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Pricing motor build

doodguy

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Hey there,

So I think I will want to go shoot for 7s probably 8s in s few years.

I'm thinking of buying an engine stand, aND maybe a block next year, but should I buy a used coyote block have it sleeved and put forged pistons in then swap my heads crank etc? I'm doing research now to find a direction to head. Any guidance is as always appreciated.
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Hellinor

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Hellinor “The younger, faster, and more beautiful”
Hey there,

So I think I will want to go shoot for 7s probably 8s in s few years.

I'm thinking of buying an engine stand, aND maybe a block next year, but should I buy a used coyote block have it sleeved and put forged pistons in then swap my heads crank etc? I'm doing research now to find a direction to head. Any guidance is as always appreciated.
So are you building a drag car? From your signature it looks as if you already have a 10sec street car so whats the need for 7-8s 1/4 mile times? Are you planning on competing?
 
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doodguy

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So are you building a drag car? From your signature it looks as if you already have a 10sec street car so whats the need for 7-8s 1/4 mile times? Are you planning on competing?
No. I just like the power. I wouldn't know where to start as far as competing to be honest.
 

MadCow

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That all depends greatly. What is the planned weight of the vehicle? Running 7s at 2500lbs is a lot different than 4000lbs. What is the suspension? What transmission? But overall a built motor is a good idea for those power levels.
 

FATHERFORD

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Might as well do what I'm doing for my 14. Buy a GT-350 block, get it sleeved with billet main caps.

Spend the money now, and hopefully never again.
 

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MadCow

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Might as well do what I'm doing for my 14. Buy a GT-350 block, get it sleeved with billet main caps.

Spend the money now, and hopefully never again.
Just curious, but was there an advantage going that route over MMRs new billet coyote block? They both sound pretty expensive.
 
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doodguy

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Might as well do what I'm doing for my 14. Buy a GT-350 block, get it sleeved with billet main caps.

Spend the money now, and hopefully never again.
That's the more expensive route isn't it?
 
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doodguy

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Just curious, but was there an advantage going that route over MMRs new billet coyote block? They both sound pretty expensive.
Yeah I eye'ed the MMR block, and $8k for that or aluminator is a bit out of my price range unfortunately.
 
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doodguy

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I think you are seriously discounting what it takes to get a car of this weight into the 7s. Hope you have some deep pockets.

Here is a very good read and great advice from some corvette owners.

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nitrous/3803075-price-to-hit-1500whp-c6z.html
I'm not. It's funny you say that though, as I have considered not modding this car any more, buying an old like 87 body mod the crap out of it. That should enable me to go pretty fast right?
 

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wazslow

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Just curious, but was there an advantage going that route over MMRs new billet coyote block? They both sound pretty expensive.
I'd venture to guess the MMR billet block alone is well over $10k.
 

wazslow

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I'm not. It's funny you say that though, as I have considered not modding this car any more, buying an old like 87 body mod the crap out of it. That should enable me to go pretty fast right?
I had an 89 mustang that I raced. Went 8.17@172mph at 3500lbs. I can promise you it was still very expensive to go that quick. The chassis work and safety equipment alone can be tens of thousands of dollars to do correctly.
 

BMR Tech

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I have considered not modding this car any more, buying an old like 87 body mod the crap out of it. That should enable me to go pretty fast right?
This is what I recommend, what you posted above.

Few things going on here.

1: To go as fast as you are talking about, you will need to ditch that Roush SC and go with a completely new power adder system

2: In conjunction with swapping boost method, you will need to spend well over $10K on engine components to meet your goals, and that is parts cost if you do it yourself. $15K+ to have it done.

3: You will not likely go as fast as you are referring to with the MT82 trans. It has never been done. No offense, I think it could be done, but not with your stipulations and current car.

4: To touch on the above comment - you would be looking at doing an auto swap. Expect big money to do it properly. Then, at that point, you are limited with the 6R80 anyways....so basically, do you want to put a TH400 or PG trans in your nice daily driven Convertible S550 Mustang? :thumbsup:
 

Mike Jesse

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Building the engine for that power is relatively easy.

First stop would be to a competent chassis shop that specializes in building fast door cars. They are not on every street corner.

Then you need to spend x dollars getting your NHRA driving license.
That's not cheap in it's self.

Support equipment. Enclosed car trailer. Truck to pull said trailer.

I've done it, and quite frankly it's a pain in the ass after awhile.

Having a car that runs mid 10's on pump gas is WAY more fun in the long run.
 
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doodguy

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This is what I recommend, what you posted above.

Few things going on here.

1: To go as fast as you are talking about, you will need to ditch that Roush SC and go with a completely new power adder system

2: In conjunction with swapping boost method, you will need to spend well over $10K on engine components to meet your goals, and that is parts cost if you do it yourself. $15K+ to have it done.

3: You will not likely go as fast as you are referring to with the MT82 trans. It has never been done. No offense, I think it could be done, but not with your stipulations and current car.

4: To touch on the above comment - you would be looking at doing an auto swap. Expect big money to do it properly. Then, at that point, you are limited with the 6R80 anyways....so basically, do you want to put a TH400 or PG trans in your nice daily driven Convertible S550 Mustang? :thumbsup:
So how fast can I realistically shoot for that's affordable and won't make my car to an all out race car but will be fun and drivable?
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