Preparation for HPDE

[Bossdog]

I am researching purchasng an S550 to set up for HPDE events. Setting up an S550 with PP for the track to extract the most possible out of the S550 without the GT350 package, this is how I see it. let me know what you would add or delete.

2016 GT Coupe with PP package, Recaro seats, $38,000 (a used 2015 would do nicely as well!)

K member Brace $165

IRS "Stop the hop" Package $900
1) IRS Subframe Bushing Support System
2) IRS Subframe Alignment Kit
3) Billet Aluminum Vertical Links
4) IRS Subframe Support Braces
5) Adjustable Rear Toe Links

Brake Duct kit $265
SS Brake lines $265
Carbotech XP12 Track Pads $650
Light weight APEX rims, $1200
Extreme performance Summer tires, $1000

Ford Racing Track suspension package $1300
1) FR Assembled Front Struts and rear shocks M-18000A-M8
2) FR Track Lowering Springs M-5300-Y
3) Track/Performance Pack Upper Strut Mounts
4) FR Jounce Bumper Kit M-5570-B
5) FR Sway Bar Kit M-5490-E
6) Track/Performance Pack rear toe link kit M-5972-M (you can delete Toe Links in the "stop hop" package) -$270
7) Unique press-in toe link to knuckle bearings

Alternatively, If you want the next step up with a coli over package that has a wide range of setting performing well on track and DD, delete the Ford track suspension for the KW V3 coilovers.
1) KW V# coilovers $3,200
2) Maximum Motorsports Camber plates $250
3) Steeda ARB set $450

If you are going to be a hard core tracker, Add CoolTech 4-point roll Bar $1500

Last, if you going to the track, upgrading the sound to a [URL="http://solo-performance.com/axle-back-exhaust-system5-0l-ford-mustang-gt"]Solo axle back exhaust[/URL] is a MUST, so you sound as Bad-Ass as you drive! Add $500

Summary:
Leaving out the light weight wheels (which I could live without initially) and leaving out the roll bar, initial modifications would be $4275.
If you up your game with the KW V3's (Which I had on my Track prepared STi and are totally awesome) the price jumps to $7,145.

Now this doesn't include any Mods to the engine, CIA, Tune, headers or the like. My experience with my past 2 track cars is that I have the most fun with an great suspension setup and additional power is secondary. (especially when you are starting with 435 HP)

Nor does this include any labor, assuming you a good at wrenching.
Of course you don't have to do all of this at one time. If I had to organize Mods by priority:
1) Brake stuff
2) tires
3) Exhaust
4) suspension bracing
5) Coilovers
6) Light weight Wheels


Weigh in on what you would add or delete!

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[Norm Peterson]

I think your tire estimate is a bit low . . . anything wider than about 285/35 will give up some precision on rims that are only 10" wide, and anything much narrower risks not being enough tire for the car's weight.

I honestly think if you're targeting the GT350 in any guise, you need to start with similar wheel widths and tire section widths. Say, 11" wide wheels with 295 or 305 tires. That said, 285/35 Michelin PSS tires on 18x11 wheels can and will generate over 1.2 lateral g's once you've got a little heat in them (but before you overheat them, which is possible).

Note that very few 18" wheels will clear the 15" GT/PP front brakes, so starting with the PP you really need to mostly be looking at 19's.


Norm

 

[Bossdog]

I think your tire estimate is a bit low . . . anything wider than about 285/35 will give up some precision on rims that are only 10" wide, and anything much narrower risks not being enough tire for the car's weight.

I honestly think if you're targeting the GT350 in any guise, you need to start with similar wheel widths and tire section widths. Say, 11" wide wheels with 295 or 305 tires. That said, 285/35 Michelin PSS tires on 18x11 wheels can and will generate over 1.2 lateral g's once you've got a little heat in them (but before you overheat them, which is possible).

Note that very few 18" wheels will clear the 15" GT/PP front brakes, so starting with the PP you really need to mostly be looking at 19's.


Norm

Thanks for your input on wheels and tires. That's good information.

 

[ForTehNguyen]

BMR CB005 pretty much combines the subframe alignment kit, subframe braces, and bushing support system into a single $200 mod

 

[Grintch]

I am researching purchasng an S550 to set up for HPDE events. Setting up an S550 with PP for the track to extract the most possible out of the S550 without the GT350 package, this is how I see it. let me know what you would add or delete.

2016 GT Coupe with PP package, Recaro seats, $38,000 (a used 2015 would do nicely as well!)

K member Brace $165

IRS "Stop the hop" Package $900
1) IRS Subframe Bushing Support System
2) IRS Subframe Alignment Kit
3) Billet Aluminum Vertical Links
4) IRS Subframe Support Braces
5) Adjustable Rear Toe Links

Brake Duct kit $265
SS Brake lines $265
Carbotech XP12 Track Pads $650
Light weight APEX rims, $1200
Extreme performance Summer tires, $1000

Ford Racing Track suspension package $1300
1) FR Assembled Front Struts and rear shocks M-18000A-M8
2) FR Track Lowering Springs M-5300-Y
3) Track/Performance Pack Upper Strut Mounts
4) FR Jounce Bumper Kit M-5570-B
5) FR Sway Bar Kit M-5490-E
6) Track/Performance Pack rear toe link kit M-5972-M (you can delete Toe Links in the "stop hop" package) -$270
7) Unique press-in toe link to knuckle bearings

Alternatively, If you want the next step up with a coli over package that has a wide range of setting performing well on track and DD, delete the Ford track suspension for the KW V3 coilovers.
1) KW V# coilovers $3,200
2) Maximum Motorsports Camber plates $250
3) Steeda ARB set $450

If you are going to be a hard core tracker, Add CoolTech 4-point roll Bar $1500

Last, if you going to the track, upgrading the sound to a [URL="http://solo-performance.com/axle-back-exhaust-system5-0l-ford-mustang-gt"]Solo axle back exhaust[/URL] is a MUST, so you sound as Bad-Ass as you drive! Add $500

Summary:
Leaving out the light weight wheels (which I could live without initially) and leaving out the roll bar, initial modifications would be $4275.
If you up your game with the KW V3's (Which I had on my Track prepared STi and are totally awesome) the price jumps to $7,145.

Now this doesn't include any Mods to the engine, CIA, Tune, headers or the like. My experience with my past 2 track cars is that I have the most fun with an great suspension setup and additional power is secondary. (especially when you are starting with 435 HP)

Nor does this include any labor, assuming you a good at wrenching.
Of course you don't have to do all of this at one time. If I had to organize Mods by priority:
1) Brake stuff
2) tires
3) Exhaust
4) suspension bracing
5) Coilovers
6) Light weight Wheels


Weigh in on what you would add or delete!

Going with aftermarket seats will cut weight and allow a lower seating position with more helmet clearance.

Reports are that the stock brakes hold up well to track use, so I would shift that down a bit on the list.

The stop the hop parts seem to be mainly for the drag strip crowd. Rolling start -> no hop.

So my list would be (in priority order):
Tires
Wheels
Suspension (I would tend to go straight to the coilovers if I planned a lot of track use)
Brakes

Also pay attention to what this may do to your classing if you ever want to do time trials.

 

[apex15stangPP]

What I found was worth the most...
1) Tires!!!! Stock tires delaminated the first day
2) BMR cradle lock out kit
3) BMR Diff cradle bushing
4) Shifter bushing steeda's work fine
5) Front sway bar
6) coilovers

After building and beating my car to death last year, almost 7,000 track miles alone these where the biggest improvments

 

[Bossdog]

What I found was worth the most...
1) Tires!!!! Stock tires delaminated the first day
2) BMR cradle lock out kit
3) BMR Diff cradle bushing
4) Shifter bushing steeda's work fine
5) Front sway bar
6) coilovers

After building and beating my car to death last year, almost 7,000 track miles alone these where the biggest improvments

Real world experience/results, Now that's what we're look'en for!
Great Info!

Was there an increase of HNV ?

 

[kkakonn]

One piece of advice I would like to give those who are starting hpde is to go out and drive the car the way it is. Then modify the car as you go. Sure you can start off and drop a ton of money on a bunch of parts to make the car handle better but I believe progression is the way to go. That way you can really understand how each modification is changing your cars behavior. You really end up appreciating it a lot more too.

Another thing people overlook is safety. Don't overlook certain safety mods just because its too expensive or you'd rather spend the money on other go fast parts. The safety of you and others around you should be a priority

 

[bam2002]

One piece of advice I would like to give those who are starting hpde is to go out and drive the car the way it is. Then modify the car as you go. Sure you can start off and drop a ton of money on a bunch of parts to make the car handle better but I believe progression is the way to go. That way you can really understand how each modification is changing your cars behavior. You really end up appreciating it a lot more too.

Another thing people overlook is safety. Don't overlook certain safety mods just because its too expensive or you'd rather spend the money on other go fast parts. The safety of you and others around you should be a priority

I agree 100%.
I did just this. Ran a PBOC event at Sebring with a GT PP that was 100% stock. I didnt push it so I was not concerned with the Brakes.
After 1 day of 4- 25 min sessions the left front tire outer edge is 1/2 gone. The car defiantly had understeer.

I have another event at Sebring next month. I plan to:
Put on Porterfield/Respestos front pads and change brake fluid.
BTW these pads are 1/2 the price of the Carbon techs and have about 80% of the life.
Put on camber plates. Since I will need to pull the struts to do this I will also install the Roush Coil over kit .
If time and budget allows pick up some Bridgestone 71-R tires on 19x10 wheels on all 4 corners.
Also install the trailer hitch for the track tire trailer.

Then go drive..
After that I have the Trans mounts and Steeda IRS kit to install.

 

[apex15stangPP]

Where did you find these pads? Parts numbers? I agree paying $600 for my Carbotechs did hurt.. Lol

 

[jabrax]

One piece of advice I would like to give those who are starting hpde is to go out and drive the car the way it is. Then modify the car as you go. Sure you can start off and drop a ton of money on a bunch of parts to make the car handle better but I believe progression is the way to go. That way you can really understand how each modification is changing your cars behavior. You really end up appreciating it a lot more too.

Another thing people overlook is safety. Don't overlook certain safety mods just because its too expensive or you'd rather spend the money on other go fast parts. The safety of you and others around you should be a priority

I really wish I had started this way. The winter blues and holiday sales sent me on a buying spree and I haven't done my 1st run yet. I haven't even settled on the most important part yet ... tires :headbonk: I may just do the first run on the oem tires and trash them afterwards. 4k miles with good thread left (considering what they are)

Got a bunch of crap that has really changed the ride of the car and I will never get to do an honest comparison of how each part performs on the track.

I cant wait to get my first track lesson in

 

[strengthrehab]

I plan on hitting Mid Ohio this spring. Only mod is exhaust and I have continental dws06's on wince I picked the car up last week in the snow.

What about a shifter? I'm thinking money better spent on a track day/weekend.

 

[Plimmer]

I'll add to the list, just ran my 15 GT at COTA. Car is base GT with 4 pot brakes.
1. Stock pads won't cut it, change the front AND back pads. I ran XP10 up front and they worked well. Ran stock pads rear and they were ate up after 8 sessions on track. The stock DOT4 brake fluid worked, no fade at all.
2. I ran 5w30, next time I'm going to run 10w40. Oil temps will be in the high end of the gauge, so I don't think the stock 20 weight oil will be adequate. Engine temps got up to 220F, so stock radiator on base model is barely adequate.
3. I ran the stock 235/50 all seasons, they slide around but nothing scary, the car is still very controllable and predictable. I had -2.5 camber front and -1.9 rear and the wear seemed even. In fact the Pirelli's are like riding on rocks, no wear. Pressure was around 38 to 40 psi HOT, and sidewalk wasn't rolling over.
4. Drive with the TC and ASC off. Only time this is helpful is if you use 1st or 2nd, for 3rd upward you be fine, unless you are a pedal masher. Also I think this works the rear brakes less, they got damn hot during sessions.

Otherwise for $30k this is an awesome track toy.

 

[Bossdog]

Where did you find these pads? Parts numbers? I agree paying $600 for my Carbotechs did hurt.. Lol

Two things I like about the Carbotech's

1) the brake dust doesn't eat up your wheels!
2) The Carbotech 1521 street pad is made of a similar compound as the race pads and do not require cleaning off the rotors to swap pads. I drove around town thinking the Screeching of the race pads wouldn't bother me. I couldn't take it!! Its an easy swap and the 1521's are Great Street pads!

If you have ever mixed pad compounds and had it ball up on your rotor during a track day, you'll be very unhappy!

 

[NightmareMoon]

I just did Texas World Speedway in my GT PP in the blue group. Only S550 out there today, except for a California special in the parade laps. End of the main straight was 130+mph for me and average speed over the 2.9x mile course was about 75mph.

Brakes seemed fine (stock pads and Motul 600), but I dont know if TWS is all that hard on the brakes. I wasnt on them as hard as I probably could have been. Definitely some wear on the pads, but nothing extreme. I'll pull them and check for cracks hopefully this weekend.

The PZeros did pretty well considering. I've got about 2.4 camber front and 1.8 rear, which helped. I tried to keep them at or under 38 psi but we had a few sessions the first day where they got up to 40. Fronts were a bit melty, but they survived with more tread than. i expected and the camber really helped keep the fronts off the sidewall. However, the left rear tire is about toast. Pretty much wore the center tread flat while the inside and outside still has tread. TWS can be hard on that left rear for sure. This set has 2 autocross events, 5k miles and now one track weekend.

They held grip pretty well once warmed up, and were pretty consistent throughout the sessions and days. They never felt 'greasy'. We couldnt hang with the GT3, GTR, or Camero Z28, but we ran down a few Z06s and gobbled up a Camero (non Z28) SS with better tires. It was a fun weekend.

I checked the FRPP oil separator after the first day (installed just prior to driving out to the event) and it had already caught some significant oil. I'll empty it and measure it after I get my hands on a turkey baster.

The stock (non Recaro) seats and safety belt were barely adequate. It was hard to keep the belt locked down and when it came loose I was sliding all over in the seats. Thats something I definitely need to address. Before the next event. My instructor was a Mustang guy and I let him drive a session. He had quite a bit of praise for the IRS.

One interesting quirk, after two days and 2-3 tanks of gas a about 5-6mpg, the computer 'learned' that 6mpg was the new normal, and on the highway home (getting 20mpg) declared my half a tank (8gallons of gas) was '50 miles from empty'. Um yeah.

IDK if I'm shopping for a new pair of rear P Zeros or looking to upgrade all 4 to something stickier like RE71Rs. Hmm.

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