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Pistons - Please

Jackson1320

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Goals of 9’s was with the Magnum .High 9’s should have been easy but never got enough seat time and car being constantly down since last 10.03 pass . Car was making high 800’s/low 900’s then . I am no hot shoe and my auto cars run about 1/2 sec faster with same power .


Last time the car made a clean dyno run with the last engine it made just over 1000 whp

So if you are not sleeving the block, boost line rods may be overkill ?
Boostline rods are absolutely overkill but they are light and strong. Compstar are strong as Htuff but lighter molar power adder rods are good but very heavy.
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olaosunt

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Boostline rods are absolutely overkill but they are light and strong. Compstar are strong as Htuff but lighter molar power adder rods are good but very heavy.
It would seem then my original plan to use the boost line /Mahle pistons is a much better deal for for $200 more (than H tuff Rods /Manley pistons).
 
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I should have my Mahle forged pistons in about 2 - 3 weeks. I have pretty consistently read the stock rods are good up to about 1,000 hp.

If I ever FI this motor, I don't plan on ever going over 800.
 

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Jackson1320

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Boostline rods are absolutely overkill but they are light and strong. Compstar are strong as Htuff but lighter molar power adder rods are good but very heavy.
I should have my Mahle forged pistons in about 2 - 3 weeks. I have pretty consistently read the stock rods are good up to about 1,000 hp.

If I ever FI this motor, I don't plan on ever going over 800.
the stock rods are not safe at 1000hp. You will be dancing with the devil. The stock rods have held 1100hp yes but Some have windowed blocks at 600hp. A 800 h.p built is considered the top end of the safe range. Honestly if you have it out I would just upgrade now for piece of mind. If you are stuck on using stock rods then you should use a brand new set, there only $200 new
 
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Looking at the Wiesco K1 rods.
 

Jackson1320

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15EDC593-D8A5-4B01-A7C9-B576E0B48141.webp
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I should have my Mahle forged pistons in about 2 - 3 weeks. I have pretty consistently read the stock rods are good up to about 1,000 hp.

If I ever FI this motor, I don't plan on ever going over 800.
If you use Mahle pistons and stock rods on stock crank
Looking at the Wiesco K1 rods.
k1 was one of the rods I was considering but decided on this. check these out
295E56CC-54D2-4875-9681-2D2BD21B77CE.png
 

Jackson1320

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Looking at the Wiesco K1 rods.
I can’t say about other rods but the compstar’s were balanced to each other almost perfect. They do not need to be balanced ether because the bob weight was same as the factory rods. So if balancing is a factor then then you are money ahead
 

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schmeky

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Do the H-beam rods not clear the oil jets?

Angrey,

I enjoyed that link, very informative.
 
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schmeky

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It would "appear" it's not the rods, it's the pistons. Seems most if not all forged pistons do not require the factory oil squirt jets.

My question is why is it necessary to remove the jets, since the oil jets help remove the heat of combustion and allow the engine to come up to operating temp quicker and more efficiently?

What would it hurt if you kept the oil jets with a forged piston?

From How to Build a Coyote Engine on any Budget:
The factory oil squirters are designed for the factory cast pistons and are not needed with high performance racing pistons, like our JEs[quote/]
 

Jackson1320

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T
It would "appear" it's not the rods, it's the pistons. Seems most if not all forged pistons do not require the factory oil squirt jets.

My question is why is it necessary to remove the jets, since the oil jets help remove the heat of combustion and allow the engine to come up to operating temp quicker and more efficiently?

What would it hurt if you kept the oil jets with a forged piston?

From How to Build a Coyote Engine on any Budget:
forged pistons do not need squirters and almost all aftermarket pistons will hit them.
You don’t want squirters because 1. The oil is better used elsewhere. 2. Oil spraying under the pistons will add weight to the rotating assembly.
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