Pistons - Please

[olaosunt]

Having a hard time getting forged pistons for my 2019. Want to retain the stock 12:1 CR with a 3.662 bore. Really want the Mahle pistons, which are the ones Ford uses to build their factory Aluminator engines.

I have been trying to get these Mahle's for nearly 2 months. Found some JE's in stock, but are quite a bit higher in cost. Never thought these would be so hard to get.

Any thoughts on the JE's?

@gimmie11s and I both ordered them during last Black Friday sale .
Mine were finally delivered 2/14 if this year and his a little latter .
My builder in Michigan is going to build up a used Gen 3 long block I scored for cheap using them with H tuff rods (will be my second “spare “)

when I swap out my stock motor (still kicking at 900 whp @7300) I plan on rebuilding It to replace the spare I use ..
I was thinking so as to be at least different , JE pistons or Manley (that’s what builder prefers ) for this one . I had considered sleeving/I beams make but my wallet is having second thoughts .

it seems just good rods and pistons are good up to 1200 whp in the Gen 3 coyotes ?
Don’t think my Gen 5 blower has more than that anyway even when I swap to a 10 rib

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[olaosunt]

I have the J&E 2018's in a 5.2. Haven't run it yet. You can get them for less than $700. https://www.vividracing.com/pistons...e-1201-70cc-dome-pistons-set-p-152657250.html

That’s a nice price and similar to what I paid for the Mahle but does not like the J&E Come with rings ?
Got a link to the ones you used in your 5.2?
I am considering them (instead of the stock pistons ) for my last voodoo build with the Gen 2 block (was on fire sale and already had rotating assembly with H rods - specific for the stock pistons )

if I do the the piston “upgrade “ I may also try. A lighter rod than the Manly H beams .

I drove a NA/E85 350 back to back with mine with the whipple and motor with Diamond pistons /Manley H rods and I swear I could tell the NA car with stock motor had a lighter rotating assembly ... or may I was just feeling my cars weight with the whipple and heavy stock tires (NA car had light weight signature speed wheels )
Lol

 

[bauern]

That’s a nice price and similar to what I paid for the Mahle but does not like the J&E Come with rings ?
Got a link to the ones you used in your 5.2?
I am considering them (instead of the stock pistons ) for my last voodoo build with the Gen 2 block (was on fire sale and already had rotating assembly with H rods - specific for the stock pistons )

if I do the the piston “upgrade “ I may also try. A lighter rod than the Manly H beams .

I drove a NA/E85 350 back to back with mine with the whipple and motor with Diamond pistons /Manley H rods and I swear I could tell the NA car with stock motor had a lighter rotating assembly ... or may I was just feeling my cars weight with the whipple and heavy stock tires (NA car had light weight signature speed wheels )
Lol

I bought them from here: https://www.racetep.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=353907, early last year, they were $50 cheaper then. Yes they come with pins and rings. Lethal has them as well for similar price.

 

[Jackson1320]

The Mahle gen3 pistons need .0025 clearance because they are forged 2618 aluminum. The pistons they claim only need .0006 is the forged m142p and the forged 4032 Both are not available for the gen3 to my knowledge. Don’t make your decision Based on ptw clearance because they are all going to need.0025 unless you sleeved it to 3.630 then you can get Mahle 4032 pistons and run .0006
My rod of choice is boostline rods but it those are out of the price range then compstar are a much better rod than Manley imo.

 

[olaosunt]

The Mahle gen3 pistons need .0025 clearance because they are forged 2618 aluminum. The pistons they claim only need .0006 is the forged m142p and the forged 4032 Both are not available for the gen3 to my knowledge. Don’t make your decision Based on ptw clearance because they are all going to need.0025 unless you sleeved it to 3.630 then you can get Mahle 4032 pistons and run .0006
My rod of choice is boostline rods but it those are out of the price range then compstar are a much better rod than Manley imo.

Any thoughts on the Manley 2618 for the Gen 3 ?

they are a lot of builders “go to” RPG included .

My other builder (semi local ) prefers them too and will be using them in another 5.2 short block build with a boss crank .
I think the J&E 5.2 piston is for 3.661 stroke crank(predator /voodoo/Ford racing )
It could still be used with a boss crank but will loses some compression and quench .

 

[olaosunt]

The Mahle gen3 pistons need .0025 clearance because they are forged 2618 aluminum. The pistons they claim only need .0006 is the forged m142p and the forged 4032 Both are not available for the gen3 to my knowledge. Don’t make your decision Based on ptw clearance because they are all going to need.0025 unless you sleeved it to 3.630 then you can get Mahle 4032 pistons and run .0006
My rod of choice is boostline rods but it those are out of the price range then compstar are a much better rod than Manley imo.

Funny you say that about the rods as one of my builders thinks the boost line rods are a “gimmick”.
Not truly an I beam but same cost .He thinks the Manly H tuff rods are a better option if you don’t want to spend the $$$ on an I beam rod .

Below are the parts I first put together for the 5.2 block build but he can do $200 cheaper if he supplies the Manley pistons and H Tuff rods .

 

[Jackson1320]

Funny you say that about the rods as one of my builders thinks the boost line rods are a “gimmick”.
Not truly an I beam but same cost .He thinks the Manly H tuff rods are a better option if you don’t want to spend the $$$ on an I beam rod .

Below are the parts I first put together for the 5.2 block build but he can do $200 cheaper if he supplies the Manley pistons and H Tuff rods .

Boostline rods are not I beam And not H beam they are an A beam rod

 

[Jackson1320]

Funny you say that about the rods as one of my builders thinks the boost line rods are a “gimmick”.
Not truly an I beam but same cost .He thinks the Manly H tuff rods are a better option if you don’t want to spend the $$$ on an I beam rod .

Below are the parts I first put together for the 5.2 block build but he can do $200 cheaper if he supplies the Manley pistons and H Tuff rods .

Only $200 cheaper. The rods are like $400-$500 cheaper alone
What are your power goals?

 

[Jackson1320]

Any thoughts on the Manley 2618 for the Gen 3 ?

they are a lot of builders “go to” RPG included .

My other builder (semi local ) prefers them too and will be using them in another 5.2 short block build with a boss crank .
I think the J&E 5.2 piston is for 3.661 stroke crank(predator /voodoo/Ford racing )
It could still be used with a boss crank but will loses some compression and quench .

Is this a track car or daily driver or?

 

[Jackson1320]

Funny you say that about the rods as one of my builders thinks the boost line rods are a “gimmick”.
Not truly an I beam but same cost .He thinks the Manly H tuff rods are a better option if you don’t want to spend the $$$ on an I beam rod .

Below are the parts I first put together for the 5.2 block build but he can do $200 cheaper if he supplies the Manley pistons and H Tuff rods .

If you are planning to stay around 1000-1200 I would do this

Any thoughts on the Manley 2618 for the Gen 3 ?

they are a lot of builders “go to” RPG included .

My other builder (semi local ) prefers them too and will be using them in another 5.2 short block build with a boss crank .
I think the J&E 5.2 piston is for 3.661 stroke crank(predator /voodoo/Ford racing )
It could still be used with a boss crank but will loses some compression and quench .

I would use mmrs pistons if I was after a 2618 because it has a full skirt to help keep the pistons in line until they warm up and Have excellent pistons stability. They are made by Manley a are available for all bores and all strokes

 

[olaosunt]

Boostline rods are not I beam And not H beam they are an A beam rod

Thanks . I am a novice so always love learning something new.

Only $200 cheaper. The rods are like $400-$500 cheaper alone
What are your power goals?

I also wondered about that . He would be using the Manley pistons which I think a lot more than the Mahle pistons I had in my cart so that may be difference .

Is this a track car or daily driver or?

It’s a “spare “ block for a car that really only gets driven at the drag strip .
Has 15,000 miles on the body in over 5 years . Started of with an On3 TT but has had a 3.2 KB after original block blew up /spun rod .

Current motor is the third after the OEM(hence I keep spares . Lol)
First build was a basic non sleeved Gen 2 block with Manley H rods and pistons . Block ended up cracking in valley .
Second build was MMR 1500 sleeved short block with various head combo . Started of with GT 350 heads then went back to GT heads after blown head gasket . It was still blowing coolant so sent it to builder who diagnosed dropped sleeves .
Fixed it and refreshed before selling as long block.
Current motor has BES sleeved short block .
Ross pistons / H rods . Yes should have got better rods but I had these left over from previous build.
GT 350 heads again with Ford racing cams . Lots of issues with top end since install as had to swap oil restrictors in heads . I had them swappe in some used MMR valve springs (left over from another build but that’s another story ) when the heads came off again and having issues with break up since . Think it’s a spring issue(springs too weak ?)
Car is a street car but it has so much NVH planning to make it into a race car . Already had rear seat delete /corbeau race streets and since not daily driven wont mind cutting it up for a cage .

Goal was run 9’s with the Magnum XL but last time I made a pas was almost 2 years ago .its been a best of 10.0@145 .
After I get the 9 second pass with the Magnum plan is to swap in a TH400 and make it a “race car “ .... for mostly test and tune. Lol

I wanted to have a spare SB but not really interested in sleeving(already dealt with dropped sleeves once ) . Don’t anticipate I will need make more than 1200 to run goal of 8’s .

 

[olaosunt]

If you are planning to stay around 1000-1200 I would do this
I would use mmrs pistons if I was after a 2618 because it has a full skirt to help keep the pistons in line until they warm up and Have excellent pistons stability. They are made by Manley a are available for all bores and all strokes

Don’t mind MMR at all but I would prefer to use a at the very least the H tuff rod in this build .

How do the A beam boost line rods compare to an I beam design ?
Or the Manley H tuff rods which are a step up over the regular H beams ?

 

[Jackson1320]

Thanks . I am a novice so always love learning something new.


I also wondered about that . He would be using the Manley pistons which I think a lot more than the Mahle pistons I had in my cart so that may be difference .


It’s a “spare “ block for a car that really only gets driven at the drag strip .
Has 15,000 miles on the body in over 5 years . Started of with an On3 TT but has had a 3.2 KB after original block blew up /spun rod .

Current motor is the third after the OEM(hence I keep spares . Lol)
First build was a basic non sleeved Gen 2 block with Manley H rods and pistons . Block ended up cracking in valley .
Second build was MMR 1500 sleeved short block with various head combo . Started of with GT 350 heads then went back to GT heads after blown head gasket . It was still blowing coolant so sent it to builder who diagnosed dropped sleeves .
Fixed it and refreshed before selling as long block.
Current motor has BES sleeved short block .
Ross pistons / H rods . Yes should have got better rods but I had these left over from previous build.
GT 350 heads again with Ford racing cams . Lots of issues with top end since install as had to swap oil restrictors in heads . I had them swappe in some used MMR valve springs (left over from another build but that’s another story ) when the heads came off again and having issues with break up since . Think it’s a spring issue(springs too weak ?)
Car is a street car but it has so much NVH planning to make it into a race car . Already had rear seat delete /corbeau race streets and since not daily driven wont mind cutting it up for a cage .

Goal was run 9’s with the Magnum XL but last time I made a pas was almost 2 years ago .its been a best of 10.0@145 .
After I get the 9 second pass with the Magnum plan is to swap in a TH400 and make it a “race car “ .... for mostly test and tune. Lol

I wanted to have a spare SB but not really interested in sleeving(already dealt with dropped sleeves once ) . Don’t anticipate I will need make more than 1200 to run goal of 8’s .

I think 9s are being conservative.

Don’t mind MMR at all but I would prefer to use a at the very least the H tuff rod in this build .

How do the A beam boost line rods compare to an I beam design ?
Or the Manley H tuff rods which are a step up over the regular H beams ?

boostline rods will handle 2000+hp and are light weight like I beam

 

[Jackson1320]

Don’t mind MMR at all but I would prefer to use a at the very least the H tuff rod in this build .

How do the A beam boost line rods compare to an I beam design ?
Or the Manley H tuff rods which are a step up over the regular H beams ?

I don’t recommend mmr engines they seam to do bad work but there parts seam ok.
im currently running Mahle pistons,compstar rods, ford crank, king race bearings on top of rod and standard bearings on bottom. Opposite on the mains, comp cam valve springs no issues

 

[olaosunt]

I think 9s are being conservative.

boostline rods will handle 2000+hp and are light weight like I beam

Goals of 9’s was with the Magnum .High 9’s should have been easy but never got enough seat time and car being constantly down since last 10.03 pass . Car was making high 800’s/low 900’s then . I am no hot shoe and my auto cars run about 1/2 sec faster with same power .


Last time the car made a clean dyno run with the last engine it made just over 1000 whp

So if you are not sleeving the block, boost line rods may be overkill ?

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