11-14 market on the weaker internals.

And with the prices they are asking for the 2015+ Aluminators, it's not the deal it was previously either.

If I'm going to the hassle of building an engine, swapping an engine, it better be able to hold 4 digit power reliably. And I don't want to have a concern about the factory sleeves on my "built engine" every time I lay into it WOT @ 900+ whp.
 

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spdbydesign

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I wouldn't sleeve a block unles your going all out, I know several people pushing 1-1100whp with just the supports
We all know that one guy, but that doesn't circumvent the other 500 people that have destroyed a non sleeved engine. (And there is a line out the door of those, but with and without supports.)
 

spdbydesign

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The sleeve supports are interesting, but at the same time, if you talk to ANY engine builder who deals in high volume Coyote builds (MPR, RGR, etc)....they will tell you it's unicorn dust.

I haven't had one single engine builder yet, (respected household names) tell me they hold up any better than a non-sleeved engine with out them.

For every guy that tells me his Aluminator is holding 1100whp no problem (no sleeve supports)....I get guys telling me their home built engines (with sleeve supports) is also holding 1100whp...for example.

But if you actually talk to the guys that are physically sleeving these engines, seeing the failed motors that come in with XYZ former setup, they will tell you the sleeve support motors fail just as commonly as the non-sleeve engines when pushing 4 digit HP.

I looked at this option when I first bought our 2015 to develop, and after spending LOTS of time talking with various engine builders....it was unanimous...anything less than upgraded sleeves was wasting time at the 4 digit mark.

Seeing how much power in stock form these engines are capable of, anything less than 4 digit power goals seemed silly for a built engine and the expenses associated.
 

turbo50

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The guy I buy the sleeve supports from is the same ones rgr sells for 1500 bucks and it's a proven support system I know atleast 6 coyotes that's running over 1000whp and 8 sec pass on the supports with Manley Pistons and h beams and my other friend is running the same supports on a aluminator
 

spdbydesign

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The guy I buy the sleeve supports from is the same ones rgr sells for 1500 bucks and it's a proven support system I know atleast 6 coyotes that's running over 1000whp and 8 sec pass on the supports with Manley Pistons and h beams and my other friend is running the same supports on a aluminator
My stock 2015 made over 1000whp @ ran 9.0 @ 157mph, but guys have already blown them at less power. Just because we did it doesn't mean I'd recommend our customers to attempt this, as I know odds are high many would experience catastrophe.

My point is, I'm not saying the engine won't hold up for a period of time, but for long term reliability I think the consensus of this industries engine builders are that sleeving is the most reliable method for long term durability at the 4 digit level.
 

evo8904

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The guy I buy the sleeve supports from is the same ones rgr sells for 1500 bucks and it's a proven support system I know atleast 6 coyotes that's running over 1000whp and 8 sec pass on the supports with Manley Pistons and h beams and my other friend is running the same supports on a aluminator
Personally, if you are going to spend the money. Why cheap out with h-beam rods? Buck up and get manley pro i-beams. Sleeve it, 2618 alloy pistons and manley pro i-beams.
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