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Preparation for HPDE

93calypso

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Anyone attending the January hpde at nasa in Houston? Planning on attending. First time at a track and looking forward to it. So far not planning on doing anything whatsoever other than taping up the rear quarters. After my first time I may get hawk pads (or whoever is making better ones) and changing brake fluid along with tune, intake, exhaust.
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SoFloEco

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Just for frame of reference, my home track is VIR in which the Full Course has two long straights that a mildly modified GT can hit 140 on each straight. It is very hard on brakes whether you are a professional driver or amateur. It is not uncommon to see people boil brakes. It is no fun watching someone leave the track at 100+. I consider brakes more of a safety function than a performance function. Others my disagree with my assessment.
You're a lucky man. I love that track, Ponykix. Had a chance to run it in a HOD event last May and had a blast. The uphill esses, decreasing radius (formerly) Oak Tree turn and that looooong straight make me wish I lived closer. Believe it or not, I ran my 2012 S/C Tacoma X-Runner there - what a hoot.

I'll definitely be running the EcoBoost after I take delivery and a suitable break it in period - probably early summer. Maybe I'll see you there?
 

Ponykix

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SoFloEco

Funny we have a lot in common. I used to run an X-Runner at local Autox events for fun when they first were out.. That truck really surprised a lot people back then. The uphill esses are my favorite part of the track.

I was lucky enough to get picture of my 12 GT coming around Oak Tree with the corner worker waving the checkered flag the last year it was standing. I managed to get a medallion made from the Oak Tree and my wife and kids framed it with the picture. Best fathers day present ever..

Let me know when you are coming up and I try to make that event. I am sure we would have a blast...
 

McCarthy

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If you're planning on taking a 3500lb car to a road course the very first thing you NEED to do before hand is brakes. At the MINIMUM, install a track orientated pad and some Motul RPF660. That's literally to prevent you from losing brakes as you slow down from 120+ mph, and slamming into a barrier at 100+.

Take the car to a few track days you'll quickly realize the number one mod you want it brakes, then wheels/tires, then suspension. 300+ horsepower is PLENTY to keep you occupied.
 

SoFloEco

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SoFloEco

Funny we have a lot in common. I used to run an X-Runner at local Autox events for fun when they first were out.. That truck really surprised a lot people back then. The uphill esses are my favorite part of the track.

I was lucky enough to get picture of my 12 GT coming around Oak Tree with the corner worker waving the checkered flag the last year it was standing. I managed to get a medallion made from the Oak Tree and my wife and kids framed it with the picture. Best fathers day present ever..

Let me know when you are coming up and I try to make that event. I am sure we would have a blast...
Will do, Ponykix. For sure.
 

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SoFloEco

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Hey guys, I'm planning on picking up an EB, manual, EBPP, Recaro Seats after the first of the year and was wondering if you could answer a question for me about the Traction/Stability control on the mustang platform.

I don't intend to spend the $4K for the Premium model, as that package contains lots of stuff I feel are not necessary - HOWEVER - it does have the different driving modes. On the regular model. is there a way to turn off the traction/stability control completely during HPDE or autoX events?
 

Trackaholic

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According to pg. 144 of the manual, the traction control has two components:

Traction control and stability control.

If you press the TC button once, you will turn off traction control but leave stability control on.

If you press the TC button twice, you put the car in sport mode, which leaves both enabled, but with higher limits.

If you press once and hold for more than five seconds, you turn everything off.

You can then press the TC button once to turn everything back on again.

BTW, you should be able to find a link to a PDF version of the manual somewhere around here. That's where I found the above info.

-T
 

SoFloEco

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According to pg. 144 of the manual, the traction control has two components:

Traction control and stability control.

If you press the TC button once, you will turn off traction control but leave stability control on.

If you press the TC button twice, you put the car in sport mode, which leaves both enabled, but with higher limits.

If you press once and hold for more than five seconds, you turn everything off.

You can then press the TC button once to turn everything back on again.

BTW, you should be able to find a link to a PDF version of the manual somewhere around here. That's where I found the above info.

-T
Excellent news. Thank you very much, Trackaholic! I can't wait to get my hands on my Competition Orange 2015 after the new year!
 

Norm Peterson

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:thumbsup:

These cars all have more power than can be applied on a road course, Unless this forum is full of F1 drivers me thinks maintenance throttle is what you are using most of the time...but I only know technical tracks like Lime Rock, maybe on a big course with lot's of space between turns more power could be used and could see the need for brake cooling but I thought HPDE's were intended to find your limit not the cars. :shrug:
Your car has several limits, all of which you will sneak up closer to with seat time. You really, really, really don't want brakes to be your car's most critical limit, i.e. the one you hit first, before bumping up against the next most critical limit.

Lime Rock is one of the tracks I want to run some time . . . and from the track map it looks like there's four places where I'd expect to be at WOT at least briefly, followed by some amount of braking.

300 HP or so can get you to almost 130 down the main straights at either of the NJMP tracks, maybe a bit over that with more seat time than I currently have. They're probably not particularly brake-intensive tracks, but they aren't places for any pad with the word "street" in its category name either.


Norm
 

Tim Hilliard

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Your car has several limits, all of which you will sneak up closer to with seat time. You really, really, really don't want brakes to be your car's most critical limit, i.e. the one you hit first, before bumping up against the next most critical limit.

Lime Rock is one of the tracks I want to run some time . . . and from the track map it looks like there's four places where I'd expect to be at WOT at least briefly, followed by some amount of braking.

300 HP or so can get you to almost 130 down the main straights at either of the NJMP tracks, maybe a bit over that with more seat time than I currently have. They're probably not particularly brake-intensive tracks, but they aren't places for any pad with the word "street" in its category name either.


Norm
Turn one and depending on track configuration No Name Straight are the only heavy braking points at LRP, everything else is just to load the front or rotate the car for turn in. Of course I'll let you know next year when I do it with a car that has 235-265 more HP :D I can't see a beginner needing more than good track pads for as you said an HPDE, if you're using that much brake to require additional cooling in a street car during a short session you are probably over-driving the car IMO, but I'm no expert.
 

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I'm going to try like hell to buy the new GT350. It's not the money it's whether I can find one. Looks like the supply will be tight. Ford claims to have built an awesome track car and I would run it bone stock the first time to see what they really have. As for the GT I might change brake fluid and pads.

I run at Lime Rock and Thompson both in Connecticut. Where do you guys run?

:ford:
 

Tim Hilliard

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I'm going to try like hell to buy the new GT350. It's not the money it's whether I can find one. Looks like the supply will be tight. Ford claims to have built an awesome track car and I would run it bone stock the first time to see what they really have. As for the GT I might change brake fluid and pads.

I run at Lime Rock and Thompson both in Connecticut. Where do you guys run?

:ford:
Have you seen the video of the Palmer, Ma track?
 

McCarthy

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Turn one and depending on track configuration No Name Straight are the only heavy braking points at LRP, everything else is just to load the front or rotate the car for turn in. Of course I'll let you know next year when I do it with a car that has 235-265 more HP :D I can't see a beginner needing more than good track pads for as you said an HPDE, if you're using that much brake to require additional cooling in a street car during a short session you are probably over-driving the car IMO, but I'm no expert.
Fluid is equally as important as pads. Doesn't matter how fade resistant your pads are if you boil the fluid and have a four wheel off at 120mph. If you plan on taking a car to a road course, regardless of skill level, at the very least use a high quality fluid like a Motul RBF600 (RBF660 would be ideal...) and a pad that at the very least is better than factory (HP+, AX6 etc)

An absolute novice HPDE driver will be able to destroy a set of factory brakes in a couple sessions. Nothing to do with over driving the car.
 

Norm Peterson

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I'm going to try like hell to buy the new GT350. It's not the money it's whether I can find one. Looks like the supply will be tight. Ford claims to have built an awesome track car and I would run it bone stock the first time to see what they really have. As for the GT I might change brake fluid and pads.

I run at Lime Rock and Thompson both in Connecticut. Where do you guys run?

:ford:
So far, mostly at the two separate courses at NJMP. Millville, NJ.

I drove out to Mid-Ohio twice during 2014.

I hope to drive Thompson (at least) next year and possibly Lime Rock.


Carbotech does not think that the AX6 compound is enough for cars with over 300 HP or weighing more than 3000 lbs. You may be able to get by with them initially (before you start picking up the pace, provided that you don't brake like you do on the street, and with conscious awareness that they really aren't track pads), but don't ask them to keep up with the steep part of your learning curve for too long.

I started my shopping at XP8's, got heat cracks in them after five events (less than 50% worn) and went up to XP10's. I now have 5 events on the 10's, and depending on what I find when I inspect them next, I may move up to XP12's for the front the next time.


Norm
 
 








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